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The old tensioner is more or less junk compared to the newer design...
I had one fail at a race event and it lost timing and bent all the intake valves, I advise changing it if you have the old one as a preventive maintainence as they can sneak up on you when they are failing
I like to take the cover off. This way you can zip tie the cam gears and release the tensioner after you put it back in before starting the motor back up.
the tensioner comes compressed so its easy to change, the only part that is even slightly challenging is making sure you have a rag behind the old one when you remove it to catch the 2 10mm nuts and waashers as the old one (under pressure) has a tendency to "pop out".... I also prime the tensioner a bit on the starter to get some oil flow to it before I put the VC back on.
Cool. Every time I've dealt with a tensioner and a timing chain or belt, the whole front cover has to be removed. I looked at it last night, and thought, that is TOO simple. There has to be something else too it.
Should I buy it from Nissan, or will aftermarket be ok?
Could someone please give me the part number for this new tensioner as I need to purchase one for my SR18DE engine. It should still be the same part as for the SR20DE correct? Please could use some help here.
With regards to pulling off the guide without getting a new tensioner, I gotta say that I've done tooth jump testing on other motors, (the company I work for makes timing chain systems among other things, and that's the group I used to be in), and what HKSbluebird said was right.
I wish I had thought of this before though, as I had rattling issues, removed the chain guide, and put everything back together, and started the car up. I still had rattling issues afterward, so I'm thinkin that the tensioner needs to be replaced, and it's possible that the chain itself stretched over time.
As far as servicing the timing system, I assume the engine needs to be removed in order to access everything. Is this correct? All the testing I've done on motors at work had them outside of cars, but I don't really no if it's possible to do this job on our cars with the motor in place.
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Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
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So, let me say it in my own words. You're saying that because the old tensioner doesn't have the capability to give the timing chain the correct tension it needs, the only thing holding the chain onto the cams in the correct position is the cams. Well, I don't see how the guide would give the chain any tension. If the tensioner has gone beyond its point of keeping acceptable tension, then the guide giving it any tension at that point is useless, as the function of the guide is not to complement the tensioner.
Like I said, I have a picture of a destroyed guide that'll show you that it's worse to keep it than take it out.
I don't question the use of the new tensioner, as I installed one myself back when I had my '94. Now I just recommend taking the guide out anyway without even getting the tensioner due to the fact that the guide can become one scary object in the valvetrain.
If the chain is to loose the chain will skip teeth with the old tensioner or bad tensioner.
I can prove this to you but you will cry.
Take off your valve cover, take out your tensioner to simulate a bad tensioner, then spin the motor over with your hand via the crank.
I guarantee you will start jumping teeth
If a tensioner goes bad this will happen. Many a people have done this same thhong whil changing cams I have helped tons of people on the phone put their car back on timing as it wouls lock up with th valves hitting the pistons.
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If the chain is to loose the chain will skip teeth with the old tensioner or bad tensioner.
I can prove this to you but you will cry.
Take off your valve cover, take out your tensioner to simulate a bad tensioner, then spin the motor over with your hand via the crank.
I guarantee you will start jumping teeth
If a tensioner goes bad this will happen. Many a people have done this same thhong whil changing cams I have helped tons of people on the phone put their car back on timing as it wouls lock up with th valves hitting the pistons.
How hard is it to put your car back on timing? I drove the car for quite about 60 miles after noticing that the tensioner was really loose. I just got a new tensioner in the mail, and am ready to put it on, but wanna make sure that the chain and cam gears are on time.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=13070-00008
Regarding which tensioner you'll get depending on the year of your car you specify:
I selected 91-94 sentra from Courtesy's site, and they sent me the new tensioner.
Last edited by captainzib : 08-03-2007 at 12:37 PM.