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for this part W/P P/S- Gates k040340, use the k040350, the 340 didnt fit over, it was impossible we pulled hard, the 350 fit nicely and was adjusted with ease.
HHHmmmm..... I used the 340, no problem. did you loosen the power steering adjuster?
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On my 5th SR20 Powered car ... I am an addict .
91 VE-R - Never ending Project
02 Path LE - VQ Powered
Last edited by NeedMore$4SE-R : 07-31-2005 at 01:20 PM.
NeedMore$4SE-R, is that a VE I see? (judging by your post in the VE section).
I read that having the UR pulleys is bad for the 20V VE? Something about motor going out of balance because of no counterweights on the UR pulley. (given that the 20V has um.. 4 counterweights only on the crank, I think?)
NeedMore$4SE-R, is that a VE I see? (judging by your post in the VE section).
I read that having the UR pulleys is bad for the 20V VE? Something about motor going out of balance because of no counterweights on the UR pulley. (given that the 20V has um.. 4 counterweights only on the crank, I think?)
Yes it is the VE , not the 20v VE though.
I have seen a couple VE owners run the 4 pulley set up with no problems. I haven't started mine in a couple months.... still building the car to go around it. I guess we will see if it works; hopefully by the end of this week.
I have this saved on my computer from an old thread:
"The belt # for the belt for SE-Rs without A/C is on the instructions that come with the UR pulleys
It is: Gates K040310 (31 5/8 or 805MM)."
Also have this saved from an old thread:
"The Nissan part # is 11920-77A00TM. This belt is for running just the alternator, no AC, it is 1 rib skinner than the stock belt."
I recently bought a belt from Checker for my '93 SR20DE without A/C with UR 2 piece set = crank & water pump.
Gave them the Gates K040310 number and they cross-referenced it to the brand they carry. It is a 4 rib belt, installed fine, but haven't run the engine yet - waiting for more parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STRATTON
not to dredge up a dead thread. but i cant open that file. so i just want to ask the same question agian just to be sure.
i have ur crank pulley and ur wp pulley and no ac. what belts do i need ??
stratton.
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2K2 SE 6 speed Grey Lustre SE Every option minus navi, black leather, HLSD, Hotshot headers, Cattman Catback, Frankencar WAI, HP autoworks STS, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushings, FSTB, RSB. JIC FLA-1 coilovers, A34 Brakes Hawk HPS pads, 18” Voxx wheels, Toyo 4s, 54,000 original owner miles.
I have this saved on my computer from an old thread:
"The belt # for the belt for SE-Rs without A/C is on the instructions that come with the UR pulleys
It is: Gates K040310 (31 5/8 or 805MM)."
Also have this saved from an old thread:
"The Nissan part # is 11920-77A00TM. This belt is for running just the alternator, no AC, it is 1 rib skinner than the stock belt."
I recently bought a belt from Checker for my '93 SR20DE without A/C with UR 2 piece set = crank & water pump.
Gave them the Gates K040310 number and they cross-referenced it to the brand they carry. It is a 4 rib belt, installed fine, but haven't run the engine yet - waiting for more parts.
I no longer have my AC so I can goto Autozone and ask for the Gates K040310 belt and that will work for me?
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What size belts are used for the 2 pc. UR Water Pump and Crank pullies without Power Steering, but it has A/C?
Thanks,
Alvin
I know that I have to search, but does slow a$$ dial-up count for a search disability? =] Later.
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Alvin Cabigting
TRU SPORT/George&Sons-GU/671
92 Sentra GXE (4DR) SR20DE - SLEEPER PROJECT
91 Sentra XE (2DR) 1.6L - Daily Driver/Gas $aver USPS classifies Guam with the rest of the USA as far as shipping rates go...
Get your friend to get inside the car, make shure the transmission is in REVERSE, parking brake fully up, and step firmly on the brake while you take a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3 to 4 inch extention, and a 27mm socket and try your hardest to break loose the crank bolt. The reason for the transmission being in reverse, parking brake full up, and the depressing on the brake is because the torquing of the crank bolt removal will turn the engine instead of the bolt if left in neutral, or sending the car pushing itself off the jackstands and on top of you ruining you whole day!
can someone tell me the tools i need and what the factory service manual procedure for a auto (99 se-l) are? please if you have done this (2 piece) let me know thank you..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn B
Purple monkey Fritos elbow dishwasher cigarette can-opener!
Acorn lug-wrench carpet vibrator Gatorade?!?
i am about to make that my sig shawn if you will allow it?
hell i did it so if you want me to i can get rid of it but i thought it was hella funny
Found an answer for an auto Z:
Get your friend to get inside the car, make shure the transmission is in REVERSE, parking brake fully up, and step firmly on the brake while you take a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3 to 4 inch extention, and a 27mm socket and try your hardest to break loose the crank bolt. The reason for the transmission being in reverse, parking brake full up, and the depressing on the brake is because the torquing of the crank bolt removal will turn the engine instead of the bolt if left in neutral, or sending the car pushing itself off the jackstands and on top of you ruining you whole day!
Sounds right but does anyone know for sure?
That will work. But so will leaving it in park and using an imact wrench.
The last few posts were about a pulley install on automatics. But thanks for the information.
Some other information that people might find useful is that on my auto 99 G20 with AC (2 pulley set) the belts that I used and that [work] well are CarQest Micro-V K060390 21mm x 1000mm and K040340 1.4mm x 880mm .