HOW TO: Replace wheel stud

nismo91 · 09-09-2004, 05:09 PM

First you need to order new studs. B13 part number: 43222-70T00

Remove your wheel:

Remove caliper. You will need the space circled on this picture to put the new stud.

Turn the steering wheel to whichever way it will give you more space.
(if your working on the passenger side, have the steering wheel rotated all the way to the right.
If your working on the driver side, have the steering wheel rotated all the way to the left.)
Hammer out the old stud or broken stud.

wheel stud out

Place the new stud

Hammer in the new stud from the back, make sure it is straight going in!
I find using an extension to hammer it in gives me a leverage to get it in straight.

All four completed!

All you need to do now is bolt back your caliper and wheels, then your set to go.

NX$paniard · 09-12-2004, 07:55 PM

I prefer removing the hub and using a vice w/ a propane torch and .89cent Autozone studs, but I guess this works too

edit: By the way Nice Fastbrakes Setup Steve

martin_g34 · 10-18-2004, 06:08 PM

Just as a note:

I like to tap the new studs in place and then taking an open ended lug nut and tightening it until the stud is fully seated(until you can't turn the lug nut anymore). This way you prevent the new stud from going in crooked.

disboijoe · 10-18-2004, 07:07 PM

so im guessing if im doing it on the b14...it would be the same too...but im doing it to the rear..which i think will be harder...but it should follow the procedure that explains on this thread right?

Nyc Sr20PowerD · 10-24-2004, 03:45 PM

you dont have to hammer it all the way in if you are using air tools, just get it straight and use a lug nut and gun it on

Jim #98NX · 10-24-2004, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martin_g34

I like to tap the new studs in place and then taking an open ended lug nut and tightening it until the stud is fully seated(until you can't turn the lug nut anymore). This way you prevent the new stud from going in crooked.

We SE-R Cup racers, who've changed many, many studs have found that not fully hammering them in straight can lead to stud failure where you go to tighten it down to seat it and it ends up spinning in the hub.

For that reason I recommend hammering in only. Do not tighten by screwing a lug on.

Ask Rob Cadle- he's had about half a dozen fail like this and he and Phil are getting quite adept at removing a hub-stripped wheel stud.

Peter · 10-24-2004, 06:18 PM

I have a question for those who change them often,
as an alternative to the fairly expensive Nismo studs,
has anyone tried the late 80's pathfinder studs? I've
heard someone claim they fit like a glove, but are a
wee bit longer, which would be ideal for my cheap wheels.

Peter

racer29 · 02-03-2005, 02:39 PM

[To remove a wheel with a stripped lug stud.
Since the lug nut is spinning on the stud, removing the wheel is essential to get at the stud.
Rear
1. Remove the brake caliper bolts
2. Slide the caliper out of the way.
3. Remove the axel nut and pull the wheel, hub, and rotor away.
4. Now various methods can be used to get at the back side of the lug stud. I have tried spot welding the stud and removing the lug nut with limited success. Even the most jammed, cross threaded, stripped lug can be removed by gringing the head of the lug and pushing it through the hub and rotor.
Front
About the same but there isn't room to remove the caliper after unbolting. I remove the brake line (yes, a mess) and remove the whole assembly.

B14Boost · 03-21-2005, 09:23 PM

Also, if you have the raingaurd still on, you slide the new bolt in and get a lug nut that you dont care gets messed up. You screw the lug nut on regularly, then get a wrench to go on the back side of the lug. Hold the back part of the lug in one spot and tighten the lug nut on until it pops all the way thru.

SR20 91 SE-R · 03-31-2005, 06:45 PM

is this the same for doing the rear?

se_nismo · 03-31-2005, 07:16 PM

another option of longer wheel studs would be the H&R wheel studs i got mine cheaper than the nismo studs i just wish i could remember how much

GUAM'S G20 · 04-19-2005, 06:11 AM

question is this the same for the P10 (92 G20)

vince

MaxPwr · 07-14-2005, 03:34 PM

If the rainguard is still on, simply rotate the stud to be replaced to about the 9 o'clock position. There's a little cut-out in the rainguard that will let you remove the stud and install another.

Hammering on a brass drift is easier (and less damaging!) than using a socket extension.

Pretty White · 07-02-2006, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by se_nismo

another option of longer wheel studs would be the H&R wheel studs i got mine cheaper than the nismo studs i just wish i could remember how much

Stay clear from H&R studs......
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=156008

Anyhow, here was my method and a new tool I aquired once my "spacer" tool broke...

I was using a 22mm open ended wrench on a lug nut to "draw in" the bolt ot the hub. You need to do this if you have the dustshield behind it.

After a while my "spacer tool" just broke. Cheap tool set, (Not a Craftsman, damn)

......but look what I aquired...a fancy toolbox accessory now. Now only if I can tac weld these two together....