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Go Back   SR20 Forum > What's New > Technical Information Library



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Old 02-28-2005, 12:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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It's not hard at all, but I assure you, a 10 minute job would not be done right.
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Old 02-28-2005, 03:09 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I have trouble finding that extension-cord box.
Where did you get it?? Home Depot??
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Old 02-28-2005, 06:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Harbor Freight Tools for $3.
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Old 09-24-2005, 10:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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i just wanted to ask.
what's the name/specs of the tool needed to remove the kickplate?
i'm referring to the screw on the kickplate that looks similar to a hex head.
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Old 09-25-2005, 12:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure they're just held in with phillips head plastic screws.
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Old 09-25-2005, 05:03 AM   #26 (permalink)
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i'm talkin' 'bout the long kick panel along the door jamb which the seat belt lines up with. it's the kick panel that you hide the amp wire under and the one that stretches along side your seat.
i swear mine has a hex looking head that looks like this: * *

is it just my car?
i went to try to remove it thinkin' it would just be phillips like my 240, but no.
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Old 09-25-2005, 06:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crispmofo
i'm talkin' 'bout the long kick panel along the door jamb which the seat belt lines up with. it's the kick panel that you hide the amp wire under and the one that stretches along side your seat.
i swear mine has a hex looking head that looks like this: * *

is it just my car?
i went to try to remove it thinkin' it would just be phillips like my 240, but no.
Your answer is Torx.
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:26 PM   #28 (permalink)
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thanks buddy..
i went out and bought a torx set and the size i needed was a T-40.
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Old 10-23-2005, 03:47 AM   #30 (permalink)
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that's a clean ass install dude. u think u can let me get the routines for the tray and the bracket? i want to make my own now.
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Old 10-23-2005, 01:05 PM   #32 (permalink)
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ah i thought u made em yourself..
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Old 10-23-2005, 01:38 PM   #33 (permalink)
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You need that heavy wire because you are going to lose voltage stretching it that far.
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:31 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L
Wire choice IMO is very important. As you can see, I have the battery grounded 4X. For the main wire, 4AWG is not sufficient, you will lose voltage and most likely power b/c the alternator has to work harder. 2AWG is good for our cars. 1/O like I have might seem like much, but I know I have no voltage loss across the band. The battery charges more efficiently, the alternator doesn't work as hard, the electrical systems perform better.
You are very correct. Running 12DC on braided wire that far is definitely going to require the 1/0

Last edited by FarmBoss : 10-23-2005 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:12 PM   #36 (permalink)
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The battery tray can be found at speedway motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm
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Old 10-23-2005, 09:59 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Very nice write up!!
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Uh i believe your contridicting yourself. B13's are highport motors unless a lowport was swapped in.
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