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i just wanted to ask.
what's the name/specs of the tool needed to remove the kickplate?
i'm referring to the screw on the kickplate that looks similar to a hex head.
i'm talkin' 'bout the long kick panel along the door jamb which the seat belt lines up with. it's the kick panel that you hide the amp wire under and the one that stretches along side your seat.
i swear mine has a hex looking head that looks like this: * *
is it just my car?
i went to try to remove it thinkin' it would just be phillips like my 240, but no.
i'm talkin' 'bout the long kick panel along the door jamb which the seat belt lines up with. it's the kick panel that you hide the amp wire under and the one that stretches along side your seat.
i swear mine has a hex looking head that looks like this: * *
is it just my car?
i went to try to remove it thinkin' it would just be phillips like my 240, but no.
Your answer is Torx.
__________________ Enjoying the Ridesince 1993
Two Classic SE-Rs, Twice the money-pit
Wire choice IMO is very important. As you can see, I have the battery grounded 4X. For the main wire, 4AWG is not sufficient, you will lose voltage and most likely power b/c the alternator has to work harder. 2AWG is good for our cars. 1/O like I have might seem like much, but I know I have no voltage loss across the band. The battery charges more efficiently, the alternator doesn't work as hard, the electrical systems perform better.
You are very correct. Running 12DC on braided wire that far is definitely going to require the 1/0