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Removing your steering knuckle from the strut already puts your alignment out of whak, you should get an alignment anyway. You could also mark where the strut bolts were with some whiteout or a chalk pencil.
Not really. Camber isn't "officially" adjustable, and unless you have the holes strut sloted you're not going to see a significant amount of camber change.
id like to add something kind of obvious but maybe helpful
if you do not have a impact wrench you must break lose the axle nut before taking the tire off and jacking the car up i tried with the car up with the breaks on and in gear and the shaft still turned
also you might regret it if you dissasemble the cv joint it can be a real bitch as i just learned i almost considered buying a new one if they sold it by itself but i got it after 2 hours
If you're brakes can't muster up the 200+ or so foot pounds of torque it needs to break the axle nut loose you have a problem with you're brakes. I forgot to loosen it while it was on the ground the other day, and I just had my friend step on teh brakes. I was ableto jump up and down on the breaker bar without it turning.
Reasembling the joint is a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, its really very simple.
1. the axles will NOT fall out of the tranny, unless you remove the 3 bolts on the passenger side axle bracket, or pull like hell on the driver side one. so you really dont need to worry that they will fall out.
2. you definatly do NOT need to remove the caliper, all you have to do is remove the 2 nuts/bolts from the strut and swing the hub down to slide the axle out.
just FYI
I want them to fall out of the tranny cause I'm completely replacing both axles. If I remove those three bolts, is there anything else that I have to worry about, or do I just undo those bolts and the axles slide out or what? Sorry, this may be a stupid question, but I'm getting pretty anxious with this.
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I want them to fall out of the tranny cause I'm completely replacing both axles. If I remove those three bolts, is there anything else that I have to worry about, or do I just undo those bolts and the axles slide out or what? Sorry, this may be a stupid question, but I'm getting pretty anxious with this.
Those three bolts he's refering to are only on the passenger side. You of course have to undue all the other stuff thats in my directions (strut, axle nut, etc.). Once all that is off, yes, it should just pull out. Some people (cough greg cough cough) have had one hell of a time getting it out. Just rotate it some and pull, hopefully it will come out easy.
are these the three bolts that are arranged like a triangle, and alligned parallel to the axle? I undid those bolts. This bish isn't coming out. I'm frustrated beyond belief, and this is just the pass side. I'm told the driver side is worse.
Sometimes the axle will get stuck in that mount, sometimes it just comes right out. If it's stuck, use a prybar to get it out. If that doesn't work, I *think* you can unbolt the whole bracket from the back of the engine, but I don't recall if there's enough room to do it with the axle still on it.
I assume you already have the axle out of the wheel hub, right?
4 bolts? I only took out 3. And I eventually removed the driver side axle. But cause I'm so smart, and by that I mean S-M-R-T, I managed to damage the threads on the end of the axle were you put the wheel hub lug. This is why lifetime warranties are awesome people.
4 bolts? I only took out 3. And I eventually removed the driver side axle. But cause I'm so smart, and by that I mean S-M-R-T, I managed to damage the threads on the end of the axle were you put the wheel hub lug. This is why lifetime warranties are awesome people.
There's only 3 bolts on the axle to the carrier, not 4. And if you damaged the threads on the end of the axle by wacking on it with a hammer, you should have left the nut on and hit that!
There's only 3 bolts on the axle to the carrier, not 4. And if you damaged the threads on the end of the axle by wacking on it with a hammer, you should have left the nut on and hit that!
C
Passenger side has been completed, and I'm getting a new driver side under warranty.
So, what was the problem, and how did you fix it?
C
After removing those three bolts, the thing they were holding together needed to be gently hit with a hammer so that I could squeeze a screwdriver in there and pry them apart. Also, anyone know the part number for the oil seal on the driver side of the tranny? I need to know this cause the nearest nissan dealer to my school is 30 miles away, I want a part number in advance so I can call em up and be sure they have it.
Yes, I believe you have to remove the axle. This means you should also replace the seal. You can look here for some info: http://www.se-r.net/transaxle_clutch/chang_cv_boot.html Ignore the part about seperating the ball joints and tie rods. Just remove the strut like I did.
-Mike
if you don't want to take your car to an alighnment shop after you do this its better to take the ball joint and sway bar off.
i've got eccentric bolts and anybody with aftermarket suspension should also. just hit the lower control arm with a hammer and the ball joint falls right out. no $75 alignment job needed.
and besides any change in camber is too much. camber also affects toe on our cars... fyi
if you do not have a impact wrench you must break lose the axle nut before taking the tire off and jacking the car up
You can actually loosen the axle nut with the car up in the air. Just stick a large diameter screwdriver thru the center of the caliper into one of the vent holes on your brake disk. It will hold well enough to let you use a breaker bar to get the axle nut loose.
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Tim Rogers
'93 NX2K- Sapphire Blue, HS Gen 4, JWT S3's, Ported & Polished, P/R CAI, JUN Flywheel, Coil-over / AGXs, 15X7 RPO-2's, 205/50/15's.
'91 NX2K- Black, parts car
'92 NX2K- All out SCCA Improved Touring A race car.
Yes, it's Greg Amy's former car.
And yes, I've broken it...
You can actually loosen the axle nut with the car up in the air. Just stick a large diameter screwdriver thru the center of the caliper into one of the vent holes on your brake disk. It will hold well enough to let you use a breaker bar to get the axle nut loose.
