A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
I just beat mine with a hammer, the joint pops off the shaft.
Yep, that part's easy. Getting it back on and over the circlip can be a real PITA. The last one we did took hours of banging and rearranging of that damn circlip. If anyone has a better method, I'd love to hear it. Some rebuilds have gone smooth at this step, but the last one SUCKED!
Yep, that part's easy. Getting it back on and over the circlip can be a real PITA. The last one we did took hours of banging and rearranging of that damn circlip. If anyone has a better method, I'd love to hear it. Some rebuilds have gone smooth at this step, but the last one SUCKED!
Use some grease to locate the clip in the middlie, line up the joint perfectly with the splines, give it a couple good wacks with a brass hammer!
Last edited by SENTRASER : 02-05-2006 at 12:59 PM.
Use some grease to locate the clip in the middlie, line up the joint perfectly with the splines, give it a couple good wacks with a brass hammer!
Yep, that's what we do. It's not brass, but it's a deadblow, non-marring hammer. Very solid. Still, it took hours to get this last one on. I've done it before, but this one was a beatch.
I'd like to add 3 points to this:
1. I'd suggest getting 2 new axle nuts ahead of time because the hitting of them with the BFH could distort them and they may be very difficult (or impossible) to put back on. As me how I know and how impossible it was on a Sunday to get replacements and how long it took me to file the distorted sides down in order to "true" it so I could get the nuts back on
2. I was able to clean the outer joint without taking it apart. I took one side completly apart and had one heck of a job putting it back together. I marked the inner race and each bearing but all markings came off when I cleaned them and the ball bearings got mixed up. In fact, I must admit I felt uncomfortable that I installed the inner race incorrectly. I took it apart after assembly and had in fact put the inner race in backwards. I spent a lot of wasted time and aggravation because of this. When I got around to the other side, I cleaned out as much of the old grease as I could without disassembly, sprayed it with Gunk, hosed if out (repeat until clean), air dryed it, and then poured hot soapy water in it, and compressor air dried it again-then put the CV joint grease in it. Worked out excellant, completed it MUCH quicker than a complete disassembly and had no worry that I might have put something back incorrectly. But by doing this you won't be able to visually inspect either the bearings or where they roll. I knew mine were OK so it didn't matter to me - I just was replacing old boots. And finally.
3. It would also be a good idea to have a couple extra circleclips on hand - you will get extras in your boot kit but I busted 2 when putting the outer joint back onto the axle. It just gave me a bad a** time and they just didn't want to go back on.
__________________
'91 SE-R, Original owner, PowerSlots, Axxis MM, Magnacore, Michelins, Autolite APP3924's , Stromung cat-back and 80K orig miles. Spring '06 work: GR2's and boots with orig. springs, ball joints, TR ends - inner and outer, ES front CA bushings, CV joint rebuild.
Last edited by lowmileage : 05-10-2006 at 05:35 PM.
:Sold
(I hate females drivers) :Sold
