A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
Hey
Just wondering is there anything that needs,or should be done on a frequent basis, or anything that is common upkeep, that is different from running an NA car? Anything to keep my car happy, healthy.
I thank you and my car thanks you.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by sr20boston
...There will be another SR20 Forum, run by someone else, some day...
oil changes should be religious. always use synthetic and change it once every 3 months or 3000 miles. use 10w-30 or 15w-50 depending on temp. when cold (less than 50*) use 10w-30, when warm use 15w-50. many turbo cars use a little oil, so check it every time you fill up on gas. check your tire pressure while youre waiting too.
spark plugs and fuel filter should be replaced twice as often as prescribed by nissan.
maintain your cooling system. make sure there are no bubbles in it. boosting isnt fun with a blown headgasket.
clean that airfilter and check for damage, etc, often. FOD (foreign object damage) on compressors is expensive.
pressure test it often. youre losing honda killing hp if all your boost is pissed away. check my "how to make a pressure tester" thread in this section. fix any audible leaks. hose clamps that are not parallel with the pipe tend to leak. make sure all pipe ends are bead rolled. it is embarrassing to pop a connector loose.
this is the @#$%^& Technical Information Library Forum. It is supposed to be used as a LIBRARY of Tech info so people do not try to find Tech Info scattered around forums and threads.
DO NOT EVER post HERE if you are trying to sell anything, even if it would "help" someone in this forum/thread. As a matter of fact, if you have something for sale post in the relevant CLASSIFIEDS forum.
Your post will stay here for 2 days so you can see this reply. Then it will by junked.
By the time you can hear the top end rattling, it's already beginning to be too late; you've started to wear away the cams, etc.
It's just a wee little bit, but, if it happens on a regular basis, then, well, one day you'll be bowing before all that is AAA Towing Service.
///H
__________________
...another thread invasion from Harry, who came back and noticed that everything was suddenly fcuking different. What happened?
Not on the forum much lately since neck injury - we'll be back at it soon, babying the n00bies.
JWT S4, HS 6, Home Depot Intake, Hypercoil 2s w/ KYB "GR-Poo", CF Sunroof Delete panel, and other crap - where's my interior?
Are you sure about that oil change rockwood, i just fill mine when I can hear the top end.
wow, you dont know ANYTHING about cars, do you? Running a turbo car without oil can potentially damage the turbo in a split second of oil starvation...thats an expensive mistake. I always recommend using Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30(i live in CA) AND i usually change mine at 2000-2500 miles just for the added security. the oil isnt THAT expensive anyway. With that said, checking oil levels should become a weekly habit. Keeping the car running good will make the car treat you right..always check spark plugs for abnormal wear, check the gap on them every once in a while and use the correct heat range for the application.
__________________
Uzi on the nightstand, I'm the man you go to war with
Not a man you go to war against, patience, I'll get you
If that means I can't sleep a WHOLE YEAR, I'ma get you
hey just jokin with the rockwood, I ran my STOCK engine with exception of lower end with turbo (no intercooler) and stop a 222,000 miles to put a little more powerfull engine in and now up and running..........
I have been turbo since November, the oil was changed 300 miles or so before the install. So, I have about 1000 miles or so before the 3000 mile mark. I have in there now conventional 5w-30 (Valvoline). The JDM DE I have has between 80 and 100k on it by now.
I had planned to stay with the conventional oil and change the oil not a mile above 3000. I had also planned on doing some roadcoarse laps in the future, when a new track that is being built near me gets finished. I propose to change my oil out to a Valvoline racing conventional oil right before I go to the track, then change it back to the 5w-30 when I go home. There was a time when I had considered using a synthetic blend, since it is not much more in price than conventional. But what are the benefits of the blend vs. conventional? How many of the benefits of full synthetic are shared with the blend? I would like to know these things.
Im hesitant to go to full synthetic because I am afraid that it will clean up too much around the seals and start oil leaks. From what I understand, oil is oil, and the real advantage of full synthetic is longer change intervals. Also, my team leader at work, who races, told me that he switched from Amsoil in his race car to conventional because the synthetic was thinner and caused temps. to go up. He advised me to stay with the conventional.
Does this plan sound good? Or should I just go with the synthetic blend/full synthetic? In the meantime, I am going to do another Blackstone analysis. I cant remember whether or not they advise on which type of oil to use. The last time I had one done when I was NA, I had some minor gas contamination, that was the only issue. Honestly right now, I am smelling gas in the oil when I check the dipstick. But that is another thread I suppose.
I have been turbo since November, the oil was changed 300 miles or so before the install. So, I have about 1000 miles or so before the 3000 mile mark. I have in there now conventional 5w-30 (Valvoline). The JDM DE I have has between 80 and 100k on it by now.
I had planned to stay with the conventional oil and change the oil not a mile above 3000. I had also planned on doing some roadcoarse laps in the future, when a new track that is being built near me gets finished. I propose to change my oil out to a Valvoline racing conventional oil right before I go to the track, then change it back to the 5w-30 when I go home. There was a time when I had considered using a synthetic blend, since it is not much more in price than conventional. But what are the benefits of the blend vs. conventional? How many of the benefits of full synthetic are shared with the blend? I would like to know these things.
Im hesitant to go to full synthetic because I am afraid that it will clean up too much around the seals and start oil leaks. From what I understand, oil is oil, and the real advantage of full synthetic is longer change intervals. Also, my team leader at work, who races, told me that he switched from Amsoil in his race car to conventional because the synthetic was thinner and caused temps. to go up. He advised me to stay with the conventional.
Does this plan sound good? Or should I just go with the synthetic blend/full synthetic? In the meantime, I am going to do another Blackstone analysis. I cant remember whether or not they advise on which type of oil to use. The last time I had one done when I was NA, I had some minor gas contamination, that was the only issue. Honestly right now, I am smelling gas in the oil when I check the dipstick. But that is another thread I suppose.
not the best place for this post about oil. you might check out theoilguy.com for this if you don't like searching this forum about oil. The general rule of thumb i found on the forum from reading what others have already covered, is if you see red line a few times a week go with syn.
good luck
do most people run synthetic oil for there turbos???
will it really make that much of a difference as compared to a good name brand oil that is changed regularly???
__________________
Boost in Progress GA16DE 1992 NX 1600
hey just jokin with the rockwood, I ran my STOCK engine with exception of lower end with turbo (no intercooler) and stop a 222,000 miles to put a little more powerfull engine in and now up and running..........
Why is it that I don't understand this statement?
Top end... bottom end... wtf does that have to do with oil changes? Do it every 3K/3mo with synthetic... how complicated is that...
i have a w11 avenvir motor, what should i gap the spark plugs
Im not going to tell you to search, cause Im not that much of an OG on this forum.....so I'll give you a straight answer. You are asking because you are concerned about spark blow out I assume. Depends on the boost level you are running and turbo, along with some other things like the condition of your wires and cap/rotor. Assuming that you are running a T25 at stock boost, I would run NGK BKR6E's or 7E's with a gap of no more than .030". If you have an upgraded coil you may be able to get away with slightly more of a gap.
i agree oil is very relevant, maybe i was wrong but it was a very specific question about a way not to use synthetic oil, and some oil problems not as much related to the orginal topic of simple basic upkeep stuff. what ever though i don't care
another thing that i have found that is important to turbo cars would be turbo cool down. if you have been driving in boost and go to park your car before you turn it off make sure you let it idle for about a minute to allow for oil and water to cool down the turbo. this will help your turbo last longer
I have been turbo since November, the oil was changed 300 miles or so before the install. So, I have about 1000 miles or so before the 3000 mile mark. I have in there now conventional 5w-30 (Valvoline). The JDM DE I have has between 80 and 100k on it by now.
I had planned to stay with the conventional oil and change the oil not a mile above 3000. I had also planned on doing some roadcoarse laps in the future, when a new track that is being built near me gets finished. I propose to change my oil out to a Valvoline racing conventional oil right before I go to the track, then change it back to the 5w-30 when I go home. There was a time when I had considered using a synthetic blend, since it is not much more in price than conventional. But what are the benefits of the blend vs. conventional? How many of the benefits of full synthetic are shared with the blend? I would like to know these things.
Im hesitant to go to full synthetic because I am afraid that it will clean up too much around the seals and start oil leaks. From what I understand, oil is oil, and the real advantage of full synthetic is longer change intervals. Also, my team leader at work, who races, told me that he switched from Amsoil in his race car to conventional because the synthetic was thinner and caused temps. to go up. He advised me to stay with the conventional.
Does this plan sound good? Or should I just go with the synthetic blend/full synthetic? In the meantime, I am going to do another Blackstone analysis. I cant remember whether or not they advise on which type of oil to use. The last time I had one done when I was NA, I had some minor gas contamination, that was the only issue. Honestly right now, I am smelling gas in the oil when I check the dipstick. But that is another thread I suppose.
castor based oils molecules break down when in the valleys of cross hatches. theyre chopped up and dont regain their integrity.
