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I have a 95 b14 gtir swapped in and i just got it running a while ago. I bought a fpr converter from nismo001 and a gauge. i set my fuel pressure multiple places between 36 and 42 psi. none of which ran very good and smokes a lot. also when i unplug the MAF the car shuts off...maybe reground?..whats the signal that should be read from the MAF?
After every time i changed the fuel pressure i would clean the plugs and after i ran the car for under a minute, the plugs would get black again. the plugs are the ones that came with the gtir, the cap and rotor are new nissan. i have narrowed it down but i have no real way to tell.
#1 When i am at idle, i have no vacuum but when the car will actually boost it shoots up to 10 psi...anyone have a vacuum diagram?
#2 Possible boost leaks i have to check
#3 leaky injectors?....how do i know if they are seated correctly?
my setup:
accel plug wires
cobra MAF
JWT ECU
s3 cams
top mount
gtir resistor pack
any help is greatly appreciated. i want to drive this car damnit.
1st please put the pressure to 44psi since that is stock jwt 3bar psi. Second mabye you should go get some Bk7re's thats what i run in my 95 ser w/ a Gti-R. Let me know if that helps out a little.
Adam
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Rocking the old Gti-R motor now!
i set the pressure to 44 psi and plugged all the vacuum hoses in the right place. still sooting up all the plugs and i do have the ngks in there. would crappy plugs really be the culprit? or the combination of boost leaks and bad plugs?
also where will i get the best vacuum reading from? because i am still getting 0 vacuum at idle.
jwt ecus like to run rich and with the cobra maf it mioght run even richer...I never try 2 tune a car with out a wideband o2 on it get one or go have it tuned sounds like your running crazy rich...if the car smokes like crazy you might just be dumping fuel in it.thats what mine does when I turn the fuel up to much..
you have to get the vacuum reading from the black box on the back of the intake manifold. the plenum is not under vacuum because of the ITB's. also, recheck your o2 sensor wiring, the gtir pin out and the de pinouts are slightly different with the o2 sensors.
As previously stated, I has the same exact ecu/maf setup for the gtir. The O2 wont make it soot up like you mentioned...you can even run it w/o the O2 and it stil wouldnt be like that. For it to soot up and foul out the plugs means the ecu is running massively rich. The only way you can fix that is lean it out through fuel pressure for now. As you drive the car more, the ecu will learn how to compensate eventually. It took mine just about 1 month before it was better and can run with the Safc zeroed out. It sounds weird but driving short distances was horrible. If I even stalled the car would take forever before it could start, or I had to clean the plugs then it would start again.
Playing around with the TPS, gapping the plugs, changing the wires should help a bit. Also, what type of S3 cams are you running??? Is it the S3M??? Also, timing, what is it set to?
i bought the engine with the "s3 cams installed". through my research i saw that there was a off chance that they may have been installed wrong and for this maybe to cause the problem? but i am working on it today and i plan to check for boost leaks, buy new plugs, and should i use the stock nissan plug wires off my de or the yellow accel ones i have? also whats the plug gap for the gtir? thanks
is the bov vented to atmo or recirc'd? if vented try recircing it back in. if it is open at idle it will cause the engine to run very rich because the bov is allowing the turbo to draw more air through the maf sensor than is actually going into the motor.
well i ran it today and it wont rev past say 2800k and definately wont spool...i am going to check to see if the bov is stuck and the egr vacuum diaphram is stuck..also to lean it out can i not just turn the fuel pressure down?...i am guessing this will help a little but an safc is the answer. which safc should be purchased?
You can get the plugs from any place that is a Keystone dealer. As for the BOV theory, its the opposite, it blows off and becomes rich. At idle,even open it would suck in air causing it to go lean. This would be amplified if he drove it, which is negative to what is his problem.
i checked boost leaks...none. im running it a exactly 3 bar. i ordered ngk's from mossy hopefully comin soon.
do all the vacuum lines (like in the diagram) need to be hooked up?
the large one going into the canister is plugged along with 2 others that do not go to the bov. the bov is stock and recirculating
what should the ohm reading at the injector be?
what should the volt reading at the MAF be?....i will look this up cause i know i found it in the past but if anyone knows off the top of their head.
thank you everyone
also i cant find the 02 plug off the harness ANYWHERE....where does it come thru the firewall?
well i ran it today and it wont rev past say 2800k and definately wont spool... safc is the answer. which safc should be purchased?
I would almost guarantee that your problem is with your MAF. When I unplug my maf it wont rev past 3k (same as most sr20's). Check, and re-check your maf connection. Buy some electrical contact cleaner and clean your maf sensor..
Dont go buying a safc yet, your car is running wrong, not just rich.. Defo concentrate on your codes they save lives lol..
Oh and after 3 months of running, I still dont have my o2 sensor hooked up.. Only difference that will make is with your mileage..
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N14 Gti Pulsar
Gtir engine, Hybrid FMIC kit, Walbro 255, Nismo FPR, 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ chrome RPS tip, 4 puk ceramic clutch, 2000lb pressure plate, Lightened, balanced flywheel, Greddy Type-RS BOV, Apexi AVCR - To be installed, 7psi for now!
