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Hmmm, I don't really know. The car was already set up like that when I bought it. It always ran and idled OK so I never thought about it.
It probably wouldn't make too much of a difference though. If my understanding of the IAC is correct, it controls the amount of air going into the engine when the throttle is closed to keep the idle steady. It's all metered air, and it seems like it would function the same regardless of placement at idle. Then with the throttle open, it shouldn't be doing anything anyway. Is that right? Lol, I'm open to suggestions.
I think the thought was that you wouldn't be running boost into the IACV, so when you let off it would have vaccum to control the idle, rather than boost. My current I/C pipes are setup with that nipple there for the IACV, I'll see how that runs and see if I need to make changes to it. It wouldn't affect idle when you were starting out, because the pipe isn't under boost, but once you let off it may fall (the idle) more than if it was hooke up pre-compressor.
And having seen it in person...the car is WELL put together. I know I give Dave crap sometimes....and then hard critique his builds...but its a nice setup. I figure I should give constructive critizim instead of just saying nothing if i see something wrong. Not that there is much wrong...but hey if i see something and have an idea i speak up. His work is top notch. Sucks that waste gate was getting stuck or something...but the car felt pretty strong at low boost anyway
Yeah i know thats the spot, i only ask because for the bottom hose he says "nissportish adapter". I wanted to know what part number he used for that one assuming the top hose part number is NS-2050R?
have you driven it yet and reached a conclusion on the IAC hose?
It has always driven OK. I could redo it while I have everything apart. The powder shop I use is really inexpensive, so it would be a big deal to do a few alterations and have the pipes recoated. I just need to read up on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by summat
Yeah i know thats the spot, i only ask because for the bottom hose he says "nissportish adapter". I wanted to know what part number he used for that one assuming the top hose part number is NS-2050R?
Sorry, I thought you just wanted the nissport one. I got the other from an ebay seller. It's nice, but it's much wider than the Nissport adapter. I don't think it would fit on the upper radiator hose:
Cheers for the link. So the Nissport is only good for the top hose? I haven't really looked but assumed the top and bottom hose would be the same size?
Cheers for the link. So the Nissport is only good for the top hose? I haven't really looked but assumed the top and bottom hose would be the same size?
They are the same diameter, the problem is in how much length the adapter adds to the hose. The generic adapter adds about 2.5" to the length of the hose, whereas the Nissport adapter only adds about 1" to the length of the hose. I made this in paint to show you what I mean:
The adapter has to be placed in a straight section of hose. The lower hose is really long, so you can trim some hose off. When you add the adapter, it remains the original length. The upper hose only has about 4" of straight hose to work with. You have to leave enough for the adapter to clamp on to, so you can't trim any excess away. Just adding one extra inch makes it tricky to get the upper hose in place. If you were to add 2.5" of length, you would never get it to fit.
I had already removed the water lines, as apparently the water seals are shot, but I left the water adapters in place (just capped off). In the post above, I mentioned that adding extra length to the upper radiator hose makes it a tight fit. Take a second look at this picture:
Notice that I made the cut a little too far to the left. Well, this placed the clamp too close to the bend. As a result, I ended up springing a tiny puncture leak in that upper hose where the clamp "dug in." Luckily I have half-a-freakin Sentra in my attic, so I had a spare on hand for a quick repair.
The oil seals appear to be OK, so I'm going to keep running the turbo as is without water lines for the time being. I'm going to go ahead with plans as they were- upgarade MAF/Injectors/ecu, then drop in the S4s (waiting patiently in the attic ). Then I'm looking toward perhaps a Big28 instead of just rebuilding this turbo. My power goal is 250-275whp. The Big28 should easily get me on the upper end of that range, and I'd get to keep my manifold, heatshield, piping etc.
I had already removed the water lines, as apparently the water seals are shot, but I left the water adapters in place (just capped off). In the post above, I mentioned that adding extra length to the upper radiator hose makes it a tight fit. Take a second look at this picture:
Notice that I made the cut a little too far to the left. Well, this placed the clamp too close to the bend. As a result, I ended up springing a tiny puncture leak in that upper hose where the clamp "dug in." Luckily I have half-a-freakin Sentra in my attic, so I had a spare on hand for a quick repair.
The oil seals appear to be OK, so I'm going to keep running the turbo as is without water lines for the time being. I'm going to go ahead with plans as they were- upgarade MAF/Injectors/ecu, then drop in the S4s (waiting patiently in the attic ). Then I'm looking toward perhaps a Big28 instead of just rebuilding this turbo. My power goal is 250-275whp. The Big28 should easily get me on the upper end of that range, and I'd get to keep my manifold, heatshield, piping etc.
RIDIN" STEALTH...........That 4door is muddy! I'm lovin it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX
Got damn those pictures made me weak
Very nice
Thanks guys.
The paint should be getting some lovin' soon. I was originally planning on getting the 200 painted, then maybe this one later. I cashed out some vacation time at work, got my finances all lined up, and when I finally had my buddy look at he 200sx... it was gonna be way more than I wanted put in that thing. That moves the Sentra up to bat, and it deserves a nice paint job. Right now it's not bad by any means, but it's definitely got its share of rock chips and parking lot bumps and scratches.
and people, he isnt lieing about having half a b14 in his attic, ive seen it. there is only one person ive ever known to have more stock spare parts...and he sold most of them not too long ago.
with the 3 in VRS exhaust system , how loud compared to stock would you say it is?
Loud is pretty subjective. You definitely wouldn't confuse it with a stock exhaust. It's quieter than most non-turbo cars with a 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust, but it's really deep with zero rasp. Loud or not, one thing is for certain... it sure sounds sexy.
Well, I've finished the 500 mile "probationary" period. I drove it really easy for the first 200 or so, to break in the clutch and spot any potential issues. Of course I couldn't resist leaning on it a few time along the way, but I continued to be really conservatively until about 400. After I got to 400 or so I got on it even more, but still didn't dump the clutch or anything.
After driving it 500 miles I changed the oil and checked it for anything unusual. Everything looked good. I also was going to change the transmission fluid. The tranny was unknown age and condition. I picked it up semi local, and all I knew was the guy said it should work, but he had never used it. Anyhow, just in case it was going to self destruct, I decided not to use Shockproof at first. After driving the car, it shifts really smooth and all apeared to be well. When I changed the fluid, I found some metal shavings on the drain plug magnet:
I thought that was a bit excessive ... then I remembered having some troubles with the clutch cable adjustment when I first started it. I had the cable way too tight and it was grinding when I tried to put the car in gear. It took me a several grinds before I got it sorted. I'm guessing the shavings are just from that. Just in case, I'm going to check it again in a few hundred miles. If all look good, I'll put in the Shockproof.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
you never took pictures of the catch can in place and hooked up
bump
Here's the catch can in place:
It's hard to tell, but it sits about 2" higher than the crossmember.
It's quieter than most non-turbo cars with a 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust, but it's really deep with zero rasp. Loud or not, one thing is for certain... it sure sounds sexy. 
... then I remembered having some troubles with the clutch cable adjustment when I first started it. I had the cable way too tight and it was grinding when I tried to put the car in gear. It took me a several grinds before I got it sorted. I'm guessing the shavings are just from that. Just in case, I'm going to check it again in a few hundred miles. If all look good, I'll put in the Shockproof.