t bags

i would do a z32 maf,nismo 555 injectors as a safe side for 300whp

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R.I.P. RESPECT SR.
93 p10--spun bearing--jdm swap she lives 06-01-07
96 b14--project ve+t
89 formula--454 swap 12.31 with no brakes

 

swiss

Yeah, I actually got the gauge mount, lines, and hose fittings from Serban. He was out of T's so I ordered one off ebay.

Z32 is a definate, 555s are what I'm leaning toward.

swiss

Well I haven't had much spare time lately, but I've been making some progress. Next, I'll be taking out the manifold, turbo, j-pipe, and downpipe to relocate the EGT sensor and finish up the downpipe.

swiss

I needed a good fuel pressure gauge before installing my FPR and Walbro pump. I decided to go with Serban’s Fuel Pressure Gauge Line Kit from gofastdepo.com. He has all of the install information here.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal. You don’t want anything electrical to have power when you are working with the fuel.

I teach a Fire Safety Course at work. When you are working on any part of your fuel system, it’s not a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

I decided to mount my gauge here:



Here is the tee fitting:



And here it is all together:

swiss

I teach a Fire Safety Course at work. When you are working on any part of your fuel system, it’s not a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

The Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator install is pretty straightforward, but I haven’t seen any installs with pics so here goes. This one is going on a lowport motor. Highports are a little different, but most of it would be the same.

My camera was dead when I started, so the removal part didn’t have any pictures. I mocked up some pictures with the stock FPR on my 200sx.

The first step will be purging your fuel lines. If you don’t do this gas is going to spray all over your engine bay when you remove the stock FPR. Purging the fuel lines is pretty simple. Locate the fuel pump fuse in the panel under your steering wheel (this is a 1998 Sentra SE, yours may be in a different place).



With the car running, pull the fuse. After a few seconds the car will die. At this point the lines should be pretty much drained, but there will always be some leftover.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal. You don’t want anything electrical to have power when you are working with the fuel.

Here is the stock FPR. It is located on the driver side of the fuel rail between the valve cover and intake manifold.



It is held in place with two Phillips head screws (wow Nissan, that was a great idea). After 10 or so years, they will be very stubborn. Whatever you do… DO NOT STRIP THEM OUT. Start with a dose of PB Blaster, and then tap them with a large flathead screwdriver (I used a pry bar instead) and a hammer. Don’t get carried away, though. You don’t want to break the head off of the screw.





Now try the screw, but don’t force it. If it doesn’t want to go, give it another round of tapping. Repeat this process (it took me about 5 rounds) until the screws turn with minimal effort.

After removing the screws, wiggle the FPR out of the fuel rail. Have a shop towel handy. You will still have some fuel leftover in the lines. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the fuel return line, and then remove the vacuum line. Your stock FPR can now be removed.



The Nismo unit won’t fit a lowport motor without slight modification. You’ll need to adjust the angle of the return line tube in order to clear the valve cover. To bend the tube, find the largest size allen wrench that will fit in the tube.



Put it in until the end of the allen wrench is right at the bend in the FPR tube. Bend it sloooowly, a little at a time. It doesn’t need to be perfectly straight.



Use a little motor oil to lubricate the o-ring on the new FPR.





Attach the fuel return line and tighten down the hose clamp. Attach the vacuum line as well (I had to use a longer vacuum line and “coil” it around to prevent any kinks). Now wiggle the FPR into place.



At this point, I realized the intake manifold support bracket was going to be in the way of the FPR adjustment screw. I decided to go ahead and remove it (temporarily).



Replace the screws that hold the FPR in place. Again, be cautious not to damage the screw heads.



Double check your connections. If all looks well, replace the fuel pump fuse and reconnect your battery. Turn the key to the accessory position without starting the car. This will activate the fuel pump and pressurize the lines without actually running the car. Check for leaks first. If your connections look good, check the fuel pressure gauge.



Mine was running over 50psi (it should be at ~37psi for a 3bar setup). This is why you don’t start the car. It could be waaay off. Use a 10mm wrench to adjust the pressure screw at the top. Clockwise increases the pressure, counter-clockwise decreases it.



You may need to periodically “re-prime” the fuel pump by switching the key off and back on (still not starting the car). Mine seemed to lose some pressure after a minute or so. Once you have your FPR adjusted properly (or pretty close), start the car and check the gauge to make sure it stayed where you set it.



Once you are satisfied with the pressure, spin the retainer nut down to the head of the FPR. This protects your adjustment screw from unintentional movement. Replace the intake manifold bracket and you’re done.

swiss

The final step for my fuel system upgrade was the Walbro fuel pump. I went with the 255LPH High Pressure model. coalitionSE-L has a great write up you can find here.

I do have a few helpful tips I can add.

I teach a Fire Safety Course at work. When you are working on any part of your fuel system, it’s not a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher handy.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal. You don’t want anything electrical to have power when you are working with the fuel.

Ventilation is very important. I opened everything and used a heavy duty shop fan blowing through the rear doors. That helped quite a bit.



When I got to the sending unit, it was filthy. I was afraid some debris might make it’s way into the fuel tank. Before removing it, I used a shop-vac and some rags to clean it up.





If you have a pre-disposition to f*cking up simple things (like I do), label the send and return lines when you remove them.





Having my camera with me and taking pictures along the way was also helpful. You can always refer back to the pictures of what things looked like before they were disassembled.



I also found it helpful to have a drain pan in the car as a parts tray. You don’t want to drip fuel all over your interior getting this stuff out of the car.

swiss

coalitionSE-L decided not to cover the portion of the install following Walbro’s instructions. I took some pictures, so here it is.

Open up the plastic case surrounding the stock fuel pump (no tricks here, it uses plastic clips that you will clearly see). Set the case aside. Lay out all of your parts, old and new. Take inventory to make sure you have all the new parts you need.





Remove the wiring harness and send line attached to the stock pump. Be sure to note the orientation of the send line.





Place the metal swell ring on the filter adapter.



Place the filter adapter on the base of the Walbro pump, using the locating stud to be sure you have it on correctly.



Secure the adapter using one of the two retaining rings provided in the kit. I used a 4mm socket to push it in place.





Secure the filter onto the filter adapter. Again, there is a locating stud to be sure you have it on correctly.



Use the other retaining ring (using the same 4mm socket procedure from above) to secure the filter to the filter adapter.

Install the original wiring harness and send line on the Walbro pump. Be sure to use the hose clamps provided in the kit instead of the old hardware. Position the new pump in the stock housing.



Replace the housing cover.



Now you’re ready to put the new pump in the fuel tank.

wes

Nice work and write-up. I also like your use of the financial section!

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swiss

Well I’m back at it. I actually have been for a while now, but haven’t had much extra time to write up what I’ve been doing. I have, however, been stockpiling lots of great pictures so let’s get you up to speed…

Some of you probably saw the temporary downpipe I posted in Member’s Rides. My original downpipe was kind of a hackjob and only a 2.5” hackjob at that. That mated with the Greddy SP exhaust (2.25”) was really choking the life out of the car. I have had a 3” divorced j-pipe I won on Ebay, a 3” Hass downpipe, and a 3” VRS exhaust just collecting dust in the garage for months now. To feel the full effect, I didn’t want to put on the exhaust until I put on the downpipe. The full downpipe (a combination of the divorced piece and the Hass downpipe) was going to require removal of the whole setup and some fabrication as well. Clearly, I’ve been putting that off.

I finally decided to do something about it. I decided to hack off the “good” part of the downpipe and weld on a downward pointing tip.



It actually worked great. The car was fast as balls compared to what it was before. It was also louder than any car I’ve ever heard driving around on the streets. Now I knew it was going to be loud, but wow… it was REALLY loud.

This turned out to be just the motivation I needed. I decided to go ahead and yank everything out and really get my gloves dirty. Here’s some of the stuff I’ve been working on:

3” downpipe (hopefully divorced)
3” exhaust
Relocate EGT sensor from downpipe to manifold
New hotside intercooler piping
Lots of random oddjobs

swiss

Everything in this car is locked into place like puzzle pieces. To remove the manifold and turbo, I needed to remove the compressor outlet pipe. To remove the compressor outlet pipe, I needed to remove the rest of the hotside intercooler piping. To remove the rest of the hotside intercooler piping, I needed to remove the entire front end. Then, since I still have AC… yup I needed to unbolt the AC compressor. To do that, I needed to remove the belt. You see what I mean? No wonder I’ve been putting this off.

Front end removed:



Manifold nuts sipping on some PB Blaster



Finally



Don’t see these too often





Manifold/ Turbo/ J-pipe





Everything removed

swiss

Here’s a quick recap:

Ebay divorced j-pipe





Hass downpipe



The plan



Well, now that everything was out of the car, I could finally check out the fitment.



Everything looked pretty good. One of the bolt holes was a couple of millimeters off, but it can be bored out to work perfectly. It was probably fabbed up on a T28.

So now the moment of truth….



FAILURE





It was only about an inch off. I wonder why?



AC. I’m pretty convinced it would fit perfectly without the AC bracket in the way. You could see where it would slip right into shape of the engine underneath the bracket, kind of like Africa and South America. Otherwise the fitment was great. It tucked very neatly up under the oil pan. It looks like this was lovingly and painstakingly fabbed up… on an engine that didn’t have AC. For right now I’m going to hang on to it, so it's not for sale. I’ve been thinking about ditching the AC for a while now anyway, but I’m not ready to make that decision. BTW, if I do ever decide to sell it, chriscar is first in line.

At least I have the Hass downpipe.

swiss

Next up was tapping the manifold for the EGT sensor. The previous owner had the EGT probe in the downpipe:



I didn’t really care for that. By the time you get a reading, the exhaust gas has already traveled through the manifold, turbo, and downpipe. It can’t be nearly as accurate (or immediate) as tapping the manifold.

The only question is which manifold runner to tap. Many seem to think cylinder 1 is most likely to go lean. This seems reasonable as it is furthest away from the fuel supply. Some argue it is cylinder 3, as it is usually the piston that suffers the most detonation on blown motors.

I chose # 3 because almost every motor I’ve seen blown to sh*t was because of detonation in that cylinder. Realistically, it doesn’t matter. I glance at the EGT pretty often, but I’m sure most people were looking at the road when their engines self destructed. That’s most likely what I’ll be doing when this one goes.

Looking at the space I had to work with, I thought straight through the middle might be a little too tight.



Installing the probe at an angle seemed like a better option.



I use an Autometer EGT gauge. The probe uses a 1/8” NPT thread. The tap calls for a 21/64ths drill. Not something most people happen to have. Since NPT taps are tapered, I figured a 5/16ths (20/64ths) would do just fine. I was correct.

After I marked my spot with a punch, I started out with a small drill bit. Then I slowly worked my way up from there, eventually to 5/16ths.







Once I finished the starter hole, I cleaned up the hole to get rid of all the shavings and gave it a shot of oil. Using a tap is much different than just turning a bolt. Remember, you’re cutting iron here. If you screw up, you may be in the market for a new manifold. You have to go slowly, don’t try to run the tap all the way through in the first shot. I usually do something like 1/2 turn forward then 1/8 turn back for 4 or 5 rotations, then slowly back the tap out.



Then clean up shavings, test fit the sensor adapter, re-oil, and repeat until your adapter is reaching the proper depth.



Here is the finished product:





Now I need to create an access hole in the heat shield.

wes

Can you reomve the AC bracket and cut out the portion that interferes? That bracket is SO damn big anyway will it still have at least 2-3 bolt holes with that portion removed?

FWIW when I removed the AC from my GA16 I cut the bracket in half to simply hold the alternator....

blairellis

I was thinking the same thing when I was reading his post.

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Blair
93 P10

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." - Jeremiah 29:11 (NIV)