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Old 12-01-2006, 08:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
swiss
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I appreciate the ideas guys. I'm going to get back under there again tomorrow to get a better look at things with bracket trimming in mind.
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Old 12-01-2006, 08:30 PM   #42 (permalink)
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double post, sorry
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Old 12-01-2006, 09:49 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I just noticed you live by Calum... you should get your ecu from him...
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Old 12-01-2006, 10:33 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I haven't met him, but I knew he lived in the area. IDK what the status is on B14 ecu's though. I read a while back that he "cracked" the B14 ecu, but I don't think he's got pre-made programs ready just yet. I'll have to catch up on that!
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Old 12-03-2006, 12:25 AM   #45 (permalink)
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To whoever posted about the fuel rail/fpr bolts.

The best solution is to ditch the screws all together and get some allen key bolts from Home Depot/Lowes that fit it. They will, next to never, strip out.

Get under that car and start trimming
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Old 12-03-2006, 12:48 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Well, today was divorced downpipe test fit round 2. The goal was to determine if it would work if the AC bracket was modified. I decided to yank out the bracket and see what happened.



And here’s what happened:



Success

Look at how beautifully this thing fits:





This was of course with the compressor well out of the way.



The bracket trimming will definitely get past one hurdle. Now I need to figure out how to run the AC lines. The plan for now will be to run the 3” Hass downpipe on the factory j-pipe. I’ll pick up some spare AC lines and mess around with them once the car is up and running.

Last edited by swiss : 04-22-2007 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 12-03-2006, 02:12 PM   #47 (permalink)
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love the write up. thanks!
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Old 12-03-2006, 04:01 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Do you know specifically where the pipe hits the bracket? I would mark it and see if perhaps someone can fab you up a new bracket that avoids the problem area. This will save weight as well!
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Old 12-03-2006, 04:10 PM   #49 (permalink)
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custom aluminum bracket FTW
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Old 12-05-2006, 11:57 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes
Do you know specifically where the pipe hits the bracket? I would mark it and see if perhaps someone can fab you up a new bracket that avoids the problem area. This will save weight as well!
Yeah, it's just the top right corner:



I'm thinking something like this photoshop would work well:



Here's the original for reference:



A new custom bracket would be nice, but I think this will do.

Last edited by swiss : 04-22-2007 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 12-06-2006, 12:02 AM   #51 (permalink)
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not to mention that corner was probably 5lbs, lol, damn that bracket was heavy...you would think a much more light weight bracket could of been used
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Old 12-06-2006, 12:07 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budsang1
not to mention that corner was probably 5lbs, lol, damn that bracket was heavy...you would think a much more light weight bracket could of been used
I remember bob legere back in the day drilling a ton of holes in the bracket to save weight! Like I said I cut mine more than in half and it saved over 5 lbs....

I went through 5 18V batteries in the sawzall and 3 blades trying to get through it though.... I guess what I am trying to say is use a bandsaw!
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:52 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swiss
Yeah, it's just the top right corner:



I'm thinking something like this photoshop would work well:



Here's the original for reference:



A new custom bracket would be nice, but I think this will do.
do it... do it... do it...
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:57 AM   #54 (permalink)
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swiss i know a buddy thats an hvac certified guy so if you need some custom lines made just let me know... i bet he wouldnt mind at all. a few buck maybe but nothing like spendin 300$ on custom lines at a mechanic...
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:34 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Octave236
swiss i know a buddy thats an hvac certified guy so if you need some custom lines made just let me know... i bet he wouldnt mind at all. a few buck maybe but nothing like spendin 300$ on custom lines at a mechanic...
Sounds good, he is in Nashville?
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:37 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Studs

While everything was apart, I wanted to replace the manifold studs (the ones in the cylinder head) and j-pipe studs. Both are very prone to breakage. I’ve broken them before, and it sucks pretty bad.

Here’s the new goods:



There are tools you can buy to change studs, but I’ve never used one. Short of using a special tool you have two basic options.

Option one, the double-nut method, takes a little practice, but it’s pretty simple. Put a nut partway down on the stud; tighten another nut down on top of it.





Because you want to remove the stud, you’ll turn the bottom nut. The top nut will hold it in place, so instead of the nut turning, the whole stud turns.



To install a stud, you turn the top nut instead.

That worked for ten out of the eleven studs I replaced. The last one required option two, brute force:



All manifold studs removed:



While the studs are out is a great time to prep the head for a new gasket. Half the old gasket is usually still stuck to the head. I used a plastic putty spreader to scrape off the old gasket residue. You don’t want to use anything that could damage the aluminum.



Some “staining” is normal from the OEM gasket. Just be sure that the mating surface is perfectly smooth.





Here are the new manifold studs installed:



I ran into some trouble on the j-pipe studs. I read that the j-pipe studs were the same as used for the manifold (M10x1.25). Sure enough, the 10x1.25 nuts threaded right on. The first two studs came off without incident. I had to get medieval on the last one with vice-grips, but no big deal.



Then I started to turn in the first stud (the hole I got medieval on). It didn’t really want to go, but I thought it just needed a little encouragement. I forced it a couple of turns before it started to feel really wrong. I backed it out and saw it was starting to chew up the threads. It took me forever to figure out what was going on… the original stud was two totally different threads! The “anchor” end was M10x1.5 and the “nut” end was M10x1.25. WTF?!

I picked up a tap from NAPA to clean up the threads, and I tried to find a stud like it. I checked with just about every parts store in town and even looked online, but couldn’t locate one. I ended up just buying some M10x1.5 studs and some new nuts to match.


Last edited by swiss : 04-22-2007 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:39 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Gaskets

The old exhaust manifold gasket was pretty well destroyed:



I picked up a nice metal 3 layer Nissan gasket to replace it:



The turbine gaskets were in great shape, so I just cleaned them up a bit. These nice metal gaskets last for thousands and thousands of miles:





The old downpipe gasket was OK, but look at the soot line:



As it turns out, the j-pipe has a 2.75” outlet. A 2.5” gasket blocks part of the opening. I picked up a really nice 3” aluminum gasket. It was perfect for my downpipe, but it wouldn’t fit over the j-pipe studs. After looking at it for a minute, I realized I could bore out the hole and make it work:









Perfecto.

Last edited by swiss : 04-22-2007 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 12-06-2006, 10:41 PM   #58 (permalink)
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EGT Sensor

I needed to modify the manifold heatshield to accommodate the relocated EGT sensor.



After I picked the spot, I drilled out a hole. I started small and worked my way up to a 1/2” bit, then used a reamer to get it to the appropriate size (~1”). Finally, I cleaned up the hole with a round file and some sandpaper.





Sanded down and prepped:



And finally with a few coats of VHT flameproof: