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Old 04-08-2008, 04:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
SR20DEbT

 
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Adjusting GTi-R TPS...

I had issues with my car idleing at 2,000rpm's even when warmed up no matter what. I decided to try and adjust the TPS and the thing will not adjust to .44-.45. The best I was able to get it to was .67 or so. Now the car will idle at 750rpm's but it is running so damn rich. I am pretty sure the AACV is not connected as I don't have the pigtail to splice the stock harness for the GTi-R one. Could this be the reason it is running so rich? The car smokes black pretty bad and when trying to rev it will make its way up but sputters here and there.

The setup is a JWT ecu for 444 @ 3bar and Cobra maf. I installed a Walbro 255 but have not installed my regulator yet. I figured the extra couple PSI of pressure from the fuel pump would not cause this. The maf is wired up and soldered correctly. I also reversed the two outer TPS wires and soldered them up. I was searching and read where a guy said to check the middle pin on the TPS to see where to adjust it to and I have tried for the past 3-4 hours with no luck. If any of you GTi-R guys have any suggestions, please let me know so I can get this car to the track this weekend. TIA!

I am looking for the GTi-R clip for the AACV so if anyone has one, I will buy it ASAP!
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Last edited by nismo94tuner; 04-08-2008 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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is your aac valve idle screw all the way in? if so turn it out aout 2-2 1/2 turns.

ive ran my car a few times with the aac valve completely disconnected, i just used my wideband to dial in the air fuel ratio at idle. for some odd reason i could od that, i donno if you have a wideband or not.

.44-.46 for the tps is about right.
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The screw is not budging at all. I tried so hard without stripping it and I had no luck. I will try and break it free but I am not sure if it is all the way tight or all the way loose.

I wish I could set the TPS to .44 but the lowest it went to just now was .63. At that point I ran out of adjustment. I am just running out of ideas of what to do with this thing.
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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.45 at idle and 4.00 at WOT lots of people dont know that the gti-r isnt 4.5 at WOT like most other sr20s but only 4.0

so when you try and get the .45 closed are you still trying to get the 4.5 WOT? becuase that would make setting both ends hard to do
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I was trying all day to get the setting to go to .44 closed. The lowest I managed to get it was .594. I spoke to John from CT and he recommended to bend the tab on the TPS and it helped but not enough to get it right. I am trying so hard to locate a TPS for this motor. I wish a usdm one worked. Has anyone found a clip to work with the GTi-R aacv from another nissan vehicle? This is turning out to be an expensive project. Should of went with a BB or W11 and called it a day. Any help is appreciated fellas.
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well is the AAC valve screwed all the way in?
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It's not the AAC (Auxillary Air Control). Its the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) which has the adjusting screw to regulate your idle. I have a GTiR in a b14 and I cant lower my idle either. What you should do is take it out and clean it with some carb cleaner and see if it helps. I gotta do the same thing to mine *** I cant get it any lower than 1200 RPM. Let me know how it goes.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I will try that. The idle adjustment screw is stuck in place. I can't turn it either way. Its like the screw it siezed up.

I have the brown connector clipped to the sensor which points down towards the crossmember. I then noticed the other connector above it to the side which points to the passenger side of the car that has nothing on it. I do not have the clip that will go onto so I am not able to splice the stock harness and use a clip for it. Maybe I can take a picture tomorrow. Hopefully the IACV is not too hard to take off to clean out.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Also forgot to mention. I tried to start the car and I can get it to start when holding the throttle but it chugs pretty hard and smokes. Even if I put the pedal to the floor, the car barely can reach 3,000rpm's. Before I attempted moving the tps, it would rev freely without any hesitation and start right up.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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my car has this same problem but im using a w11...i know its my tps...also i cant past 5k...it breaks up and sounds like a machine gun firing through my exhaust. but i think that is either due to a boost leak...or spark plugs. also the black smoke is form it running rich. same problem here. all we can do is have some patience and try and work it out.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've slapped a new set of BKR7E plugs at .028 gap. My car cannot hold even an idle now. It used to hold an idle but sounded like a serious cammed car and puffed out black smoke on each lope. I am pretty sure the injectors are good but maybe the top feeds could be leaking? I don't have much experience with the top feeds. If your car cannot pass 5K I would check the idle air control valve. My brothers was bad in his car and once he changed it the car was good and ran 1000 times better.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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do you have a wideband? the the black smoke is fuel where does it start to smoke black at lower rpm or higher rpm, or idle? sounds likeyou are running rich
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The car is definately running pig rich. I cannot get the car to even idle. As I hold the throttle all it does is smoke and barely wanna stay alive. If I go even half throttle it struggles to climb to 3,000rpm's or more.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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well the tps would effect idle ,but wouldnt effect ur air fuel ratios. the aac valve would also effect the idle , but wouldnt so much effectthe air fuel ratio, what have u used to tune this?
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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if your tps is advanced its telling the computer that the throttle is open more than it should be and with the gti-r the o2 sensor wont ever work because the gti-r forums wont help me out on that one and im not smart enough to figure it out. REGARDLESS advanced tps means more fuel without the air or atleats thats the way i see it so thats a big part in the chugging idle.

the clip that your looking for has to be swapped for a purple plug off the gti-r harness to work with the gti-r aac. The set of wires that goes to the acc ties into the main loom at the same spot that the knock sensor... and a few other things do im not sure its been a while but im pretty positive one of the wires are yellow with maybe a green stripe and the other one is black with gray dots. O and i remember i think its a grey oval 2 pin connector and it looks like it should be plugged into the oil sending unit but it doesnt.

pm me for more help, can call me if you have to
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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this exact problem happened to me before i sold my car to your buddy, the problem is the Auxillary Air control Valve (NOT THE IACV, yes they are different) is stuck open. the spring inside of it probably snapped. on SR20DE's it's located below the intake manifold, on the Passenger side. I wouldnt worry about the TPS so much if it's set to .63 and don't bother messing with timing cause it's just going to be advanced because of your high idle. check the valve and go from there that's your best bet.

PS - it's running rich because with the AACV stuck open the ECM is reading this as a vacuum leak. I also posted a thread about this problem about a year ago if u wanna check it out.
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Last edited by Pr0nSt4r; 04-09-2008 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dxpxe View Post
if your tps is advanced its telling the computer that the throttle is open more than it should be and with the gti-r the o2 sensor wont ever work because the gti-r forums wont help me out on that one and im not smart enough to figure it out. REGARDLESS advanced tps means more fuel without the air or atleats thats the way i see it so thats a big part in the chugging idle.

the clip that your looking for has to be swapped for a purple plug off the gti-r harness to work with the gti-r aac. The set of wires that goes to the acc ties into the main loom at the same spot that the knock sensor... and a few other things do im not sure its been a while but im pretty positive one of the wires are yellow with maybe a green stripe and the other one is black with gray dots. O and i remember i think its a grey oval 2 pin connector and it looks like it should be plugged into the oil sending unit but it doesnt.

pm me for more help, can call me if you have to
Yes, you are right, it is the purple connector on the GTi-R harness. I unfortunately did not get the gti-r harness. I know we used the grey oval connector on my friends swap and it worked no problem. In my opinion, your right about the TPS. It seems to be dumping too much fuel for the amount of air the motor is taking in. The plugs came out very black.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr0nSt4r View Post
this exact problem happened to me before i sold my car to your buddy, the problem is the Auxillary Air control Valve (NOT THE IACV, yes they are different) is stuck open. the spring inside of it probably snapped. on SR20DE's it's located below the intake manifold, on the Passenger side. I wouldnt worry about the TPS so much if it's set to .63 and don't bother messing with timing cause it's just going to be advanced because of your high idle. check the valve and go from there that's your best bet.

PS - it's running rich because with the AACV stuck open the ECM is reading this as a vacuum leak. I also posted a thread about this problem about a year ago if u wanna check it out.
Hopefully if I get the AACV connected it can settle this issue and I can manage to get the car running better. I'll have to check on your old posts. I know once we got your old car here, we just slapped on a new TPS harness and the car was runnin way better. Now the thing is running like a raped ape.

I'm going to try and pull the AACV. Also may pull the IACV to shoot it out with some carb cleaner and see if it helps at all. I just hopped in the car today and after just eyeballing the tps to a near center location, it started like usual but I managed to get it to idle very rough at 600-700rpm's. If I rev it up it will die if I don't slowly easy the rpm's to idle.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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the idle screw being stuck cant be a good thing easier. id tell you to use a impact driver or something but its aluminum.... and not a easy part to come by if something cat-o-strophic happens
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:03 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am trying to find a complete intake manifold at this point. The only thing I am worried about if it comes down to doing the whole IM is if I will have enough clearance to pull it off while the motor is in the car. Really not trying to drop the motor to do something so tedious.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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if you pull the fans out and the front and passenger motor mount then you can get a really good angle and probebly get the manifold off BUT theres also alot of annoying stuff underneith to disconnect.

actually just re-sealed a friends manifold to head gasket this way. If you were to take the manifold apart in peices it would be easier but then you would need more gaskets
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