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As far as I know thats the only way to get the oil back into the motor. If you put it into the 2nd oil pan the oil will back up and you won't have the oil draining out of the turbo. The Engine does not need to come out to be tapped for the oil drain.
VW also returns the oil to the pan in the 2.0t and I think the 1.8t. However the sr20 pan is very shallow, so there's not much room to place a return fitting, and your oil return line is going to be hanging pretty damn low.
That said - the only special tools you need to do it the 'right' way on an sr20 are a drill and tap. And the engine doesn't have to be dropped. Basically you remove the header, radiator, fans, crossmember, lower & upper pans, and then you're ready to drill.
The oil drain should return the oil above the oil level in the oil pan. The Evo has a very deep oil pan, the SR20 does not. Hence, why the SR20 returns the oil to where it does.
You do NOT need to drop the motor. I don't know where you got that idea. At the MOST, you have to take out the radiator. Do it the right way the first time!
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Khiem
'96 SE-R.... boost, brakes, suspension, etc... sold
'05 Evo
'05 CBR 600RR
This sr20 will be installed longitudinally in a silvia so gaining access to the oil return is a lot more difficult because of the lack of space. the motor has to be dropped to allow access and to also allow a perpendicular hole to be drilled and tapped.
I dont know if this helps any but depending on what type of manifold and turbo you are usuing u can put the oil drain(return) directly to the part that the OEM oil catch can or oil seperator whatever its called drains into you know The black can thing on the front or the motor. When i had the turbo setup on my marron B13 SE-R I had a log manifold with a 20G and thats where I drained and the car was fine for the 2 years or so that I had it boosted.
__________________ Once you go turbo you'll never go back!!!
1993 Ruby Red SE-R SR20DE+T RIP junked 3/06
1995 Infiniti G20
1994 Aztec Red SE-R W10DET powered
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodbuysell
whats a 2 step and how does it build boost at the line
Quote:
Originally Posted by GateCrasher_VI
anyone have a spare muffler bearing or two? 'reason to suspect thats where my coffee can sound is coming from
Hmm..... well, one option is to go with a spacer that pushes down the oil pan an inch or so, and provides and oil drain spot. Look at the spacer for the 350Z turbo kit from JWT.
i tapped the upper oil pan. ill get pics. its working fine. i did it there because if i f*ed the block i would have killed myself. if i f*ed up the upper oil pan i had another.
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My first lover - 1991 NX2000: Rattle Can Army green n' black. (10:1 De+t Avn. setup. open dp. hypercoil springs. FSTB. RSTB. harness bar.) Made it into Project Car tuner mag!
Current lover - 1990 240sx Coupe: Rattle Can Almond white. (Tein coilovers, 16x8/9 Autostrada Modena's. 17x7 axxis drift spares. 6pt autopower roll bar. SS brake lines. Nismo 2way. Corbeau Forza. NRG camlock)
i tapped the upper oil pan. ill get pics. its working fine. i did it there because if i f*ed the block i would have killed myself. if i f*ed up the upper oil pan i had another.
Pics please! I'm considering tapping the upper oil pan instead because it could be done outside of the car on a spare oil pan I had. I don't see how it would be that big of an issue because it's only 1.5" lower than the location on the block where everyone else taps.
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