Metal Gasket Leak? - SR20 Forum
 
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 11:10 PM
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Metal Gasket Leak?

I know most of you are familiar when we diagnose a cracked head or gasket by looking at the radiator's water making bubbles?

Well, there is bubbles that says something's wrong with either the cometic head gasket or the head itself..

Anyone experienced this? can it be fiXed by re-torquing the head bolts?
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnoutkid View Post
I know most of you are familiar when we diagnose a cracked head or gasket by looking at the radiator's water making bubbles?

Well, there is bubbles that says something's wrong with either the cometic head gasket or the head itself..

Anyone experienced this? can it be fiXed by re-torquing the head bolts?
No. Once you got bubbles of air into the radiator you got at least a blown headgasket that needs to be replaced. Retorquing will only lead into more disaster, believe me.
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 07:44 AM
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I have heard of cold leaks happening when using a metal head gasket.

Basically what happens, when the car is turned off coolant finds its way onto the cylinders.

This happens due to the block/head not being proprly cleaned or is warped.

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#4 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 06:52 PM
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 10:37 PM
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I had a Cometic go like you described after a brief overheat. If you look at the specs on the gasket, it requires an Ra50 finish on both the head and the block. This is extremely smooth and much,much finer than the finish I got from the machine shop. The reason it needs to be so fine is because the gasket's viton layer is only about .001 thick! This means that even a tiny scratch that you cant even feel can cause problems. I ended up using another Cometic, but lapped both my head and my block to a very smooth surface, gave the studs a little extra torque (Golden Eagle B16a's) and did a retorque after the first 3-4 heat cycles. SO far so good even though I blasted the motor with 20psi and a 75 shot repeatedly at the strip. We'll see how it holds long term. If I had to do it again, I would go with the stock VE gasket as it is MLS but seems to have much more room for forgiveness in terms of surface finish and warpage issues. My $.02
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SIKB13 View Post
I have heard of cold leaks happening when using a metal head gasket.

Basically what happens, when the car is turned off coolant finds its way onto the cylinders.

This happens due to the block/head not being proprly cleaned or is warped.

If coolant/water does go into the cylinder it would at least blow white smoke out the exhaust right? mine does not blow any smoke at all except in the morning.

it does not over heat as well, I drove it hard yesterday for about a couple of hours and temp was normal.

there were oil leaks in the distributor due to its gasket but could that be the cause? still thinking the gasket is messed up but I just want to be sure before we open it up again as everything is running smooth at 12psi except these bubbles that I'm worried about.

it comes out when you rev but the water/coolant in the reservoir does not overflow.

I have a DE block with a VE head + T just in case this information will help but indeed we made sure both surface are cleaned before the gasket was placed. Grease was even applied to the gasket so it'll position itslef well when torquing.
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b13bliss View Post
I had a Cometic go like you described after a brief overheat. If you look at the specs on the gasket, it requires an Ra50 finish on both the head and the block. This is extremely smooth and much,much finer than the finish I got from the machine shop. The reason it needs to be so fine is because the gasket's viton layer is only about .001 thick! This means that even a tiny scratch that you cant even feel can cause problems. I ended up using another Cometic, but lapped both my head and my block to a very smooth surface, gave the studs a little extra torque (Golden Eagle B16a's) and did a retorque after the first 3-4 heat cycles. SO far so good even though I blasted the motor with 20psi and a 75 shot repeatedly at the strip. We'll see how it holds long term. If I had to do it again, I would go with the stock VE gasket as it is MLS but seems to have much more room for forgiveness in terms of surface finish and warpage issues. My $.02
Then I would have to go OEM DE gasket if this is the case. I still have another 1.20 cometic in place but with these reviews about the gasket it seems that we've gone the wrong way.

i am just worried of the valve clearance to the pistons as I am running on N1 cams hoping to go 1 bar of boost at least. If the compression is too much with the stock gasket will this still be possible?
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 04:38 PM
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go to any radiator repair shop and they can do a chemical test that would show if any exhaust gases has entered the coolant
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