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ok, i swaped in a brand new motor *** my last oen stoped working suddenly while driving and i still have not been able to get the damn thing started. Cam timing is fine, there is spark, and there is defintly fuel. When try to start the car, the engine will instatly flood, so i'll try pulling the fuel pump fuse and dry out the engine and than it will kinda sputter like its trying to start instead of just cranking. I am really stumped and i've been trying to figure this out for a month now.
Things tried:
Diff Engine!!!
Diff MAF
Diff ECU
Diff Plug Wires
Diff Plugs
Spraying carb cleaner in TB while cranking
CAm timing (it is at 10 and 12 and 20 pins , i believe this is correct)
EDIT: A MORE THOROUGH BACKGROUND
When car first broke first time, i was crusing on highway and i started notciing that i had to give the car more gas to stay at constant speed, eventually i needed to start boosting to stay at 75 mph, so i pull off the highway and as i slow down at the stop sign, my car dies. IT has never started since. I could not figure out what was wrong with it, and my timing chain on my old motor was extremelty loose, that i decided i might as well swap in a fresh jdm motor, and hope it was just the old motor died. I was wrong. The new motor does the same thing. IT will crank, it has compression, spark, and fuel, but it will not start. I have tried most everything to get it to start with no luck. Spraying carb cleaner into throttle body trick, nope, didnt work. Tried 2 diff distriubotrs, spark plug wires, plugs, ecu, maf, still nothing different. I am assuming it has to be soemting i didnt swap over, so i have a feeling its someting electrical with the car, perhaps a wire in the harness or some fuse that has seem to eluded me.
My car died and wouldn't start once because of the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR connector--It would do like what you're saying...then I wiggled the connector on and off a few times and it started and ran great. Then I bought a new sensor and cleaned the terminal as best I could an put dielectric grease on the connector--never a problem since.
My car died and wouldn't start once because of the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR connector--It would do like what you're saying...then I wiggled the connector on and off a few times and it started and ran great. Then I bought a new sensor and cleaned the terminal as best I could an put dielectric grease on the connector--never a problem since.
hmm, i didnt know the coolant temp sensor connecter could do that. so that woudl be soemting that would be the same from the last time i had old engine and it stoped starting. Could u give me a few more details on this?
i was under the impression that if u have a leaky o ring, u can just pull off the rail and see if it sprays normal. I did this and it sprayed, and i dint see anyitng drip out.. so doesnt that mean o rings ok? i'm not sure..
just pull the rail off and turn the key in the on position,nothing should spray out,the rail just gets pressurized.if any fuel sprays or leaks out its a problem.
From your signature I am guessing that you have a turbo? If you do I would check all of your IC piping. If you have a small leak that will cause it to flood. Also what maf do you have??? Maybe the wiring to the maf is switched?
Sorry if these questions were already answered.
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00 P11T DD
91 B13 Drag Car
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UPDATE: i just found out my fuel rail isnt staying pressurized. When i carnk the car, the pressure dips to around 20 psi and fluctuates. I am thinking this may be a cause. Anyone know for sure if the rail is supposed to stay at pressurized the entire time?
If the fuel pressure is dropping, you wouldn't think that it would be flooding with fuel.
As far as the Coolant temp sensor issue, if the sensor goes bad or the wiring is damaged and the computer doesn't see a signal back from the sensor, the computer defaults to I believe a 40 or -40 degree (it's been a while) temperature reading. At that cold of a temp, the ECU really starts dumping fuel into the engine.
If the fuel pressure is dropping, you wouldn't think that it would be flooding with fuel.
As far as the Coolant temp sensor issue, if the sensor goes bad or the wiring is damaged and the computer doesn't see a signal back from the sensor, the computer defaults to I believe a 40 or -40 degree (it's been a while) temperature reading. At that cold of a temp, the ECU really starts dumping fuel into the engine.
I was just thinking maybe since pressure isnt steady, injectors might be spryaing irradictly, thus causing it to flood, and with the coolant temp sensor, Never though ot if, i have a new motor in tehre and it still doesnt work, so im' guessing its someting that is the same on both motors, which is my fuel pump, but i dunno. i'll try anyting to get it started
After you did the swap did you reconnect the ecu harness ground? Its the one that bolts to the intake manifold bolts near the throttle body side. The car will not start unless this is grounded. You will get a sputter at best and it will flood out super fast. Check that and see if its connected.
After you did the swap did you reconnect the ecu harness ground? Its the one that bolts to the intake manifold bolts near the throttle body side. The car will not start unless this is grounded. You will get a sputter at best and it will flood out super fast. Check that and see if its connected.
is it the 2 small wires that attach to the intake manifold runner?
Even if this is not grounded you will see a slight spark but the car will not run. Just check the ground to the coil if the harness for the ecu is not grounded correctly you will get a slight positive feedback through the ground wires.
Why are you so concerned with the cam timing? did you change the cams in the motor or are they the stock ones that came in it?
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