I'm nearing the end of a similar project, but I'm also doing a full rebuild after I had some oil starvation and developed rod knock.
My goal is also 250+hp, and I've seen some reach 300 with similar components.
I'll PM you a link to the full photo dump, but here are some highlights:
ACL Race Main/Rod/Thrust Bearings with Calico Coating .25 over
Media Blasted Pistons (which cleared out some oil passages)
New NPR Piston Rings
Block Drilled/Tapped for Turbo Oil Return
New OEM Head Bolts
JWT S3 Cams
New Timing Kit including cam and crank gears
Cosworth 1.8mm Head Gasket
SR20VE Oil Pump with spacer
Pulsar GTIR Turbo Kit with manifold, journal bearing T28, and J-pipe
VDO Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Senders
Lightened Flywheel (13lb 1oz instead of the stock 18lb 9oz)
Action Clutch STAGE 3-1MS Clutch Kit
Autotech Motoring Oil Feed Line
650cc Sidefeed Injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
G Spec Performance Crank Pulley
JGY Water/PS/Alt Pulleys
2.5" IC Piping Kit
27"x7"x2.5" Front Mount Intercooler
JB Weld Stock Trans
- OEM valve cover Red
- Upper Water Neck gloss White
- T28 compressor housing Red
If you want my suggestion to keep costs down, it's this:
Don't turbo your current engine. There are too many knock-on costs of doing this. For a budget build you shouldn't need to get a tunable ECU, which can cost half the price of a swap alone.
For a budget SR20DET FWD, buy a swap with OEM ECU and the Fueling/Air Metering components that match what the ECU expects.
Don't get me wrong, I'm super excited to get my car up and running and really see how it goes. But! I think I could have scratched my itch for more power by going SR20VE and staying NA.