Nitrous Basics - SR20 Forum
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post #1 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Nitrous Basics

The purpose of this thread is to post all basic/pertinent information about using nitrous with the sr20. Everybody post stuff up as you think of it.
Hopefully this thread will help forum members when they first start researching nitrous and it will be a good reference to anyone else who may need it.


The Kinds of Nitrous Kits :

Wet Nitrous Kit :

Wet nitrous kits have a fuel solenoid and nitrous solenoid that allows for fuel to be sprayed along with nitrous. The fuel mixing with the nitrous allows for the motor to avoid running lean due to lack of fuel and it helps to prevent detonation. This is why you can typically run a larger wet shot on stock fuel delivery components then a dry shot.


Dry Nitrous Kit :

Dry nitrous kits have a nitrous solenoid that allows for a specified amount of nitrous to spray without the adding of fuel. This type of kit relies on stock fuel delivery (i.e. – injectors, fuel pump, exc…. ). When increasing shot size on a dry kit it is necessary to upgrade fuel delivery components to avoid detonation and eventual engine failure due to the motor running a lean condition.

Direct Port Kit :

Direct port kits run both nitrous and fuel to nozzles that have been tapped into the intake runners of the intake manifold. A direct port allows you to run a much larger shot then a wet or dry kit and it also allows for a much more equal distribution of nitrous to all the cylinders


Nitrous Accessories :

Bottle Warmer - Heats the nitrous bottle until the nitrous inside reaches a specified pressure at which the nitrous will produce power at it’s full potential.

Purge Kit - Allows the driver to "purge" the nitrous lines of all air and nitrous that was not completely used when the system was last used.

Window Switch – This device will only allow your nitrous to spray between a driver specified “window” in the rpm range. For example, if you select a beginning of 3500rpm and an ending of 8000rpm then the nitrous will only spray between 3500 and 8000 rpm’s. This tools can be used as a fail safe for lower shots making sure that you do not engage the nitrous at to low of an rpm. This is of greatest use to someone who runs a larger shot, particularly because the driver can make sure that they set the end of the window at a prior rpm to the fuel cut, so that they don’t accidentally continue spraying after they’ve reached fuel cut.

Bottle Blanket – Insulates the nitrous bottle to help maintain consistent temperature/pressure.

Blow Down Tube – This is an externaly vented tube that runs from the nitrous bottle to the outside of the vehicle. In the event that the bottle becomes to pressurized, a valve opens releasing the contents of the bottle through the tube. This is required at some tracks in order to use nitrous.

Nitrous Pressure Gauge – This gauge allows you to monitor your bottle pressure.

EGT Gauge – ( Exhaust Gas Temperature = EGT ) This gauge allows you to monitor your exhaust temp. This is a good indicator as to wether you need to let your motor cool before use or if it is alright to use your nitrous again. Helpful in prevention of overheating/overworking your motor.

A/F Gauge – ( Air / Fuel ) This gauge allows you to make sure that when using nitrous, that you do not run lean.

Progressive Controller - This allows a gradual increase in nitrous as your rpm’s increase. For example (keep in mind, this is hypothetical – not necessarily the rpm that you have to switch shot size at), to start you are spraying a 50 shot off the line, once you reach 4k rpms you are up to a 75 shot, once you reach 5.5k rpms you are up to a 100 shot and by redline you’re spraying a 125 shot. This “progressive” increase in nitrous allows you to run a large shot without putting sudden strain on your engine’s internals (especially on the connecting rods in the sr20’s case).

WOT Switch - ( Wide Open Throttle = WOT ) This switch will only allow nitrous to be sprayed when the throttle is wide open.


Miscellaneous Information :

Recommended Spark Plugs :

NGK BKR6E
NGK BKR7E
Gapping between .035 to .038 depending on size of shot.

Recommended Bottle Pressure :

1000 -1200 psi - Bottle is fully pressurized and will produce the best results.

600 - 700 psi - Bottle is nearly empty – Go refill.

Timing :

Retarding timing according to the shot size is necessary to avoid detonation. Below are the suggested timing retard settings according to the shot size. It is always a good idea to referance your kit’s manufacturer’s suggested timing information, but below is a general guideline of typical recommendations.

50 shot - 0 - 1 degree timing retard
75 shot - 2 degree timing retard
100 shot - 3 degree timing retard

1991 Classic SE-R
2003 VW GTI 1.8t



"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." - Edmund Burke

"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds ... " - Ralph Waldo Emerson

Last edited by 2xSE-R; 05-17-2004 at 12:26 PM.
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post #2 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Necessary Mods According to Shot Size :

50 Shot Wet :

No fuel delivery upgrades are needed. One step colder plugs are recommended.

50 Shot Dry :

Same as wet shot.

75 Shot Wet :

No fuel delivery upgrades are needed. Two step colder plugs are recommended.

75 Shot Dry :

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump is necessary. Two step colder plugs are recommended

100 Shot Wet :

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump is necessary. Two step colder plugs are recommended.

100 Shot Dry :

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump and 370 cc Injectors are necessary. Two step colder plugs are recommended. If you’re going to run a dry shot of this size it is a good idea to invest in a JWT 100 shot ECU. The JWT ECU is programmed to control the fuel and nitrous so that you don’t run lean. It will also adjust your timing once the nitrous system is engages. A Z32 MAF is also required with the JWT ECU upgrade.


*** NOTE ***

If you’re looking to spray larger then a 100 shot, a direct port is a good idea.
If you plan on running 100 shot then an aftermarket ignition that will automatically retard timing, or a JWT ECU is a good idea. That way your n/a performance does not suffer when you are not using the nitrous.

1991 Classic SE-R
2003 VW GTI 1.8t



"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." - Edmund Burke

"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds ... " - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #3 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Nitrous Basics

https://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....highlight=cams


This is a good thread regarding bolt ons and nitrous.

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2003 VW GTI 1.8t



"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." - Edmund Burke

"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds ... " - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #4 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 02:45 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Wow, that's a great write up. I don't have anything to add at the moment. Good job!!

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post #5 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 03:01 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Sticky material!!

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post #6 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 03:08 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

This could be a stickie. It answer me a few questions. THANKS!!!!

Nitrous with progressive controller, MSD digital 6, s4 cams, fidanza flywheel, UR pulley, p/s wliminator kit, B&M SS, 2.5 side exhaust, Weld rims, Hoosiers slicks, GC coilovers, eibach springs, Sparco seats, harness, Steering wheel, skinnies, Custom 6 puck clutch, lexan windows, Roll bar, aluminium dash, Kaminari body kit,

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post #7 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 03:11 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

i vote sticky
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post #8 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 05:06 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Sticky. I didnt even know you needed a z32 maf with the jwt setup. That shit gets more and more expensive, guess im going dp and progressive.

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post #9 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Nitrous Basics

^^^ I'm not completely sure that it's a necessity. All of the JWT 100 shot setups I've seen for sale have the Z32 MAF. I'm not sure if you can get to program from JWT without the MAF. I'll try and find out and then post back up.

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"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds ... " - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #10 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Current Nitrous Sources and Prices :


Jim Wolf Technology Nitrous Kit

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp

Dry Nitrous Kit Price - $595.00

ECU Upgrade - Contact JWT for price

Based on the information gathered from the web site, all fuel delivery upgrades must be bought separately. Fuel pump, injectors & MAF are not included.


Nitrous Express Nitrous Kits

Kits :

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/Home.htm

Wet Nitrous Kit Price - $775.00

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/Importmain.htm

Accessories :

Please reference web site for pricing on individual accessories.


NOS Nitrous Kits

http://www.holley.com/nosnitrous/index.html

Contact NOS/Holly for pricing information on kits and accessories pricing : 1-800-2HOLLEY


ZEX Nitrous Kits

http://www.zex.com/


Kits :

Wet Nitrous Kit Price - $663.00

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...de=Nissan-wKit

Dry Nitrous Kit Price - $611.94

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...de=Nissan-dKit


Accessories :

Zex Purge Kit - $113.28

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...ory_Code=82010

Zex Remote Bottle Opener - $249.28

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...ory_Code=82009

Zex Bottle Heater - $135.94

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...ory_Code=82006

Zex Purge Light - $67.94 - I had to add this !!!

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...egory_Code=PRG

Zex Bottle Pressure Gauge - $49.81

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...ory_Code=82005




There are several other brads of nitrous out there (i.e. – Nitrous Works, Venom, Edelbrock, exc……) and if you really want to know more about those brands – look them up! Nitrous Express, NOS, and ZEX are the most commonly used kits on sr20 powered vehicles.



Dyno Tune :

http://www.speedshop.org/

DynoTune is a nitrous oriented web site. This kit/accessories manufacturer seems to have some of the better prices in this market. Check them out – they’re an affordable alternative to the big name nitrous kit suppliers.
Reference site for specific product information and pricing.

1991 Classic SE-R
2003 VW GTI 1.8t



"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." - Edmund Burke

"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds ... " - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #11 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 05:05 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

[QUOTE=2xSE-R]Current Nitrous Sources and Prices :



Zex Purge Light - $67.94 - I had to add this !!!

http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv...egory_Code=PRG

A purge light...first time i seen that. way too many things for nitrous. makes me wanna just go turbo...but i already have most my stuff ready to roll with a 75 shot. should have it completed this weekend and then my ACT installed next weekend and will be spraying

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post #12 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-26-2004, 07:04 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

can the RPM window switch & the WOT work with each other?

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Re: Nitrous Basics

Yes they can. It's really the safest way to run a large shot, that way you'll only engage between a certain RPM range @ WOT - no chance for engine failure.

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post #14 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-17-2004, 10:16 AM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

You need to edit the info about the blow down tube. If the pressure gets above 3k psi the safety disc blows and the entire bottle will empty out through the blow down tube. If you don't have a blow down tube it will empty out into the car(WHICH SUCKS). I have done it twice.

93 [email protected] 5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, BC3 cams/gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, 333's, N60, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/sprung 6 puck, Fidanza, PR WAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires, ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Kinetik KR912, Axis maglites
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post #15 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-17-2004, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Quote:
Originally Posted by AaroNX
You need to edit the info about the blow down tube. If the pressure gets above 3k psi the safety disc blows and the entire bottle will empty out through the blow down tube. If you don't have a blow down tube it will empty out into the car(WHICH SUCKS). I have done it twice.
Better?

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post #16 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-17-2004, 09:50 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Yeah that's better. You should also mention the importance of nitrous filters.

93 [email protected] 5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, BC3 cams/gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, 333's, N60, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/sprung 6 puck, Fidanza, PR WAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires, ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Kinetik KR912, Axis maglites
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post #17 of 67 (permalink) Old 07-01-2004, 04:26 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Aaro I can't see why Nitrous emptying into your car wouold suck..LMAO..Can you say WHIPIT..lmao
Peace
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Re: Nitrous Basics

My carr ran 12.18 @112 mph with DP system no purge no RPM switch no progresive *** a straight 150 hp shot
HAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #19 of 67 (permalink) Old 07-01-2004, 11:08 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

Quote:
Originally Posted by NuggetMonkey
Aaro I can't see why Nitrous emptying into your car wouold suck..LMAO..Can you say WHIPIT..lmao
Peace
Jon

Well cause auto nitrous has SULFUR in it, and if you inhale enough it will kill you.

93 [email protected] 5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, BC3 cams/gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, 333's, N60, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/sprung 6 puck, Fidanza, PR WAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires, ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Kinetik KR912, Axis maglites
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post #20 of 67 (permalink) Old 07-01-2004, 11:12 PM
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Re: Nitrous Basics

I know dude..I was kidding
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