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I am buying a classic sentra SE-R with the intent of modifying it. My goal is only about 200 or so horsepower. How would I go about doing this and how much would it cost? Also can I get increased torque out of the car? Note: I CAN'T AFFORD A TURBO not yet at least...
broke assed college student
 

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pwnd
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Well hate to tell you this, but 200whp is next to impossible without a turbo. Well you might be able to get it NA but you are going to have to spend mundo $$$$$$$$$$$$. Going NOS might net you near 200 hp if you got a strong bolt on motor. Usualy bolt on motors will push about 146 whp or so then a safe 50 shot will get you right up there. But still thats a bit of money. s3 cams, CAI, header, exhaust, pullies, jwt nos computer, nos system. Thats going to run a pretty penny as well. But it will be safe, streetable, and reliable. Turbo will cost you probaly right around the same ammount or a tad more. Think Ben set his up for around 1500-2000 dollars. With no downpipe he is pushing over 200 whp. And its pretty easy to upgrade turbos. Its just do you want to go NA with a pretty linear powerbound, or a slightly peaky turbo. A small T25 gives you a pretty flat hp/torque band but still it is a turbo. A totaly different beast than NA. But why do you want 200hp?
 

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Bro ,let me tell you before I knew about turbo potential, I rebuilt my engine heavily with head work porting extruding and 4 angle valve jobs etc. the rebuild alone came out to over $6000 dollars without the other bolt ons I have now. I've raced type r's and won but didn't kill em'. 5.0's I've won but by no more than a car length. If I only spent the money on a turbo kit with more goodies damn! save for the turbo kit trust me I've driven a turbo se-r and it's no joke! it'll leave me by two or three cars easy with less $ invested!

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91 SE-R,10:1 comp.pistons,comp.4angle valve job,extrude honed heads/intake manifold,No emissions.crap,RC TB/MAF,nismo cams,UR pulleys,stillen4-1 ceram.header,nismo/centerforce dual fric.clutch,PR CAI,2 1/2 test pipe,mandrel 2 1/4 superturbo ex.,and a whole bunch of other goodies! boost is in the works ,hell yeah 3:16!
 
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thanks guys for the advice. I didn't realize the sr20de was designed for a turbo . My friend who has a turbo in his 90 something ford probe was telling me how much of a pain in the ass they are to install and so forth...
 

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pwnd
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Yea sr20de is pretty easy to turbo. Hardest thing is probaly drilling and tapping the block for an oil return line. Thats about it. Other than that it is more or less a bolt on situation. Bolt on manifold, bolt on turbo, run lines, run pipes, new injectors, new ecu, downpipe, and thats about it I think. Its not like throwing on an intake but not too much harder than a header, with a bunch of other little stuff
 
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i do agree that the sr20de is intended for turbo but you can get 200hp out of it w/o turbo. i had an all motor running 13.4's with all the bolt ons and custom hi comp pistons and port and polish. i am now running low 12's with turbo. i am also selling the motor. e-mail me with questions on motor or how to build it. i am a die hard nissan to the end. f*ck V-TEC!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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pwnd
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Well... any one know the stats on Kojima's beast motor? I can't remember it off the top of my head. But that isn't a cheap route and not one you can do yourself. It requires mucho labor costs at JWT mostly. Cadle's car pushed like 165 at the wheels with the C series cams and springs. But I got good money those will not be cheap, nor putting them in, changing springs isn't the funnest way to spend a weekend. Without either major rebuilding of almost every part of the engine, or NOS 200hp out of a NA motor is almost next to impossible.

On the flip side Ben has proven with less than 2000 bucks you can slap a BB DET manifold on a DE and with a good exhaust you will net 200whp(thats at the WHEELS just in case you didnt know
). And its been running for a couple months now with pretty long cruising streches in there. If I were to want no traction, thats what I would do. But I like keeping my wheels planted
 
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Thanks again for the advice. I am pretty new to this and want to get things right the first time.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bowlcut:
Well... any one know the stats on Kojima's beast motor?
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174 or so to the wheel, depending on state of tune.

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I can't remember it off the top of my head. But that isn't a cheap route
'Kojima' and 'cheap' go together like 'Naji' and 'Rational'.

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Cadle's car pushed like 165 at the wheels with the C series cams and springs.
168, to be precise. Don't cheat the last 3 hp, they were hard to come by :-0

168 whp ~ 190 crank, pretty close to your mark. This was with a gen 2 HS header (Gen 3 should be good for a couple more hp, Gen 4 maybe one or two more), and a stock untuned ECU (tuned should get another 2-3 hp). I think the car could pull off 170, maybe 172 if the sun, stars and moon were aligned right.

This is on my 2nd SR20, which is significantly weaker than my first one was. I think low 170's are possible with stock internals. You will hate the idle, though. The C-2's make 160 hp at the wheels, have a pretty good idle, and passed CA's stringent rolling dyno emissions test.

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But I got good money those will not be cheap,
Somewhere in the $1200-1300 neighborhood, including Titanium retainers that I don't have. :-( The price is very good when you figure that you are gaining 33 peak wheel hp. No other single mod even comes close (NA).

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nor putting them in, changing springs isn't the funnest way to spend a weekend.
It actually was not bad at all. It took us about 4-5 hours, including cams and springs, but if you don't have the right tools, you are screwed. The secret is having a valve spring compressor that will work with the head on the car.

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Without either major rebuilding of almost every part of the engine, or NOS 200hp out of a NA motor is almost next to impossible.
200 crank could be had with my motor, basic garage do-it-yourself porting and balancing, and 11:1 pistons. 200 wheel hp will require thousands and thousands of dollars more.
 

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I've read everyones comments regarding peak HP for NA/NISSAN SR20DE engines, and I can say that I am kinda confused as to exactly what type of HP my G20 might have now that I have most of the suggested bolt on mods. I know HP can vary from car to car and I have yet to have my ride dynoed. What would you guys say is a ruff guesstimate of the type of HP my car may have with my current mods. NO!..I did not added all the advertised increased HP that is told to you when you add a particular mod and come up with some unreal or untested HP. Help me out. What would you say my current HP is? My car is a G20/AUTO, also the heaviest SR20DE equiped car manufactured. I currently have the following mods: Stillen 4into1 header/intake JWT/ecu/S3cams/ Greddy/MX catback exhaust, 95,000 miles. I could use the feedback.

Nigel
95G20t/AUTO
 

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pwnd
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Oh lord look its the mighty monkey Rob on our board
. LOL didnt mean to short you out 3hp...I probaly was typing this in class for all I can remember. Dont have access to my email from here so didnt have the actual numbers for your car and Kojima's car.

So after seeing the Jizzmaster put down high numbers for his mods, you going to pull apart the intake and port it like he said he susposaly did? If I had an extra car and a grinder/drimel/drill I probaly would its free and if you dont go nuts probaly wont hurt anything. Im sure with some cleaning up of stuff you could probaly hit 170 at the wheels. Thats not too hard to get from mild porting of the intake and the exhaust. Hell dont you think its about time to pick up either that ECU or newer Header?
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bowlcut:

So after seeing the Jizzmaster put down high numbers for his mods, you going to pull apart the intake and port it like he said he susposaly did?
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HELL NO! NA cars suck. I have literally spent months trying to extract 2-3 hp out of the car. I'll be damned if I go into the motor to get 5 hp. Not worth it. I'm too lazy :)

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Hell dont you think its about time to pick up either that ECU or newer Header?
Nah, I keep saying that my current setup is just a beater setup until I get the turbo motor put together. I think I've been saying that for about 2 years now :)

Rob
 
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