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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my ECU back from JWT today so I went at it! Already had my new o-rings
for the injectors, Brandon Fujisage's instructions for the ECU harness
rewiring, and a picture of the wiring harness with numbers from Courtesy
since they were not able to get my FSM to me in a timely manner. (Courtesy
kicks ass!)

So I go at it. Disconnect everything I can from the top half of the intake
manifold- wiring connectors, vacuum lines, accelerator and cruise control
cables, man there is a lot of **** on there! =) Undid the upper intake
manifold bolts and removed the upper manifold. Well, sorta unattached it and
pulled it back a bit. Didn't have EVERYTHING off of it, but enough that I
could move it out of the way and get at the injectors.

DOH! Realized I forgot to relieve the fuel pressure. Ah well, too late to go
back. Remembering ya'lls instructions that "You HAVE to remove the fuel
rail, THEN get the injectors out" as well as my Haynes manual and copied FSM
instructions from Courtesy from a 99 manual (did I mention they kick ass?)
ALL said to remove the fuel rail. Looked at it, looked at it some more, my
dad says "Why are you going to take that whole thing off? Looks like the
injectors are right there ready for the pickin." He was right. Got a
phillips bit on a small socket wrench and removed the first injector. BTW if
you are trying to push in the removal tab for the electrical connector on
the injector, push the connector DOWN on injector plug as much as possible
so that the removal tab doesn't bind. (thanks dad for that tip =) )
Unscrewed the two screws on the injector holder, twisted a little bit, and a
little yanking and POP it came out. Maybe half a teaspoon of fuel with it.

Wasn't this supposed to be harder? =)

Put fresh Mobil 1 on the 370cc and popped it right in. Put the cover back on
and tighened her down. The rest were as easy =)

Since I was going to use the TB coolant bypass mod to feed my BB T25
coolant, I went ahead and snipped off that center section of hose that was
under the TB that coolant went thru and stuck a nice fat bolt in each end.
Put the manifold back in place, hooked everything back up, and that part was
done.

Now for the scary part- snipping and splicing a few wires to adapt the 95-97
JWT ECU for my 98. Went out and bought some insulated alligator clips to
splice on there to make it easy in case I ever want to go back to the
original ECU. EVER so carefully found the correct wires, said a prayer
before every snip, and spliced them on. The last wire (wire attached to pin
63) was a real bitch about stripping the sheathing off. It would rip the
inside wires with it when I pulled. After the 3rd try I was able to keep all
the wires inside intact (I think) and splice that alligator clip on there.
Connected them all and said another prayer. Did make one boo-boo though.
While cutting away a little of the harness wrapping I snipped some solid
gray wire. DOH! I had a normal splice and spliced her back together. Bleh.

Couldn't get the harness connector backing on all the way with the added
volume of those alligator clips, but got it most of the way on and screwed
her in and put her back where she belonged.

Connected the battery back up, said 3-4 prayers, and started her up. Smooth
running. =) I take her out for a spin. Gee, my tach shows 8k now at the rev
limiter, nice. =) I still have it at 19 degrees since the 9.5:1 turbo
program sucks away timing a bit, and it felt GOOD, a bit better than before
I think. On my way back home I got an SES light. Damn. JWT put some
resistors in to kill off the EGR and rear O2 sensor, but they couldn't
guarantee keeping away SES lights. Ah well. The price for power I guess.

Got home and I could hear sizzling and a little smoke. My TB coolant bypass
job apparently wasn't good enough. Dad said "You just put screws in them?
That's under pressure- liquid is just going to come out the threads." Ah,
ok. Live and learn. So we painstakingly added hose clamps over the screws
and well as readjusted the hose position on the hard line, and after about
an hour's work no more coolant leaks we could see.

Finally got a chance to pull the SES code. It was 0707, rear O2. Damn. Guess
I'll have to live with that unless anyone has any tricks to kill that code?
Jay H? Lew? Brandon?

Man the SR20DE sounds like I hollow vibrating hunk of metal at 7100+ RPM. It
sounds mean at 5-6k but above 7k I dunno. Reminds me of my buddies Civic Si
with short ram Injen intake. I guess that will be remedied with a turbo. =)
Now to see if I can go drag racing again and not have to shift to 4th and
see what times I can pull =)

Ben Davis
98 Sentra SE
Turbo Install, Stage I- COMPLETE
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Man, this was really the HARD part of the install. All I have left is to bolt the turbo manifold w/T25 on, bolt the downpipe on, hook up the oil and coolant lines, put in the IC and turbo piping, and that's it! This Friday I'm redoing the oil pan AGAIN, this time with a different pan Mike Jez gave me off his assortment of broken DETs
so hopefully that should kill my slow oil leak problems. Also going to do the homemade motor mounts. Got the Flexane 94 sitting in my garage now.

I'm thinking I could do the same thing for the turbo install. I have nothing on Friday until 5PM, then nothing on Saturday til 4PM. I could drive my dad's car to work Friday night and finish up anything left unfinished on Saturday. Get it done BEFORE Thanksgiving so I could take those off days and relax, or go on a trip or something. ALL I need now is pressure hose, turbo piping couplers, and some hose clamps. THAT'S IT! I've got everything else. Maybe I'll just get it over with in next weekend, who knows
Then I could head to Nashville over Thanksgiving and play with Eric's dyno
 

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who at courtesy kicks ass?
good to hear that you are having a pretty easy time at doing this. I see people taking a few weeks and or months at doing this and you are doing it in (total time) a weekend. makes me wanna do one.
 
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