[Chris Garrison]

has anyone out there done there own cam swap in to a newer se-r? if so write me back, and give me an idea of what it takes, 3 hour job, or 1 week job?

 

[eric96ser]

I'm down to 1 hour, 1 1/2 if I take my time.

 

[PlanoSER]

James Vick, a member on this forum, did it for me in a few hours. He was very thorough tho and took his time. I wouldnt really want to rush a cam job if I were you but 1 hour thats impressive dude.

 

[ProjectSE-R]

YEs, oh god please take your time and remember that the torque numbers for the bearing cap bolts are in INCH POUNDS, not foot pounds. I made the mistake of tightening the #1 to 52 ft/lbs and snapped the bitch off and ultimately had to redrill the hole and use a helicoil and new stainless grade 8 bolt. Just follow that and youll be spiffy. Also use zip ties to hold the chain to the gears so timing doesnt jump!

------------------
95 200SX SE-R--> Hot Shot CAI, Custom Apexi Cat Back, ST Shifter & G4 Hotshot Headers, Viteks and Iridium, B&G springs, 91 Cams, NOS 50 Shot, 17" Konig Tantrums wrapped in Nitto's, a bunch of stiffening and look good crap, JWT CPU COMING SOON!

 

[AntonioG]

There's some REALLY good instructions on se-r.net archives. Search for "cam install Hassinger" and you'll find what you're looking for. If you can do a header, you can do a cam swap. Time? I'd give myself a whole day, since stuff may not go as planned, but it should take about 2-3 hrs for your first time if everything goes right.

Good luck!

------------------
Antonio Garcia
91 SE-R w/ lots of stuff
a slow [email protected] on JWT 50 shot
Bay Area, CA

 

[Black200sxSER]

Make sure you have all the right wrenches (torque wrench, 1 inch wrench)and RTV too, before you start...good time to think about what to do to the valve cover too...while it is off.

------------------

Brad B. 96 SE-R
PR CAI,HS Gen 4,GReddy Catback, ACT HD S/S,ES motor mnts,1.8 dropw/AGX's,F&R STB's,19 deg timing,91 intake cam,NGK wires,ALT 159's, 205/40/17 Kumho 712's,SMC short shifter,Autometer tach,factory armrest, Royal Purple synthetics..AND A VANILLA AIR FRESHENER!

 

[Andreas Miko]

I do the cams by hand with no torque wrench. I have done over 40 cam instales and have had no problems yet.

 

[Black200sxSER]

Cool

..but would you "recommend" a guy who has never done it not use a torque wrench the first time..?

------------------

Brad B. 96 SE-R
PR CAI,HS Gen 4,GReddy Catback, ACT HD S/S,ES motor mnts,1.8 dropw/AGX's,F&R STB's,19 deg timing,91 intake cam,NGK wires,ALT 159's, 205/40/17 Kumho 712's,SMC short shifter,Autometer tach,factory armrest, Royal Purple synthetics..AND A VANILLA AIR FRESHENER!

 

[eric96ser]

The only part I use a torque wrench on is the cam sprocket bolt. With the others, I use the FSM tightening order and snug them up. The torque rating for the cam journal bolts is like 52 in-lbs. Just use the FSM order and take your time if you have never done one before. Remember that you are pushing some valves down when you tighten the bolts, so do them in steps so you don't break the cam or any bolts.

 

[CharlieH98]

I put a 91 cam on my 98 last week. I got the cam from Andreas.
Here's what I did:
1. Pull the valve cover and "dodads" in the way. Just pull the spark plug wires off the plugs and fold them back. Zip tie the throttle cable out of the way. Basic socket set will do it.
2. Pull the spark plugs and rotate the crank to set the motor to TDC. TDC mark on the crank pully should be straight up and the #1 piston on the compression stroke. See Naji's site a pic of the cam positions. I think I used a 1" socket to turn the crank or you can spin the wheels with it in gear and up on stands. If you're just doing the intake cam, maybe you can skip this step. But, still not a bad idea to have it at TDC.
2. Put zip ties on the cam gears. 2 each.
3. Remove cam sprocket from intake cam only. 1" wrench and 24mm socket.
4. Remove the cam journals and spray bars. Keep this stuff in order!
5. Install the cam with oil on it and the journals. Tighten it from the middle out. X pattern. Slowly bring them all down snug at the same time. Torque to 8 ft/lb. Torque wrench is $20. Get one.
5. Remove the oil filter and chain tensioner.
6. Release the rachet on the tensioner, push it back in and hook it. You'll see what I mean.
7. Install the cam gears and torque the cam bolt. 80-90 ft/lb.
8. Install the tensioner.
9. Install the oil filter.
10. Remove the zip ties.
11. Rotate the engine by hand. Cams moving ok? Slack out of the chain?
12. Install Valve cover use a little sealant per Naji's site
13. Install the plugs, wires, and "dodads"
14. Fire it up.
15. Enjoy the ride

Cheers,
Charlie
------------------
98 200SX Superblack, HSG2 CAI GC/KYB ACTSS UR 91cam


[This message has been edited by CharlieH98 (edited 10-17-2001).]

 

[eric96ser]

You instructions are great, but the order is not right. You have to remove the chain tensioner BEFORE you remove the can gear and the cam. If you don't, you run the risk of the chain slipping and the timing might be off. Its cheap insurance to remove the tensioner before the cam is touched. I usually loosen the cam gear bolt, then remove the tensioner.

 

[Jaketips42]

well you have helped me out, i will be doing this soon enough

 

[Storm88000]

2. Pull the spark plugs and rotate the crank to set the motor to TDC. TDC mark on the crank pully should be straight up and the #1 piston on the compression stroke. See Naji's site a pic of the cam positions. I think I used a 1" socket to turn the crank or you can spin the wheels with it in gear and up on stands. If you're just doing the intake cam, maybe you can skip this step. But, still not a bad idea to have it at TDC.

IMO this step is not neccesarry for just the intake cam installation, *especially* the deal about removing the spark plugs - I have no idea where that came from.

 

[Crono1321]

Its because when you remove the spark plugs its easier to turn the motor over by hand.

 

[Justin]

Its because when you remove the spark plugs its easier to turn the motor over by hand.

Yeah I just did mine a few days ago, its real easy. i didnt remove my tensioner though, i made that little wood block the JWT show on their website, and liek 4 zip ties per cam sprocket. I also removed the spark plus and rotated the engine to TDC. However, I had the EXACT smae problem that the otehr guy up there had, I brok the #1 bolt off in the head, not becasue I was in FT-LBS, I was in INCH-LBS, but my TQ wrench messed up and didnt click. So I had to do the whole helicoil deal too. if you need any help, you can PM me.

 

[Crono1321]

I have done the wood block twice, once for the JDM cam, once for the s4's. I love this method and its easier than loosening the chain tensioner. Wood block>me.

Justin

 

[SE-R-2-Go]

wow this is like the oldest post brought back to life.

 

[Storm88000]

Its because when you remove the spark plugs its easier to turn the motor over by hand.

OK, but I don't see how that is worth the trouble to attach a socket to the crank and turn it clockwise a bit

 

[SE-R-2-Go]

If you don't have a 27mm socket then it's worth the trouble.

 

[Storm88000]

If you don't have a 27mm socket then it's worth the trouble.

Alright, gotcha. I was assuming everyone had as many tools as I do.