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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the differnce between advancing and retarding the timing. Waht does each do. a friend of mine did my advanced timing but im real suree what that does. And waht does retarding it do?

Thanks
Dan
 

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BASICALLY,
If you advance it, you're in advanced class.

If you retard it, then you are a retard.



kinda like righty tighty, lefty loosey type deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
u just replied so u could use those faces didnt u. hehe. Hey when we going to meet to man. I would like to poke around at ur car and steal stuff.
 

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CHECK OUT MY NEW SMILEY MOVIE!!!! I AM SMILIE-MAN!!!!

Bro, if you steal anything steal my whole car!!;)
Its falling apart!!!
Nowbody is seeing it till I get my new clutch from Clutchmast.........ooops.........from this one place I know.
 

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Fast91SER said:
did you make that smiley movie?!

you are a pimp! :D
Are you shittin me , I never even passed pre-algebra!!!
But I passed English with honors!!!! woohooo!!!!!

I may not always know the mathematical problem, but I sure do know how to talk my way around it.

BLING BLING!!!!
 

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jo mom
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Well i can say advancing the timing on my car from 14 to 16-17 has done nothing.

Now i get worse mpg, but who knows why.

I guess i need to practice the art of wishful thinking and let myself fall victim to the power of suggestion along with mind over matter oh and the concept of group think.
 

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dweed said:
What is the differnce between advancing and retarding the timing. Waht does each do. a friend of mine did my advanced timing but im real suree what that does. And waht does retarding it do?

Thanks
Dan
I not sure if your question is a serious one but here goes anyway.

Basically if you advance your timing you allow your engine more time to burn the fuel & air completely. Our cars should be set at 15 degrees before TDC (Top Dead Center) from the factory. With this setting the plugs fire 15 degrees before the piston is all the way up. If you advance it to 17 degrees to have 2 more in which to burn the fuel. Now the down side to this is as you advance your timing YOU MUST increase your octane level of the fuel you run. If you do not you will get knock or detonation.

When you retard it works the same just in the other direction. you could run less octane.

Regardless of what some people think Octane does not increase horsepower in itself. It is only a burn suppressant, more of it is needed when your timing is advanced because the heat of the cylinder walls can ignite the gas before the spark plugs fire. This is what detonation or knock is.

P.S. The octane level in fuel will drop as the fuel gets older. So these mini-marts (no-name gas) sell it cheap because usally it is old.

Sorry for the long post people, just thought I could help.
 

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employment whiplash, NC
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Ralph pretty much has it right. More info: The Classic is designed to run on 87 octane and the FSM states the timing setpoint is 15 +/- 2 degrees. So you can run 17 degrees safely on 87 octane with the stock ECU.
 

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not saying that this is true or not...but it is backed up with dyno evidence....

i believe that not the most recent C+D, but the one previous to it....the one with the SE-R Spec V comparo...had an article about octane ratings.

in some vehicles, HP could actually increase at some point on the powerband if premium instead of regular is used...usually on lower-tech engines. i.e. pushrod V8's. However, on a V6 Accord vtec, HP actually decreased, although minimally when octane was increased.

i didn't go thoroughly through the article, but i thought it could be interesting if i had the time to look at it carefully.
 
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