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MECP Master Installer
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of replacing my leaking timing chain cover, and seeing as I couldn't find anything on it in the technical section, wanted to see if anyone has done it and had some helpful tips to make it go smoother.

I'm trying to do it without dropping the engine (seeing as my engine stand is currently occupied). I'm working on the oil pans today, but looking at the 10mm bolts on the cover, it seems ominous to try and get them off. If anyone has any tips, it'd be greatly appreciated! :biggthump
 

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NX Lightweight Not SE-R
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are you talking about the plastic thing behind the front cover/oil pump or the front cover. you know you need to remove the motor mount there right? either way have fun ive done and redone it a few times in the car it sucks messing with the front cover and no space
 

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i answered a similar question of "how do i replace my oil pump?" from a different user and this is what i said. it is the same process you will have to go through.

do it from below. do not take off the head. jack up the car, remove wheel, lining for fender, alt and waterpump belts. support engine and remove crossmember. remove passanger side motormount and let the engine hang down a bit(this will help you see what you are doing). support the engine with a jack under the a/c bracket to not put too much strain on the only mount holding your engine in the car which is the tranny mount. remove upper and lower oil pans. remove passangerside motor mount bracket from engine. now you will have the oil pump/front cover exposed. now you can remove the 10mm bolts from the front cover. remove the 3 10mm bolts from the top of the front cover that go through the head.(one of them is under the water neck). with all this done, now you can remove the front cover. if you gently slide a couple flat tiped screwdrivers between the front cover and the block in evenly spaced places, you will be able to pry it away from the block. installation is the opposite, and should go fairly fast now that you have seen what the disassembly consist of. a few notes on this whole ordeal is that when you go to install the new pump, it might be a good idea to remove the oil pump spacer form the crank and reinstall it after the front cover has been reinstalled on the block. by doing this it will allow you to install the front cover at an angle so you do not rip the head gasket. note: if you buy a new oil pump it will come with a new front cover.
good luck.
 

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AWD owns me
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Yeah, just don't put rtv on the o-ring. Pretty simple job. Just nuts and bolts man.
 

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MECP Master Installer
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
yeah, that's pretty much the process I was looking at. I got a new cover ready to go in complete with pump and all. Dropping the pass motor mount wasn't something I thought of doing, but with good support I guess it'll help see the bolts. Just need to find a different spot to support it seeing I don't have a/c anymore.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll let you know how it goes, or if i f*ck up anything ;)

Jaketips42: which o-ring are you referring to? not like i'm looking to try it, just want to make sure I know....
 

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NX Lightweight Not SE-R
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i didn't have the trans jack thing just a spare jack and a block of wood. so after i pulled the oil pans i put the crossmember back on, moving the motor as needed with the jack and the block o wood. make sure you get all the oil and old rtv out of there, and strictly follow the rtv instuctions, if it is cold that stuff never dries.

make sure with the upper oil pan you get those 2 little 8mm screws by the trans. if you forget about them you will have a future need to replace the rear main seal.
 

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MECP Master Installer
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Discussion Starter #8
make sure with the upper oil pan you get those 2 little 8mm screws by the trans. if you forget about them you will have a future need to replace the rear main seal.
What's the best way to grab those guys? Seems like there's no room there to get 'em. Last time I had the tranny off, that made it easier.
 

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get a sacrificial 10mm wrench and grind it down around the box end. you can even heat it up with a torch and bend it in a vice to help. take your time, they will also come out using other methods.
 

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yeah, that's pretty much the process I was looking at. I got a new cover ready to go in complete with pump and all. Dropping the pass motor mount wasn't something I thought of doing, but with good support I guess it'll help see the bolts. Just need to find a different spot to support it seeing I don't have a/c anymore.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll let you know how it goes, or if i f*ck up anything ;)

Jaketips42: which o-ring are you referring to? not like i'm looking to try it, just want to make sure I know....
I'm assuming he means this one
 

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MECP Master Installer
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Discussion Starter #14
ah, that o-ring. I thought that was common knowledge...? the FSM even tells you not to RTV it in big bold letters. :tongue:
 

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Jaketips42: which o-ring are you referring to? not like i'm looking to try it, just want to make sure I know....

There is an o-ring between the front cover and the block to seal it. Part number is (15066-4J600-) for the b14. You might want to order one before you begin. The rest of the front cover is sealed with RTV.

Mike
 

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MECP Master Installer
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Discussion Starter #16
yup, got it already. just out of curiosity, how hard is it to RTV that area with the engine still in?
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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I just read a thread about an Oil Leak and a few others dealing with the front cover. I read one with the title "Front Cover Removal", and the folks on it describe the steps leading up to removing the front cover and go on about how it would be best to drop the engine and such, but they never say how to break the rtv silicone seal that actually seals the front cover from oil leaks, the whole reason this fellow decided to go about trying to remove the front cover.
Do you happen to know the best way to separate the front cover from the oil pan and block?
I mean specifically where to insert a flat spatula or tool to break the silicone seal without marring the mating surfaces involved.
I don't see any sort of lip or leverage point on which to pry. I have removed all of the 10mm bolts holding othe cover onto the block, but the RTV silicone is strong and won't give. WHERE SHOULD I BEGIN TO SEPARATE THE COVER FROM THE BLOCK?? I imagine a paint scraper tool will be inserted in the joint BUT WHERE SHOULD I START SO AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE MATING SURFACES INVOLVED?

Thanks a lot !

UPDATE:
Beware of the upper-leftmost bolt that fastens the front cover to the block. It is easy to miss. There are ten 10mm bolts with permanent lockwashers on their shanks that fasten around the border of the front cover. There are also two other, slightly longer, 10mm bolts (without lock washers) that attach inside the top of the front cover. You will have removed 12 bolts in total when the cover is ready to be removed via cutting the RTV silicone. I used a paint scraper tool and started at the cover's base, where it meets the block, inserting it and tapping lightly with a hammer to make sure it had entered the crack. Try not to pry against either of the mating surfaces.
 
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