[codyace]

No inherent signs of damange coming. Was headed to a car meet with some buddies...friend of mine was in front, and floored his car. I went to get play tag. I was in the top of 3rd gear, went to shift into 4th....and that was it. It felt like clutch slipped. I pulled it back in N, only to see that my car had shut off. WTF.

I thought I blew in an intercooler hose (which would be my first ever, in 3 years with a turbo car (between altima, and this thing). No dice. I did however manage to start the car up and drive off the next exit.

I sprayed carb cleaner everyhwere, trying to find a leak....to only find none. Luckily Ray was on his way down to dinner in the area, and he was able to swing by to see. He immediatly pulled power to coil pack one, to notice no change in the engine. We then swapped coilpacks, only to find the same result. Even changed sparkplug with no dice. No signs of coolant usage, or coolant loss. ****.

So I go eat with them at the Texas Roadhouse (excellent!) and come home, and we give it a compression test asap. No compression at all in Cyl 1.

The next day I did a leak down test, and it was apparent that I had no valve problems...as air cam out of the timing chain area.

So out comes the motor, and the teardown begins.

I get the head off, and then see my problem...piston one decided to melt. Ontop of that, the block was ****, as the preigniton/detonation decided to eat through my linre and into the block. It would be perfect for somone looking to go Big mm sleeve tho!

No audible detonation sounds, and certianly no misfire problems. Cause could be attributed to a few things:
1. The intake gromet popping out, running cylinder lean
2. Injector breaking
3. Crappy Gas (which could be true, as they were chaning over mixtures at that point)

So since then, I've started my new build. CP 8.5 86mm slugs, actually using my aquamist, added a second Walbro inline pump. Motor will be getting cam gears, and is being put back together just like she was. ECU is back at JWT for adding the water map, launch control, and possible 4 bar setup. I plan on keeping my boost levels the same, but maybe cranking it a bit on dyno..I'd LOL at a 420whp/350 trq 2871 .64 graph, but would love just to get my 400/330 back

As of today, engine is assembled. Awaiting my ECU, and my tranny to come back from the tranny shop (input shaft bearing was noisey)

 

[NX$paniard]

well at least your work bench is nice and organized

sucks about the blown motor, but looks like your coming back the right way...

 

[codyace]

well at least your work bench is nice and organized

Don't even get my started with that. It seems like whenver I need to use the bench, 3 othre projects are going on at once between my brothers and I...I just get mad, clear **** outa the way, and use old beer case boxes as my bench heh.

 

[Nismo_Freak]

I'd be pretty leery of putting that rod back in the engine knowing it was hammered on by detonation.

 

[AG>SR]

...I was about to ask about that /\/\.....did the pin come out of that one easier than the others?........tough break, nice recovery.......

 

[coach]

Yeah, rods aren't that expensive to get new. It is funny how people go top dollar for CP and Pauter and other rods but won't go for rods.

Brent

 

[SR20Turbofreak]

yeah, rods are cheap insurance.

the BC H beams, made by scat are lighter than eagles and supposed to be stronger. they are $350 plus shipping, maybe $10.

You said you are going to use the .64 turbine housing, I'd suggest the .86 atleast.

Part of the problem that happened to your piston last time was not being able to get heat out of the engine. Thats usually what kills these things really fast. If you went to a larger turbine wheel or housing, you would be less likely to have that happen.

 

[Rockwood]

Yep, you're far more likely to explode with a small housing turbo, especially if you're trying to run lots of boost out of it...

How much boost were you running anyway?

 

[codyace]

I'd be pretty leery of putting that rod back in the engine knowing it was hammered on by detonation.

They are different rods from another shortblock I had...had everything fluxed for cracks, as well as everythign checked out for oblong...nothing fishy.

...I was about to ask about that /\/\.....did the pin come out of that one easier than the others?........tough break, nice recovery.......

All taken to the machine shop to be pressed on/off. New Wrist pins/bushings

Yeah, rods aren't that expensive to get new. It is funny how people go top dollar for CP and Pauter and other rods but won't go for rods.
Brent

400 hp is the level I'm staying at. I could (in the grand scheme) kept stock. For HPDE days the car sees 12/14 psi (Unless Dominno drives, then its' 16 lol)

the BC H beams, made by scat are lighter than eagles and supposed to be stronger. they are $350 plus shipping, maybe $10.

I won't run BC stuff ever. To many discrepancies, to many destruction stories, not enough positive ones.

You said you are going to use the .64 turbine housing, I'd suggest the .86 atleast.

.86 housing sucks ass....they are 'laggy' for t2 turbos, and spool later than oldschool 50 trim t3/t4 setups. I love the .64 as it spools equal the 28rs, and gives slightly more top end.

Part of the problem that happened to your piston last time was not being able to get heat out of the engine. Thats usually what kills these things really fast. If you went to a larger turbine wheel or housing, you would be less likely to have that happen.

I am running cam gears in the new engine (per a PM to Kojima) as well as Aquamist this time around.

I've gotten a tank of crappy gas before from the palce I did, so I have no clue why I went back there either....

How much boost were you running anyway?

20 psi. I've been running 20 now since a year ago, but typically run the car at 14 psi when putting around. 20 psi only comes out occasionally for fun, but I can say I've had alot of late night running at 20 psi (I know Street Racing is gay, blah blah)