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Discussion Starter #1
sorry if this question is repetitive .. but is it really encesary to add synthetic oil to my motor?

i dont race or drive it hard (atleast not that much)

i shift at 3500 and redline the sucker a couple of times a day... nothing drastic.

is there going to be any noticable difference? would you recommend it?
 
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if you want to keep the engine forever, sure. The 2 down sides I found to synthetic (which I use. Mobil 1) are price and the fact that it is a smaller molecule, thus can create a leak that was not there previously. Castrol Syntec is not a synthetic based oil. It happens to be the smallest petroleum based molicule on the market, but not a true Synthetic base. I used Syntec for most of the cars life and I noticed that it became burn very quickly. Sign of a patroleum base. If you want ot spend the aditional cash, got synthetic.
Nissan note of the day: Only use Nissan oil filter. Other brands can cause oil starvation at high reves.
 

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I would try the Mobil 1 semi-synthetic oil first to make sure nothing leaks. Once you go synthetic, you can't go back though, so you might want to keep that in mind.

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Eric Waterman
1996 200SX SE-R
1997 200SX SE-R
1991 Sentra SE-R
 

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pwnd
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Actualy Eric Ive heard the exact oppsite from various mechanics, engineers, oil producers and such. That the old thing about going synthetic and not able to go back was from the old days when they added various things to the oil. That the dyno oil didnt have and acted very bad with. Ive heard you can switch back and forth till your heart is content. But usualy once you do switch very rarely do you go back.
 

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JordanWhiteMusic.com
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You can do whatever you want. If you couldn't go back to regular oil after using synthetic, then there would be no such thing as synthetic blends. You can mix 2 Mobil-1 quarts and 2 crappy 78 cents a quart oil and your car will be fine.

I just like the added insurance Mobil-1 gives you. Plus, you can really go 5,000 miles between changes on that stuff. It doesn't break down.

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Jordan White (Stormy)
'98 SE(R) w/ HS CAI, HS G3 Header, JWT s4 Cams, UR Pulleys, KYB AGX's, Eibach Sportlines, Courtesy STB's, ES Mounts, ES Bushings, PWST X-Drilled Rotors w/ Axxis MM Pads, 17" Borbet Type S's w/ 205/40 Kumhos, Nis-Knacks goodies

'98 VR6, stock (the womans car)
 
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HAIL MOBIL 1.... I switched and am in love. The all time winner. I pay the bucks and use nothing but Mobil 1 now. It dropped my 1/4 mile time by 2 seconds..... ahhh, yah.
 

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my mobil 1 comes out *alomst* as clan as the day i put it in, dino oil didnt. My engine idles smoother since i put it in. I dont have ot worry if i go over 3k miles between changes and it keeps the engine a few degrees cooler than dino.

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Ryan Walsh, 1997 200sx SE-R w/ ES mounts, JWT s4's, AEBS 4-1, PR CAI, Sportlines/AGX's, Bridgestone re730's, Matrix FSTB, Stillen GTR grill
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cossie:

Nissan note of the day: Only use Nissan oil filter. Other brands can cause oil starvation at high reves.
</font>
I used the K&N Oil Filter, heard any bad things about it. It looks to be well constructed.

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Art R.
1992 Sentra SE-R
SCCA Solo II Driver
Cal Club #823 E Stock
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cossie:
Castrol Syntec is not a synthetic based oil. It happens to be the smallest petroleum based molicule on the market, but not a true Synthetic base. B]</font>


What about Castrol Fully synthetic? Is that not a true synthetic oil? This is what I have been using.



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Kris94G20™
"clears and stickers, the best bang for your buck"
The Beginning.
 

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About not switching back to synthetic, what about the winter cars and the north east boys. That oil is bad in the winter cause it can't get up as fast as regular oil, but my next change will be full synthetic though. Anybody have anything to say about that cause i'm not too sure I would go back to regular oil then in that case.

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Peter
..on AIM = NyceP26
97 200SX SE-R
PR CAI,JWT ECU (with correct timing now @ 15TDC),91 INTAKE CAM,
KYB AGX,EIBACH SPORTLINE,
FSTB, F/R X-DRILLED ROTORS,
 

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www.motorists.org
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AFAIK, Mobil 1 oil filter internals=K&N oil filter internals. The K&N is just rebranded and they got that cool hex socket usable end on there.

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Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO
 

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Here in RI I have no problem with running RedLine 10w30 or even 5w30

This is their propaganda:

Red Line 10W30: Best all-weather viscosity grade for gasoline engines in cars and light trucks that are driven on the street on a daily basis. Best all-round, synthetic oil for stock or slightly modified engines in high- performance cars that are street-driven. Best choice to replace a 5W-30 or 10W-30, petroleum-based or other-brand synthetic oil if maximum durability is preferred. Acceptable for engines that are occasionally operated in extreme cold weather.

It is nice stuff, And if you buy it by the gallon jug size I think it is cheaper than Mobil.


Nothing against Mobil, I used it in my first SE-R! Great stuff. But check out redlineoil.com yourself.

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"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."
 
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Red Line cheaper then Mobil 1??? Where are you buying from. I want some.
"Trys_Hard"
The only danger with using after market oil filters is there membrane density. Some can be to confining and slow oil at high RPM thus the oil goes through the bypass and less is filtered. If you run super high RPM all the time, I would say use a thin oil 5/30 etc..., otherwise don't bother. 10/30 or 10/40 are great for spirited driving of street cars with after market filters.
"kbslacker"
Castol Full Synthetic is a Petrolium based oil!!! By government standards, a high % of an oil has to have synthetic additives etc... to be classifide as Full Synthetic. I was a bit pissed, ok real pissed, when I found out that the "Syntec" I was using for 7 years was a petrolium based oil. It happens to be the best and most refined petrolium based out there. I always wondered why it baked as fast as all the pertrolium based stuff I had used on my other cars. Mobil 1 does not bake for quite a long time. In defence of Syntec, it's a larger molecule then synthetic based oils so you stand less of a chance of engine oil leaks. Change Syntec ever 3,000 miles.
"NyceP26"
I have never heard of Synthetics being bad in the cold. I have a home in N.H. (bleedin cold) and have never had problems using a 5/30 synthetic oil. Maybe there's something I'm missing about synthetics in cold climates (???). I always use proper oil weight depending upon climate.
"Horus"
Ok... gimme some of the Red Line. Great stuff. It's a tough tossup for me.... Red Line (which I pay more for) or Mobil 1. Both winners.
 

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I haven't bought it in a while (Mobil1). Your right! Mobil $4+/qt. RedLine $7+/qt.

Sorry to give you that cossie, I didn't do my homework.
 
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