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Discussion Starter #1
Do they work on our cars?
How do they work...

What I mean is I see all those lines on our cars...like the Rad and tranny oil cooler, they are all rigged with jo blo hose clamps onto...how do we thread those braided line collars onto the cooler or say the rad?...cuz the part where the hose goes into the rad is got no threads on it...how does it work? Fittings?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
They work well.... real nice. Call SMC or Options. SMC is one of manufactures. Steves a nice bloke. Lots of colors to choose from.
 

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JordanWhiteMusic.com
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I would like a set but I'm not 100 clear on the install. I recently put my own X-drilled rotors and pads on myself last week so the lines can't be much harder.

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Jordan White (Stormy)
'98 SE(R) w/ HS CAI, HS G3 Header, Custom 2.25" Exhaust, JWT s4 Cams, UR Pulleys, KYB AGX's, Eibach Sportlines, Courtesy STB's, ES Mounts & shifter bushing, PWST X-Drilled Rotors w/ Axxis MM Pads, 17" Borbet Type S's w/ 205/40 Kumhos, Nis-Knacks goodies
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I believe Matt was reffering to the braided hose kits that go ove the radiator hoses and stuff, you know thew dress up kit.
 

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Stuck on an island
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umm there are some that just slip over your old hoses and make it look pritty but it dosnt do any thing as far as i know ? as for some thine that go on the rad like screwing on it's probly just a caller that gets tite and squishes the rubber on the rad in/outlet or just pops over to cover a clamp ? im just guessing never had a close look at one.

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92 NX2000, kyb agx, intrax springs, jwt pop,
3a Racing muffler with bonzi tip,
17 " mille miglia mm 112, Yokoham avid h4

[This message has been edited by Nick (edited 05-11-2001).]
 
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Discussion Starter #7
This is for doing it alone bleeding.
install involves having new fluid, glass jar, paper towel, jug of water and some small hose about 1 foot or more in length (fits over bleed screw). Unbolt the factory ones one at a time and raplace each after you remove it. The "Flare nut/Connecting bolt" (upper connection) require about 13ft-lb torque. Good luck torqueing these. The lower bolt that attaches to the caliper requires about 13ft-lb. When you receive the new lines, washers and bolts, lose the bolts. They are weak compared to the factory ones. Reuse the factory bolts (clean if needed) that go into the caliper and use the new washers. Once the lines are in, fill the fluid reservoir with new fluid and make sure you have enough to put some of the new fluid in the jar.
starting with the "left rear" (listed in FSM) take the hose and fit it snugly onto the drain nipple/bleed screw. put the other hose end into the jar with fluid so that the end is submerged. Loosen up the bleed screw about 1/2 turn. get into the car and pump the brakes down to the floor about 5+ times, untill there are no more air bubbles coming out of the line as you depress the pedal (it's nice having a friend to watch). Once that's done you close the "bleed screw" (take care as this tightens at 6 ft-lbs), check fluid level and go onto the next one..... order as follows.
left rear
right front
right rear
left front
Keep checking the reservoir. You don't want that to get too low or you will have to redue the bleed. The towels are for quick cleanup and the water is needed if you spill the brake fluid on paint. It will strip paint. If you spill it on paint get windex or auto shampoo to clean it right away. Don't get fluid on the brake rotors or pads as this will make things slippery. Good luck bloke.
 

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oh yeah, SS braided lines rock as far as the big brake upgrade is concerned. and yes you can tell a big difference between stock and the SS braided brake lines. any body says otherwise, was high during testing! 3:16 and that's the bottom line, cause RED said so!
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cossie:
The "Flare nut/Connecting bolt" (upper connection) require about 13ft-lb torque. Good luck torqueing these. The lower bolt that attaches to the caliper requires about 13ft-lb. When you receive the new lines, washers and bolts, lose the bolts. They are weak compared to the factory ones. Reuse the factory bolts (clean if needed) that go into the caliper and use the new washers. </font>
Ain't that the truth -- I had one snap when I was tightening it down. I figured the stock one wouldn't fit with the SS lines but I tried it, and it did!


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'93 Sentra SE-R, daily driver and track/autox toy
 
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Discussion Starter #10
erm....maybe i didnt ask correctly...i ment those braided lines underhood...not for your brake...slike your vaccume....fuel...power steering...oil cooler lines...like those that run on nascar that needs an AN wrench to snug up...anyone got those?
 
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