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B13 1.6 E tachless cluster to tach XE/SE --- HELP!

Soo.. i thought i would give this a shot and switch the two out thinking its that easy... My car is a sentra E and cluster i think is from either XE or SE... dunno.. but its from another 1.6 ... well i was wrong and the cluster with the tach in it wont work.. i have a 93 sentra and that cluster i think is from another 93 or 94.. its digital speedo.. All the plugs fit and all but the tach dont work and light bulbs on the circuit light up differently.. soo.. is there an easy way of accomplishing this or u have to splice and stuff.... either way, i ended up pulling my dash since the cluster didnt work, i might as well swith the dash out for a nice looking one hangin up in my garage!! :)




 

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Sentraholic
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I'm in the same boat man, I'm trying to put a factory tach in my '92. I got other projects right now and don't really have to time. I'm sure there will have to be some rewiring though. I don't know where the gauge gets its signal from; (ecm, or ignition)Some day some I will get it figured out. hopefully someone will know how its done...

I did cut & keep the harness plugs to the cluster, so I will be able to match wires and follow schematics. I'll be working on it this coming week. I'll keep you informed
 

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No plug and play. The plugs fit but you will have to rearrange the wiring for all the functions to work properly. Toolapcfan wrote a writeup on how to do the cluster swap a while back for NissanPerformanceMag but the site no longer hosts it. Here is the text of the article:

To remove your existing cluster from your car, simply remove the plastic bezel surrounding it followed by removing the screws that holds the cluster in. You'll need to remove the radio/hvac bezel just enough to get the cluster bezel out from behind it.

Also realize that unlike most other harnesses in the car, which only have one tab that you press to release the harness, the cluster harnesses have two tabs that need to be depressed, one on each side of the harness.

Installing an OEM tachometer cluster into an OEM tach-less cluster equipped car

First off, be sure to install the appropriate tach for your car. Installing an SR20DE cluster in a GA16DE powered car, and vice versa, will work fine using these instructions, however you will have an inaccurate redline indication on the tach. Although it may be true that various model year clusters will work in a 1993 Sentra, I currently cannot confirm or deny which ones will work, nor do I have the information I need to cross reference the wiring to those clusters. Checking part numbers for tach clusters would verify what year clusters will work. This write-up was written using a 1993 Nissan Factory Service Manual, and therefore does not assume that any other clusters besides one pulled from a 1993 will work, although it is speculated that a 1994 cluster is the same. Additionally, the FSM is not flawless; in fact I found several inconsistencies in it.

Although, I hope for this to be the best write-up available for doing a cluster swap, I realize that there are going to be mistakes due to my own shortcomings as well as those of the FSM. The drawings and pictures in this write-up were provided as an aid to use while working in the car, and might be tough to understand without seeing and working in the car, and with the actual harnesses.

With that in mind, your cluster has four harnesses that operate the gauges: M30, M32, M33 and M102. The wires and arrangement thereof, differ in these harnesses depending on which type of cluster is being used. I cannot tell from the manual if certain wires that relate to other options like airbag, cruise and ABS will be present in the cluster harnesses of vehicles not equipped with those options. My educated guess would be yes, that the wires will be present in the cluster harnesses even if the car does not have certain options. My own '93 SE-R has the wires in place for the ABS indicator despite that I don't have ABS. Additionally automatic transmission equipped, Canadian and 4 door models also have different wiring. Following each cluster heading are diagrams reflecting a harness side view of the 4 cluster harnesses. A harness side view is when you are looking at the harness from the side where the wires come out. You will run into the fact that Nissan has chosen to install two wires of the same color into the same harness. This occurs in harnesses M30, M32 and M33 for the tach cluster harnesses, and in M102, M32 and M33 for the tach-less cluster harnesses. This could create a problem if you're not careful to keep track of which wire originated in what position when you swap them into their new harness positions to operate the tach equipped cluster. This is why I suggest you only swap one wire at a time. Obviously, you have to pull a wire out to swap a wire in. So once you pull a wire out to create a space for another wire, then swap that removed wire to its new location, and repeat the process until they're all swapped. This will prevent a lot of mistakes. You're going to be swapping wire function then colors not wire number locations. For instance, terminal 1 in M102 R/B high beam on indicator for a tach-less cluster does not correspond with terminal 1 in M102 G/L fuel gauge for a tach equipped cluster. The numbers are simply there to help navigate the harnesses. You want to swap wires based on their function first, and then color, because as I've said, you'll find various wires of the same color as well as that certain functions do not share the same color. An example being that the tach-less M102 terminal 1 is B for the speedometer, and it swaps into tach equipped M102 terminal 3 and now functions to ground not only the speedometer, but also the water temp and fuel gauges. This will leave you with an extra black ground wire leftover from tach-less M33-30. Or if you used that ground, then you'd have a leftover black ground wire from tach-less M102-1. You'll also find additional ground wires you'll leave unused, hence why the tach equipped cluster has less wires used than the tach-less. You'll also be adding one wire to operate the tach. So make sure you remember the wire location you're going from and going to for the wire you're swapping as well as that certain wire locations exist for one cluster and not for another. Hopefully by the time you've read through this, you'll understand why these things occur. The individual charts are there for you to familiarize yourself with the harnesses and their terminal locations as well as their function. To make life easy during wire swapping, use the cross-reference locations provided after each wire description under the tach-less cluster harnesses. As a rule of thumb, disconnect your battery's negative terminal during this swap.

How to remove wire terminals from the harnesses

Thankfully, Nissan has made it very easy for us to modify wiring harnesses throughout the car. The cluster harnesses you'll be rearranging the wires in, have an intricate plastic part that keeps the terminals from coming out of the harness. You'll need a small jeweler's screwdriver, an awl or some picks similar to these. They work well for lots of things, especially in this application.



This drawing shows one of the long sides of a cluster harness. You can see the tab that you depressed to release this side of the harness from the cluster, as well as the open areas where the metal terminals that the wires are connected to. Using a jewelers screwdriver or an awl with a dulled end, press into both areas marked as indentations on the drawing. The plastic should shift to the left, towards the terminals. If you pull up on the plastic just behind the release tab, you can pull this plastic up and out from behind the terminals. See the following picture of a side view of a harness with before and after renditions of this. Once you understand how this clip is released, it should make sense how to do so on the other side of the harness, as well as other harnesses for the cluster.



Now you don't have to worry about the wires falling out, they are still held in by individual plastic tabs inside the harness. To fully remove a wire from the harness, again, using a small jewelers screwdriver or an awl, depress the plastic tab while gently pulling on the wire from the opposite side of the harness. The tab is kind of far back in the hole, you kind of have to wedge between it and the terminal. Once you understand how this works for one wire it should make sense how to remove the rest of the wires.

Wire Color Coding

B = Black
W = White
R = Red
G = Green
Y = Yellow
BR = Brown
OR = Orange
PU = Purple
L = Blue

These locations are oriented from a view of the backside of the cluster right-side up

M30 Plugs in vertically on the left hand side of the cluster



M32 Plugs in horizontally in the upper right hand side of the cluster M33 Plugs in horizontally just above the fuel and temp gauges M102 Plugs in horizontally just below M32

M102 - 8 wires

1 R/B High beam on indicator Swap to M32-11
2 B/Y Overdrive off indicator (auto only) Swap to M33-19
3 R/B Fuel indicator Swap to M102-5
4 Y/G Speedometer gauge Swap to M102-6
5 R/Y Meter illumination Swap to M30-40
6 G Speedometer gauge Swap to M32-16
7 R Speedometer gauge Swap to M32-18
8 B Speedometer gauge Swap to M102-3 or leave unused and use M33-30 or M32-11

M32 - 9 wires

9 Y/G(4door and NX)Y/B(2door) Seatbelt indicator Swap to M32-14
10 R/W Airbag indicator Swap to M32-13
11 B Ground for airbag indicator Swap to M102-3 or leave unused and use M33-30 or M102-8
12 B Ground for high beam on indicator Swap to M32-12
13 R/L Meter illumination Swap to M33-21
14 Y Seatbelt indicator Swap to M32-9
15 Y/G Oil indicator Swap to M30-33
16 Y Power for overdrive off(auto), door open, brake, fuel, abs, malfunction, washer(Canada), charge, oil and airbag indicators, fuel, water temp and speedometer gauges Swap to M32-15
17 G/B Left hand turn signal indicator Swap to M102-8

M33 - 6 wires

24 G/L Fuel gauge Swap to M102-1
26 G/Y(2door)G/R(4door and NX)Cruise on indicator Swap to M33-25 27 G/Y Right hand turn signal indicator Swap to M33-26
28 B Ground for turn signal indicators Swap to M33-27
29 Y/G Water temp gauge Swap to M30-41
30 B Ground for clock, water temp and fuel gauges Swap to M102-3 or leave unused and use M32-11 or M102-8


M30 - 9 wires

31 L Clock illumination Swap to M30-38
33 R/B Clock Swap to M30-37
36 R/W Door open indicator Swap to M102-2
37 PU Brake indicator Swap to M30-31
38 Y/R Charge indicator Swap to M30-36
39 Y/B Brake indicator Swap to M30-32
40 OR/B Malfunction indicator Swap to M30-35
41 L/W Washer indicator (Canada only) Swap to M32-10
42 L/R ABS indicator Swap to M102-7





You have 32 wires in your tach-less harnesses. After swapping the wires into their new spots on the harnesses you will have abandoned 2 of the following grounds, M33-30, M32-11, M102-8. You will have added one wire, L/B placed into M30-39, for a total of 31 wires.

M30 Plugs in horizontally behind the temp gauge on the bottom left hand side of the cluster (when looking at the back)
M32 Plugs in horizontally behind the fuel gauge on the bottom right hand side of the cluster (when looking at the back)
M33 Plugs in horizontally behind the tach
M102 Plugs in vertically above M32


M102 - 7 wires

1 G/L Fuel gauge Swap from M33-24
2 R/W Door open indicator Swap from M30-36
3 B Ground for water temp, fuel, tach and speedometer gauges as well as airbag
indicator and clock Swap from M102-8, M32-11 or M33-30
5 R/B Fuel indicator Swap from M102-3
6 Y/G Speedometer gauge Swap from M102-4
7 L/R ABS indicator Swap from M30-42
8 G/B Left hand turn signal indicator Swap from M32-17


M32 - 9 wires

9 Y Seatbelt indicator Swap from M32-14
10 L/W Washer indicator (Canada only) Swap from M30-41
11 R/B High beam on indicator Swap from M102-1
12 B Ground for high beam on indicator Swap from M32-12
13 R/W Airbag indicator Swap from M32-10
14 Y/G(4door and NX)Y/B(2door) Seatbelt indicator Swap in from M32-9
15 Y Power for Abs, fuel, brake, overdrive off(auto), door, malfunction, washer(Canada), charge, and oil indicator lights, water temp, fuel, tach, and speedo gauges. Swap from M32-16
16 G Speedometer gauge Swap from M102-6
18 R Speedometer gauge Swap from M102-7


M33 - 5 wires

19 B/Y Overdrive off indicator (auto only) Swap from M102-2
21 R/L Meter illumination Swap from M32-13
25 G/Y(2door)G/R(4door and NX) Cruise on indicator Swap from M33-26
26 G/Y Right hand turn signal indicator Swap from M33-27
27 B Ground for turn signal indicators Swap from M33-28


M30 - 10 wires

31 PU Brake indicator Swap from M30-37
32 Y/B Brake indicator Swap from M30-39
33 Y/G Oil indicator Swap from M32-15
35 OR/B Malfunction indicator Swap from M30-40
36 Y/R Charge indicator Swap from M30-38
37 R/B Clock Swap from M30-33
38 L Clock illumination Swap from M30-31
39 L/B Tachometer gauge Find in dash to connect
40 R/Y Meter illumination Swap from M102-5
41Y/G Water temp gauge Swap from M33-29

You should have 31 wires in your tach equipped harnesses and two black ground wires leftover from your tach-less setup. I would wrap the terminals of these grounds with electrical tape and if possible bundle any excessive length of these wires and tuck them out of the way.



Since I've not verified it myself or had it confirmed, it is not clear whether or not the L/B Tachometer gauge wire from the computer is in fact abandoned conveniently in the dash somewhere. It is speculated that it is. Regardless here's how to locate the wire on the ECU harness so you can trace it to wherever it goes. Unfortunately, there are two L/B wires that come out of the ECU. The L/B you want is in ECU terminal 2. To make it easier to spot, there is a solid white wire on one side of it and a L/W on the other side of it. At any rate here is a harness side view (looking at the back of the harness where all the wires come out when it's connected to the ECU) of the ECU harness with all the terminal locations.



And here is the wiring diagram:



Note that there is and error in one of those diagrams where it's perspective is backwards so doublecheck them all to confirm those wiring positions(I can't remember which one it is). This writeup was for swapping an electronic non-tach GA16DE Cluster to an electronic tach equipped one. I'm guessing the procedure is the same for the cable speedometer ones (91-92) but you would need to have a cable speedo cluster for it to work. Using one from an SR20DE may work but you are on your own for that one.
 

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No sweat, just lookin' out for my 1.6 brothers. One more note about the last paragraph: I can confirm that there is an ECU signal wire to tap into. I'll see if I can post a photo of where it is so you don't have to take your ECU out to hunt for it.
 

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Sentraholic
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I got it all swapped over. My cluster lights stay on with the key off...
i figured I may have the BATT and ILL+ crossed, because of the spots from the old harness to new.. I forgot to switch them. But I didn't disconnect the battery, and shorted out the BATT wire. Couldn't find a blown fuse. Wish my multimeter was working. :(
I couldn't find the TACH wires either.
All this is being done to my '92 4-door XE. I forgot what car I pulled the cluster out of. But I have that car's cluster harness still attached. It was a '91 or '92.. Cable Speedo
 

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sr20det inquirer
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i did this swap using the fsm diagram and i had to run a wire from the ecu to the cluster in order to get the tach working. dont remember the wire number on the plug but its a blue wire that runs from the ecu to another plug behind the center console. from that plug you have to either splice it or pin it to the other side of the plug and run it to the cluster. its the center plug and goes to rpm signal.

on the other hand, my temp gauge doesnt work now. maybe i put the pin on the wrong place or i blew the gauge, because at some point it worked i just re-pinned that thing so many times trying to figure it out that i forgot.
 

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Sentraholic
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Yeah, i found the wire coming outta the ecu last night. I found where it dead ends too. I got terminals and stuff to get it all working. But I've been doing all this with the flu or something. I stopped last night when the drugs wore off. *** start again when I get outta work. Thats all I got left. everything else is fine.
I didn't even use any manual. I followed the circuitry on the back of the cluster. But I also had the tach cluster pig tails to look at. I dunno if the gauges work, I didnt drive the car *** the tranny is shot.. I didnt wanna fill up the garage with exhaust either. (auto) thats my next project tonight. That 4 speed swap!
I'll post pix soon
 

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Sentraholic
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got it all working. Temp gauge didnt work either. I had to ground it, so I spliced into the ground for the fuel gauge. everything is perfect now. Taped it all up..... my lil se-r wanna be. lol. on to the manual swap...
 

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Sentraholic
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u can follow the ground from the back of the gauge. it'll say "gnd" on the back of the gauge or on the circuit path coming from one of the terminals on the gauge. Follow it to the harness plug, and see if there is a ground wire in that spot..
I cant post pix, apparently phones explode when they hit concrete. I lost all kinds of pix.
 

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Sentraholic
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So how goes it? I got the car near complete! gauge cluster, rear discs, manual tranny, se-r interior swap - carpet seats, suspension, nx wheels... the thing is great! just got a few things left...
 
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