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'93 drifting Egg
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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Many of guys have experienced this problem before. You have 2 options: either get another tranny and hop it doesn't have the same problem or develop it, or rebuild it. I chose to rebuild it, since the tranny was already replaced by a previous owner.

This is my rebuild how-to with lots of pics.

First, order the rebuild kit from Courtesy Parts. Click here...5th gear pop-out kit
Then buy 4 pints of your choice gear oil that meets or exceeds API-GL4. I chose to get Valvoline Synthetic blend 80w-90(it has a API-GL5 rating). I normally use Mobil 1 fully synthetic, but it has skyrocketed in price since the gas has shot up, to nearly $12/pint.
I also chose to buy the rubber insulator parts for the crossmember bolts for my car since mine were rotted out and the crossmember would clank on shifts. Might as well do it when you pull the tranny.
Then find you a suitable location to pull your trans out, and then pull it out with whatever means you find necessary.


This is the tranny on the table after a thurough cleaning to remove gunk buildup from a slowly leaking shifter input rod seal and previous left axle seal leak. Here you can see the six 10mm bolts on the case cover at the top. Remove these first.


Then you will see this. Remove the big snap ring on the outer bearing race. Then remove 14 12mm bolts around the perimeter of the casing and remove the casing half. You may need to bump the tranny with a suitable hammer to work the silicone sealant loose.




This is what you will see when you remove the case half. Note how the plastic oil chute is sitting on the lower casing half. You will need to put the chute back in the same spot when reassembling the halves.

Next remove the rod that goes thru the shift forks with some pliers. Make sure to use a cloth of some sorts with the pliers so you don't gaul the rod. Then remove the shift forks from top to bottom.

When you get to the last shift fork that is black, you will need to remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold the shifter mechanism and remove the fork and mechanism together. This is the hardest part of the transmission to take out and put back in the right way.


This is my 5th gear shift fork. This is part where the shift mechanism inserts into the button in the fork. Notice how the slot in the fork is elongated from use. This part of the problem why it would pop-out because of the slop in the fork.


Old shift fork on the left, new on the right.


Next, raise the reverse idler gear and remove the 3 12mm bolts that hold the input shaft bearing retainer. Then lift the input shaft cluster, counter gear cluster, and reverse idler gear at the same time remove them from the lower case half and set on a clean level surface.


Note how the longer portion of the reverse idler gear faces the lower case half. This crucial to remember when reassembling, or your reverse will not work properly.







Differential unit and ring gear. Inspect for broken teeth, leaking LSD unit, and other damage. Inspect bearings and speedo gear too.
 

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'93 drifting Egg
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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

Replace right axle seal with new one from kit.


Replace input shaft seal with new one from kit.


Remove spring and detent ball from hole to prepare to remove the shifter input rod.


Remove this pin with a punch.


Then slide the rod out and replace this seal with new one from kit.



Inspect detent areas for wear or grooves. Inspect rod for gauling.


After installing new shifter rod seal, reinsert the rod back in and make sure to position the other parts in the correct orientation while sliding rod in. Then use this new pin from kit to fasten the striker back to the rod.


Now back to the 5th gear. I reinserted the input gear cluster back into the hole in lower case to make things easier. Remove the snap ring at the top.


Remove the synchronizer hub and sleeve along with the washer on top.


Remove the washer. Note how the 4 grooves go all the way across the face of the hub, this faces up on the new unit.


Note how the inserts are located and how the springs are oriented into the inserts. You will need to precisely replicate the orientations on the new units.


New hub and sleeve unit. Note that 4 grooves that don't go all the way across the face of the hub face downward when installed on the gear cluster.


New insert prior to installing into sleeve and hub. Remember to replicate the orientation of the inserts and springs from the old unit.


Then remove the brass synchronizer ring. Mine had some of the teeth ground down from wear and the gear poping out creating that grinding noise.


Remove the old 5th inpt gear and note direction. Then reinstall the 5th gear parts in the reverse order of removal, noting which way the parts face as mentioned above.


New 5th gear parts installed and clusters and reverse idler gear reinstalled. Tighten the 3 12mm bolts that hold the input shaft bearing retainer. Reinstall sping and detent ball back into hole at this time.



Reinstall the black shift fork and shifter mechanism. This kind of tricky as you have to move the reverse idler gear around and watch the 1-2 synchro assembly while trying to locate everything the correct way.



Insert new button from kit into the 3-4 shift fork and install into the 3-4 synchro sleeve.



insert new button from kit into the new 5th gear shift fork and install into the 5th gear synchro sleeve.


Carefully insert the knobs on the shifter mechanism into the buttons on the shift forks. Also check that the striker on the shift input rod is located correctly inside the shfter mechanism. Now is a good time to try to shift the gears with the shifter input rod to see if everything is lined up correctly.


Then reinsert the shift fork rod back thru the shift forks and make sure it is fully inserted into the hole in the lower case half. Then recheck shifter function again.


Then reposition the plastic oil chute to get ready to reinstall the upper case half. Then use grey or red silicone sealant and go around the perimeter of the mating area for the 2 halves, making sure to go around bolt holes too. Then reinstall upper case half while watching to make sure oil shute is being located properly. You might have to jiggle the case half to make sure it seats correctly. Then retighten the the 14 12mm bolts around the perimeter of the casing.




Take a flat head screwdriver and put the end of it under the bearing inner race and lift up the gear cluster to reinstall the big snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated. Then apply more silicone sealant to the mating area of the case cover. Then install new o-ring from kit. Reinstall the case cover and retighten the 6 10mm bolts.

That is how to rebuild the 5th gear components.

Now reinstall tranny into car and other parts taken off. Fill tranny with oil. Fire up engine and check shifter function. Then test drive car to check you work.

Good luck.
 

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NEOVVL
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186 Posts
amazing
 

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Proud Italian
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1,779 Posts
very good write up. Intimidating but very well done
 

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Registered
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20 Posts
Nice writeup :biggthump



Just curious, if I were to take a car to have the 5th gear pop out kit installed how many hours will I be billed if I take it to a decent transmission shop (I dont have the balls to take apart the transmission :rofl: ) Thanks :) .
 

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'93 drifting Egg
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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nice writeup :biggthump



Just curious, if I were to take a car to have the 5th gear pop out kit installed how many hours will I be billed if I take it to a decent transmission shop (I dont have the balls to take apart the transmission :rofl: ) Thanks :) .
They would probably charge about 2-3 hours labor for just removing/installing the tranny, then about another 1-2 hours or so on rebuilding it.
It only took me about 1 hour to rebuild it, and that was with taking pics.
I spent about 1 hour cleaning all the gunk and road grime off before I tore it apart. It took about about 30 minutes to yank the tranny out of the car and about 1 hour to put it back (poly mounts are a bitch and put new cross-member bushings in too).
 

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Proud Italian
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1,779 Posts
Wish you were local..lol
 

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Pâté Performance...
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1,274 Posts
Awesome write up!
 

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'93 drifting Egg
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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
For any of you local guys who need this done, I can do this for a small fee as long as you supply the tranny and overhaul parts. I am located in Auburn, Alabama. I work at Lynch Nissan, but I can do this on the side so you don't get raped on shop fees/labor.
 

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He rebuilt my 5th gear pop out

I just wanted to recommend "NissanEgg" for the 5th gear pop out repair. He did an excellent job and as promised. Wouldn't hesitate to use him again!

Jim
 

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23 Posts
hey guys, i have a 94 b13 with the ga16de. it currently has an automatic tranny and want to swap it with a manual. any ballpark guesses on how much this would be, and could i use the se-r five speed or would i have to use the four speed?? thanks!!
 

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Don't call it a comeback
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1,146 Posts
Does the oil chute actually connect to anything? When I separated the halves it came falling out!
 

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'93 drifting Egg
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508 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
No it doesn't. But it is a very critical part and definitely needs to be in the correct spot when putting the 2 halves of the case back together.
 

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I'm going through this overhaul on a transmission that's been sitting for about 8-10 years and the hub and slider are having issues going on to the splines.
The old set was jammed on as well and took some work to get it off.

The the splines of the shaft or the hub ever need to be deburred? They look clean.

I just don't want to start hammering the hub into place.
 
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