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My Ass, your face
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2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:D First, a big shout out and thanks to Dexter. He was over at my house about a month or so ago and gave me some advice on what to do about all the minute scratches and swirl marks I had on my roof and trunk lid... "Mark, if I were you, I'd wet sand the top and trunk".

I nodded my head slowly and said that it sounded like a fine idea... wondering why I would rub wet sand onto my paint and finish. But, while researching some other information, cleaning the headlights, I came across what wet sanding was.

Then it clicked, this is what Dexter told me to try on my car, duh. Basically, you take a spray bottle of water and some 1500 grit sandpaper, spray a spot lightly, then sand away. Wipe off the excess, then move to the next spot. I did this to my entire roof and trunk, plus used 3m cleaner and finishing product.

My roof and trunk are now free of scratches and swirl marks... they look brand new. I also polished and waxed the entire car... looking very sweet. I can now see myself in the finish.

Thanks, Dexter, for the information... it really works. Thanks to Icey Hot for taking care of the massive shoulder pain as a result of all this work.

Peace Out,
Mark

P.S. I'll post pics at a later date, didn't think to take any before pics, though.
 

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My Ass, your face
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2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, my car is a '91 White Classic, so I probably needed it more than you. Because it's a white car, it was that noticeable until you got right next to it. Now, you could shave in the reflection on the roof or trunk.

TTIWWP?, eh?

Peace Out,
Mark
 

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Master Cunnilingust
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4,713 Posts
I'd use two buckets, clean warm water in each, a sponge, rubber sanding pad and the paper. You rinse the sponge in one bucket and soak up clean water with the other and you need to be generous with the water. The less water you use, the quicker the paper clogs up, which puts more scatches in your paint. I would only recommend wet sanding as a last resort. There are enough compounds out there and using an electric buffer, you can get scatches out easily this way. Wet sanding is removing paint and unless you're going to repaint, you're leaving less than what you started with, so I'd only do it as a last resort, and some scratches aren't going to come out easily or at all, without repainting. The nice thing is, even if you use touch up paint or use color matched paint to retouch areas, as long as the paint is non-metallic, wet sanding and machine buffing can allow you to repair small areas and not have it noticeable in the end.
 

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My Ass, your face
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2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What Rob says is true and this is a last resort. I used plenty of spray water and did small areas at a time. I only did this because I tried all the other products out there that were supposed to remove scratches and swirl marks... they never did a good enough job.

I don't have an electrical buffer, used my 10hp Slavic shoulder muscles instead. I wish I had thought of buying the rubber sanding block, would have made the job a bit easier on my hands. I ended up wrapping the sandpaper over an old, but clean, square buffing pad. I'm guessing this also kept me from removing too much paint since I couldn't press down with as much force as I could have with a sanding block... probably a good thing.

Remember folks, last resort, only. This saved me from having to get a new paint job so it was worth it to me.

Peace Out,
Mark
 

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Master Cunnilingust
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4,713 Posts
One of the main reasons for using the block is that it's a firm uniform surface. Fingers are fleshy and squishy, and have gaps between each other. You can literally put stripes in a car by wet sanding it by hand without a sanding block. And by sanding block I don't mean the big thick ones that have the flaps with spikes to hold the paper on, I mean small, 2"x3" and 3"x6" 1/4" thick rubber pads that you can get from any autopaint shop for $1 or less. Wet sanding does suck, very much, wears your ass out and you literally sand your fingerprints off, sometimes utnil your fingers are pink and there isn't much skin left and it ****ing hurts! I've probably spent at least 200 hours wet sanding cars to prep for paint and I'll die a happy man if I never have to do it again, which I undoubtedly will. :( A person can revamp their painjob pretty cheap if they wetsand the clearcoat just enough to dull it and then reshoot clear putting a few nice wet coats on. Then machine buff it and the car will look good for another 5-10 years. But if you've got dings, a fresh clearcoat will bring those suckers to daylight and they'll really stick out.
 

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Ive done paint for lots of years, Idont reccomerend wet sanding unless someone experienced shows or tells you how. If you want to use a buffer, buy your compound and glazes from an autobody supply store. They have professional products for professional results. Stay away from the auto parts store products. If you want to try bodywork check this board, plenty of info for diy and newbees http://www.autobodystore.com
 

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My Ass, your face
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2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Badass, nice site.

Wet sanding wasn't that difficult, and it was only the roof and trunk lid. My only other choice would have been to get a new paint job.

Sometimes, I get the idea I shouldn't have mentioned doing this... seems like I did everything wrong and used the wrong supplies. So, in view of that, I don't recommend anyone else doing this unless you follow Rob's and Badass-er's advice. My method worked for me, but results may vary, drastically for you.

Maybe I was just lucky, God does watch over fools;).

Peace Out,
Mark
 

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ya dig
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1,053 Posts
im goin to have maaco do my car soon, would u suggest wet sanding it myself??? or what could i do in order for it to turn out better thanks...
 

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My Ass, your face
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2,431 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, managed to take just a few correctly sized pics. To me, it looks great and it's very smooth to the touch. Next, I'll be doing my hood... hell, my whole car.

That's how well it came out, the rest of my car doesn't look as good, now.

http://www.freewebs.com/vladhas/wetsand.htm

Peace,
Mark
 
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