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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help/advice, for a while now i have been hearing a grinding noise on the passenger side when i brake. It sounds like metal to metal contact when the brake pads are worn out. However, last week I checked the pads pulled them off and nothing is wrong with them. THey still have close to 90% of their life on them. Just recently the brake light on the insturment cluster stays on unless i brake really hard then i goes off. (2 weeks ago my brother-in-law said he saw sparks coming from the brake area. This happend before i checked the pads)

Since yesterrday the light has been staying on no matter what. It went off a couple of times and has come back on. I checked the brake fluid when i checked the pads and it is fine.

Could i need new brake fluid in there? Could the rotors be bad? Could the calipers be bad? Would going to braided brake lines solve this?

Please let me know i am stumped on this one.:( :( :(
 

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I'd first check your caliper pins. They might just need some lubricant (I use something called syl-glide from NAPA) or, worse, they could be rusted. When you remove the two caliper pins (14mm socket) make sure you remember where they came from as they're sized slightly different.

Steve
 

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check to make sure that the caliper can slide easily on its pins and also check to make sure that the brake line (rubber) in that area looks fine.

Does the car pull one way or the other?
Did ya check the pads on the front and the rear or just the front.

keep in mind when you step on the brakes the piston comes out of the caliper pushing the inside pad into the rotor and then when it hits this causes the whole caliper assembly to move towards the centerline of the car so the outside pad can engage the rotor.

If one of the pads is waron much more than the other then this is generally a good indication that there is a problem with the caliper or slides not being able to move properly.

If he is seeing sparks then ya prolly got metal on metal contact somewhere. The brake light in our cars will come on when A) you are low on fluid in the master cylinder resivoir or B) you have a difference in pressure between the front and rear of the brake system generally indicating a leak somewhere.

questions....
1) does the car pull either direction when you apply the brakes
2) are you losing fluid at all anywhere?

BTW I am ASE certified in brakes and they used to be my specialty.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
questions....
1) does the car pull either direction when you apply the brakes
2) are you losing fluid at all anywhere?

BTW I am ASE certified in brakes and they used to be my specialty.
Rick [/B][/QUOTE]



1) the car doesn't pull to one side when braking. I have let the steering wheel go and braked. No pull to either side. But i will check again in the morning.

2) when i checked the brake pads there was a greenish or dirty colored fluid on the passager side shocks/struts.
3) the calipers look to be in good shape, they are just rusted all to hell. I guess that would be the case since they are 11yrs old. Should I look into replacing the calipers?


I can't tell if there is any major fluid loss other than oil from years of built up oil leaking from the oil filter when changing the oil.

I am thinking of changing out the brake lines to see what that does. I am also thinking of replacing the brake fluid just to know that there is new non-broken down fluid in there.

The pins are well greased in the calipers did that when i check the pads and replaced a torn caliper bushing. i didn't check the rear when i checked the front 2 weeks ago but i thought i checked them in the summer when this first started.

In the summer i checked the pads put them back on and the problem went away:confused:

Thx for the imput, i plan on maybe having the rotors turned this weekend but i don't have a reliable mechanic any more. (long story).
 

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More suggestions/ Q's

First of all if you have a greenish colored grease or dirt on your struts you really need to be checking your cv boots. The grease they put in the cv joints is greenish in color and if one of the boots is torn it will fling grease all over the wheelwell and wheel.

Sorry didn't catch it the first time... is this an ABS equipped car?
The ABS can trigger a brake light as well and i am not to sure if the ABS has a seperate light or wether it uses the same light as the normal brake light. We are talking about the same brake light that comes on when you set your parking brake right?

Changing the fluid out is a great idea. As far as a type goes go get yourself some valvoline synpower stuff from the parts store and bleed them with that. I think when we did bens car at the KC geekout it took us about 3 or four bottles (quart size) to get a really good flush and clear fluid at all four wheels. Good fluid and reasonably priced.

If It is an ABS car that can open a whole new can of worms.

It may help if i could talk to ya in person (over the phone). check your pm's and you will find my phone numbers. gimme a call if ya like
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks

Rick,

I remember now what the greenish colored fluid was, the shop that i usually take my car to replaced a torn cv boot when i had them replace the clutch. They also replaced the transmission fluid at that time also.

No the car doesn't have ABS since it is a 91 although i wish i had it.

I sent you a pm.... will try calling you tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help.
Daniel

by the way my aim is blulight1914 I am always on s-w 8pm til 7am b/c of work.
 

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i have this same problem in mine, except i have abs (it did come in 91)
i have really diverse changes in pedal feel. sometimes its hard sometimes its very light, if i pump it goes hard, if i pump again it may go soft. i get the grinding sound out of the front passenger too. i had a couple shops look the brake system over and they said it wasnt anything they could find. master cylinder was fine, no air in the lines. im thinking about trying some steel braided hoses and see if that does anything.
also, my abs went out a while ago, and they quoted me at 1k to replace it. then they said or we could just show you how to pull the fuse. now im thinking maybe it was the pedal pressure that may have caused the problems with the abs.
sorry for the ramble
 

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Well Stir i would recommend pulling your fuse on your abs. This puts it into a fail safe mode so that the ABS pumps will not activate. Your brakes will still work normally and you may find that your pedal then feels much more consistent.

Also a good brake bleed would also be a good idea. It may help your pedal feel as well. I recommend the Valvoline synpower brake fluid bu be sure and get plenty of it and make sure you bleed enough to flush the entire system out.

As far as the grinding goes guys if you have metal to metal contact ( I remember GC* mentioning that he saw sparks) there should be metal on metal contact somewhere. I very close inspection may help you out here. Look for any shiny areas on the wheels, calipers, rotors (most likely the hubs or edges), back of the pads andything that could be touching.

Check the rotor dimensions as well. Maybe someone gave you the wrong rotors. Try changing brands of pads. If there happens to be a faulty run of pads with an unusually high metal content who knows.....

Some more suggestions for ya guys. Hope that helps. BTW I will be at bens place this weekend for his geekout if any of you guys are going, I may be able to take a look then.

Talk to ya later
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HEy Rocket

Stirp,

Definetly listen to rocketman on this one. He helped me get rid of my problem with my brakes.

Rocket, the issue was low brake fluid for some reason I lost quite a bit of brake fluid in a couple of days. Don't know how or what happened but all the lines are fine and the master cylinder is fine and the brake fluid reseviour(sp) isn't cracked.
I didn't call you b/c things have been kinda crazy with me at home but I appreciate everything and all the advice you gave me rocket.

Peace
Daniel
 

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Hey no problem man....

Anyway GC8, If ya look at it this way you may still have a problem. Brake fluid had to go somewhere. Did ya try pulling up the carpet in the drivers footwell area to see if there was any brke fluid or evidence of it in there? If a master cylinder is bad it can bleed back into the passenger compartment and bubble up the paint on the floorboard under the carpet.

Might wanna check that out.

Stiro if ya got some more questions PM me or e-mail me and i will need to ask ya some more questions.

Talk to ya guys later.
Rick
 
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