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pwnd
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Ive got a question. What is the best way to stop an automatic in the city? Cause I think Im eating up rotors. Since this is the first auto Ive ever driven for extended periods I was wondering how much I need to change my brakeing technicque? The way now is how i almost used to do it with the 5speed. Let off the gas coast down a bit, and slowly apply the brakes giving plenty of room. Its almost like im dragging the brakes or something overheating things? I dont know but i think ive effectivly warped a set of ad22vf's. I will know later cause i just bled the brakes to see if that helps. Not to mention that my pedal felt like ****, fluid still pretty clear just spongy pedal.

I really dont like coming up on something and slamming on my brakes, but I also dont like eating up rotors. These are stock nissan pads. Could be my rear's that are warped tho. I havent checked them or replaced them for a long time. but any tips on driving an auto would help....i do miss a manual....next toy will probaly be a track car so of course it has to be one, not this highway cruiser

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Thats my opinion and I could be wrong

93 classic
Aztec Red, Automatic, POP, STB, OEC battery tie down, AD22VF's, Pirelli P4000's

 

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i think i've read about this in a newspaper... and in the end they said there's little difference between both techniques... i mean if you sit lightly on the brakes then ofcourse you're gonna wear it, but if you stand on the brakes then you're gonna wear it down just as much even during the shorter duration pulsing on the brakes does the same thing.

so i guess you should just brake however you like. i personally hate seeing people's tail lights lighting up 150yards before a stop sign...

btw i have a manual and i don't use compression braking. 5sp/auto--doesnt matter to me
 

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sleeper
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5,445 Posts
I'd say that if your brakes are cold, slowly apply the brakes to let them warm up gradually. If you brake hard and heat them up too quickly, they'll warp. I tend to coast and brake a bit early or lightly... I'm really surprised you're eating up your rotors. I've never heard of that except for when using aggressive pads.

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'96 SE-R.... a few tweaks here and there :)
 

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pwnd
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3,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well im not "eatting" them, but it seems they warp easy. Thinking its something with the auto probaly. Im still waiting for someone to bash the auto...it never fails tho.

I hate the people that wait till 10 feet from my ass to slam on the brakes. Id rather slow down when i know there is a stop. I still drive like i drive a piece of ****, when you dont know if the brakes will work or not so better slow down.
 

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Much love for the B-13
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Try throwing the car in "N" when you get to the stop light. Just like a manual. Then you can take your foot off the break pedal and maybe let the car roll to a stop with out as much breaking force required. If the car rolls a bit without the breaks applied it will help the rotor cool more evenly than it would when it has hot break pads pressed against it on one side while the other side is exposed to cooler outside air. That is one of the ways you can warp your rotors. And remember that you don't need to press the button on the selector to go from "D" to "N" and back. I hate having to sit there at a stop light with my foot on the break to keep the car from rolling...thats why all 3 of my cars are manual, that and shifting gears myself is a lot more fun!


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'96 SE-R No bolt unturned...13.82 @ 109.71
'92 E Lots of factory bolts still in place
'92 SE-R all stock with out a sunroof, kicking ass at rallycross!
 

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another factory in rotor warpage is uneven tightening of lug nuts

basically by having one lug nut significantly tighter than the other 3, it kinda "twists" the rotor

for proper lug tightening its best to use a torque wrench (i believe its usually around 80ft-lbs)

of course, i could be talking out my @$$


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Shawn
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current car(s):
1989 Acura Integra LS
1997 200SX SE-R
1973 Super Beetle

Next car:
AE86 Corolla GT-S or
S14 Nissan 240SX (16V DOHC, not 12V SOHC)
 

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pwnd
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Discussion Starter #7
No you are totaly right. Ive warped a rotor that way I think. Cause it happened not too long after i took the wheel off. As for the putting int in Neutral....I dont know. Im not much for not being in the right gear. While I do slip it up to N sometimes cause the idle being dragged down cause of the trans. For all I know I drive hard, i dont think i do. I get accused of being a granny. I dont slam the brakes or even go very fastt, usualy stay below the speed limit. And yes I do preferre manuals, its just I bought the car needing a form of transportation. Its a sentra for crying out loud, I had no idea what the hell a se-r was. All I knew it was loaded more or less. I needed a car fast and cheap and it fit the bill
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Russell:
Try throwing the car in "N" when you get to the stop light. Just like a manual. Then you can take your foot off the break pedal and maybe let the car roll to a stop with out as much breaking force required. If the car rolls a bit without the breaks applied it will help the rotor cool more evenly than it would when it has hot break pads pressed against it on one side while the other side is exposed to cooler outside air. That is one of the ways you can warp your rotors. And remember that you don't need to press the button on the selector to go from "D" to "N" and back. I hate having to sit there at a stop light with my foot on the break to keep the car from rolling...thats why all 3 of my cars are manual, that and shifting gears myself is a lot more fun!


</font>
wouldn't you slow the car down by way of engine braking if you leave it in D?
 

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Much love for the B-13
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[/b][/QUOTE]
wouldn't you slow the car down by way of engine braking if you leave it in D?

[/B][/QUOTE]

Not for the last 10 or 15 mph. Did you ever notice how fast the car moves at idle speed in an auto. The whole time you are at a light you have to be squeezing the break to keep the car from moving forward. Besides, the breaks are much more efficient at slowing the car down. Especially if they are not fighting the engine which is still trying to propel the car forward.
It doesn't matter if you break really hard or really lighly, you will dissipate the same amount of energy from X speed either way. what matters is the amount of cooling air that can get to the rotors. While you are moving you are getting alot more air to the rotors than when you are stopped. I think it depends on driving style. These are MY opinions please take it as such and if you agree, great, and if you don't please don't rip me a new one when you share your opinion.
 
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