[u4ikstilz]

my breaks are shot. i need new pads and rotors. i figured since i need to replace them might as well upgrade. has anybody tried the ebc green stuff and their slotted rotors? i need something affordable too. i'm as broke as a joke. thx for any responses.

------------------
u4ikstilz - stock 9deuce G-twen

 

[NXBen]

If you're broke, why not go with stock rotors (or get yours resurfaced if possible) and some metal master pads? The stock rotors are about $50 each for the fronts from Courtesy. I would highly recommend the Porterfield R4S pads, but they are a bit more pricey than the Metal Masters. IIRC, they were $90 for the front pads alone. The MM pads should only run $100 for the whole set.

Ben

 

[u4ikstilz]

From what i've heard, the MM's wear and tear the rotors (that's what's been posted previously in this forum). How much is it to get them resurfaced? Mine are getting warped too, is that still an option?

 

[enjoyDride]

SMC has a great set and can give you a price break if you are a SERCA memeber, Steve has everything that you are looking for. Personally I prefer the drilled rotors.
Look him up at SE-R.net *vendors*

Alfie...

------------------
92'XE/w-Primera swap
sleepr w/N20

 

[NXBen]

The only issue with surfacing the rotors is making sure there is enough runoff for them to still be resurfaced. If they are already too thin, you can't resurface them.

The brake fluid of choice seems to be Castrol GT-LMA. I know people use other stuff, but you don't really need anything else for street use.

Ben
'93 NX

 

[brian]

g20 does not use same rotors as the se-r

 

[u4ikstilz]

ok here's the deal. i ordered the green stuff for $69 and ebc's "smooth" (i guess that's what i'll call 'em) rotors for $99. they may seem a lil pricier, but it's a g20. btw, everything's in the front. my rear brakes are just fine. thanks for all the input. maddmatt, i've seen a few of your posts on x-drill slotted rotors and that's why i went the way i did. much apreciated.

now if i could just get outta this cardboard box...

 

[MaddMatt]

Once again, I don't care what braking problem you have, crossdrilled and/or slotted rotors are NOT the answer.

If you have the money: Get new STOCK rotors (~$80 for the front), Porterfield R4S or KVR carbon brake pads(~$70 for KVR, ~$90 for R4S), and flush the brake system with fresh fluid ($5). The rotors don't need to be OE Nissan, just don't get drilled or slotted. On the back, I'd use the cheapest pads I could find. I use Advance Auto Wearever pads. $9.

If money is a problem: resurface the rotors ($10 each). Get some OE Nissan pads for the front and Crap pads for the rear ($60 total?). Freshen up the fluid (again, $5).

Either way, you'll stop better.

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[MaddMatt]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">maddmatt, i've seen a few of your posts on x-drill slotted rotors and that's why i went
the way i did. much apreciated.

</font>

Yeah!!! I've influenced someone!! Woo-hoo!!!

Was that $99 for a set or $99 each??

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[u4ikstilz]

$99 for the set and $69 for the other set +$25 shipping a handling, comes to a grand total of $193. hey, what's the best fluid i could go with? if there's only a few bucks difference i'd rather go with the better stuff.

------------------
keep rice on the plates not the streets.
--soon to be modded 92g20

 

[MaddMatt]

Unless your car sees track use (raod course, not drag strip) there is no point in buying high dollar brake fluid. The absolute best brake fluid is Castrol SRF fluid. $75 a liter. I'm not joking.

I use Castrol LMA. You should be able to pick some up for ~$5/bottle. It's dry bp is not that impressive, but it's wet bp is pretty good because it doesn't absorb water as readilly as the racing fluid (get it? LMA = low moisture absorbtion). I've even used this on the track with no problem.

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[NXBen]

Myself and a lot of other autocrossers I know use Castrol GT-LMA.

Ben
'93 NX

 

[brian]

I use motoul 600, but I have also heard that the ford high performance stuff is real good. I think someone did a review in Grassroots and found it to be just as good as some of the $10 bottles.

 

[MaddMatt]

The Motul is great stuff. But it is racing fluid. When I say this, I mean it is made with the assumption that it is going to be flushed on a regular basis (once a month or so). It absorbs more water from the atmosphere than the LMA, if I've been told correctly. So whatever Castrol does to the LMA to help keep it from absorbing water, they didn't do that to the Motul. Moisture in your fluid is bad no matter what the boiling point is. Metal stuff will still corrode and rust.

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[u4ikstilz]

how long is the LMA stuff supposed to last? and to be honest, just my drive to work is harsh on my brakes. so would driving style be an issue?

 

[MaddMatt]

I don't see why it wouldn't be good far a year if not more.

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[Bowlcut]

for daily drivers i always recomend vavoline syntec from walmart. 5 bucks for a quart. seems it lasts for about a year when my peddal starts getting soft again. but at 5 a quart you cant beat it. and it has a good high boiling point for its price. easy to find to. i know many mechanics that race recomend it for street cars that still want some performance.

 

[Trys_Hard]

I installed the Stillen Metal Matrix Pads ($60 set) on the front, found some stock spec rotors made by Brembo for $45 each from a local parts house and flushed the system out with the Valvoline Syntec. My brakes work very well for Autocross and are very predictable with good modulation. I did the work myself and it cost about $175. My rear brakes look to be the original pads and are still 3/4's left with 87k miles on the car!

[This message has been edited by Trys_Hard (edited 10-04-2001).]