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Hey all. I'm hoping to change the brake pads on my '93 Classic. Do I HAVE to bleed them? OR is it a simple take-out-old and put-in-new? TIA. -Danny
 

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Drive it like ya stole it
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Lamchop:
Hey all. I'm hoping to change the brake pads on my '93 Classic. Do I HAVE to bleed them? OR is it a simple take-out-old and put-in-new? TIA. -Danny</font>

Yes...you must bleed them, its a good idea to do it anyway...you must bleed the left rear, right front, right rear, left front...you MUST do it in that order...I'd flush out the old brake fluid as well...put some synthetic stuff in there...you can get some Vavoline synthetic ABS safe fluid...from Advance Auto Parts...for about $5..also go to the hardware store and buy yourself about 4 feet of clear hose...and a little Tupperware container...and you're in business!! E-mail me if you have any questions! Also..to get the cylender to go back into the caliper...I find that a "C" clamp works the best...just leave the old brake pad on there...then put the top of the "C" clamp on the hose-retaining bolt...then put the little swivlle head inside the cylender...as close as you can get it to the center...then tigten it up, then loosen the bleeder-valve...if you're doing the back brakes, its a completly diffrent procedure...if you are, e-mail me and I'll help ya out...later...

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Got 5-th gear pop-out problem?(FROM TalkingEAR) http://www.petitiononline.com/44ndone/
Damn it...I want an SE-R...NOW I HAVE ONE!! Bone Stock though...: (
 

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employment whiplash, NC
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Do I HAVE to bleed
them? OR is it a simple take-out-old and put-in-new? </font>
You do not *have* to. But it is a good idea, not very hard, and not very expensive.

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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
 

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LoSe-R
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While on the subject of brakes.. What is likely to be the problem when the brake pedal is i guess "mushy".. could it be as simple as bleeding them? BTW i got 98k on my car and i have no idea what condition things are in cause i dont know what the previous owner has done. I dont got money for nx brakes or money for bigger wheels so what are my options? New Pads... what brand? Stainless lines? any info would be appreciated
 

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Drive it like ya stole it
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Black93:
While on the subject of brakes.. What is likely to be the problem when the brake pedal is i guess "mushy".. could it be as simple as bleeding them? BTW i got 98k on my car and i have no idea what condition things are in cause i dont know what the previous owner has done. I dont got money for nx brakes or money for bigger wheels so what are my options? New Pads... what brand? Stainless lines? any info would be appreciated</font>
SMC or GOODRIDGE stainless brake lines...AXXIS METAL MASTER Brake pads...you can get them from carparts.com...you can get the goodridge stainless steel lines from carparts.com too...the "Mushy" pedal is mostlikely caused by the brakes needing to be blead...yes...if the pedal goes to the floor, then you have a leak in your brake system somewhere...I'd recomend getting motul brake fluid http://www.motul.com/uk/index.html
if you change the brake lines out, there is no way to get around bleeding...just fallow my bleeding procedures in the second post...let me know if you have any questions...

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Got 5-th gear pop-out problem?(FROM TalkingEAR) http://www.petitiononline.com/44ndone/
Damn it...I want an SE-R...NOW I HAVE ONE!! Bone Stock though...: (
 

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pwnd
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KISS, keep it simple stupid. Its probaly that your fluid is just old. Go grab a bottle of valvoline syntec from walmart, and push though new fluid though the entire system. Using about a half pint to a pint for each wheel, thats what I do. at 5 bucks a quart its good stuff. Put some new pads on, i recomend stock nissan for the fronts and like advanced's wagners or such for the rear. Then bleed them good. Making sure fluid that comes out is clear. Unless you are doing lots of track time the stock pads work great....Funny that at the 2k convention me and dad were as knowledgable or more than Steve at SMC
. Since dad does make brakes for a living. Id do a slimple pad and fluid change. That will work wonders, if you are hard on brakes it will show up in 6 to 12 months. At which point i change the fluid anyway. the lines arent really needed unless you are on track some or think your peddal is really mushy. even tho they dont dramaticly improve that mushiness thats in the MC...they will improve modulation abilty
 

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employment whiplash, NC
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Things that can cause a mushy pedal:
Air in the brake system somewhere.
A brake line that has a bulge in it.
glazed brake pads.

95% of the time, it's the fluid.
4.99% of the time, it's the pads.
.01% of the time, it the brake lines.

If your pedal slowly sinks to the floor, it's usually the master cylinder.

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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
 

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LoSe-R
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So as for new pads ... can i just put new ones in? Is it necessary to resurface rotors every time you get new pads? Im thinking this will be necessary anyways cause im starting to get a faint but bit of a pulse. Where is the cheapest place for braided lines? Also where can i get the motul fluid? Lastly has anyone tried the EBC greenstuff pads? Im thinking no brakedust is a good thing right?

EDIT:

I forgot to ask if incessant rust buildup on the rotors from weekly washes would have any negative affects. And no i dont blast a blazing hot rotor with water, i always wait for the car to cool.

[This message has been edited by Black93 (edited 10-08-2001).]
 

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employment whiplash, NC
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">So as for new pads ... can i just put new ones in?</font>
Yes.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Is it necessary to resurface rotors every
time you get new pads? </font>
No, unless they are grooved or warped.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Im thinking this will be necessary anyways cause im starting to get a
faint but bit of a pulse.</font>
Sounds like they're warped.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Where is the cheapest place for braided lines?</font>
Got some Goodridge lines from Summit Racing for ~$120. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT get brake lines from Russel.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Also where can i get
the motul fluid?</font>
Pegasus Racing. You can also probably find it at motorcycle shops.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Lastly has anyone tried the EBC greenstuff pads? Im thinking no brakedust is
a good thing right?</font>
I'm not a fan of EBC. I've used their Redstuff and Yellowstuff. Not really impressed with either. As I recall you autocross, or just started. Try some Porterfield R4S or KVR brake pads.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I forgot to ask if incessant rust buildup on the rotors from weekly washes would have any
negative affects.</font>
Just looks. I think you can get some cadmium plated rotors that won't rust like that.

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Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01
 
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What's up all? I'm a new SE-R owner, getting my used '91 on Friday. Anyways, it's going to need some rear calipers and rotors.

I've seen some tips on the front rotors and calipers, but any special tips / tricks that y'all think would save me time when I do the rears?

Please let a SE-R newbie know. What tools will I need? Hopefully the install's not too much of a PITA. Thanx.

'91 SE-R
stock but needs work.
 
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