SR20 Inside said:So I've got a broken stud right now and I got a stud extractor from home depot and I was only able to turn it 3/4 of a turn lol and the damn extractor threads are stripping.
Do you guys have any other ways to get it out?
The extractor worked well for me also.The studs were $10.00 each from the $tealership.Just drill slowly.eric96ser said:I broke a stud in my '91, and I bought a set of extractors from Sears. These are the ones you put in a drill, and put the drill in reverse. After you drill into the bolt for a while, you tighten a nut on the extractor, and drill again. Mine broke into the head, and this took it right out. I think I paid $20 for a set of 4.
You know how the extraction bits from home depot come in a package with 1 drill bit and then a corresponding extraction bit at least thats the one I got. So I just need to jump up 1 or 2 sizes on the extraction bit and itll grab better? I'll give it a try today and see what happens.NuttyNate said:I had the same thing happen to me, except the bolt was in the flywheel. I bought the screw extractor thingy from home depot, but couldnt get it to work at first either. my extractor kit came with different size bits, which is what you need.
I was trying to use a bit that was almost the same size as the hole I drilled into the bolt, which is wrong. You need to use an extractor bit that is larger than the hole, it took all of 5 seconds once i switched bits.
Sounds like a good idea the way your dad did it.... if I would drill out a slot in the screw itself and then use a flat head bit to reverse it out.ApacheXMD said:i broke a stud while installing my header, and my dad and I tried getting it out with a HomeDepot screw extractor, but it didn't really work. So believe it or not, my dad took one of those flat screwdriver bits, made sure it was a little bit wider than the drilled hole in the stud, tapped it slightly into the stud, and slowly unscrewed the stud out of the engine. It slipped a few times, so we had to redrill, and rehammer the bit into the stud, but it eventually came out cleanly. We only drilled into the stud about 1/8 or 3/16"
i forgot how far the stud goes into the engine, but the exhaust manifold studs are the same as the studs on the cat/secondary connection. so you can measure off of there to make sure you're not drilling too far.
get a torch, get a good oxidatizing flame going. focus the flame onto the brocken stud. Torch it until is RED and then all of a sudden squart water onto it. The trick here is to heat it RED really quickly and most importantly cooling it really quickly. When you do that to tool steel it forms micro cracks, which then you take a cold chisel and smack it and little bits would fly out towards your eye so watch out.SR20 Inside said:I am f*cked now lol. I got one size bigger extraction bit... tried that and the tip broke off in the broken stud! I tried drilling it out but the material with the bit is alot stronger so it isn't even getting dented.
Any other ideas now? Maybe jbweld the broken stud in and just don't tighten to spec?