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Discussion Starter #1
I did it!

Please tell me what I need to do to fix it.

Wher can I get one in a hurry?



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Erik, 94 Classic with goodies
"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."
 

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Its a special order part.

I broke off one of mine too but there was enough thread to screw another bolt from another car in there. **** man , that really sucks. Which bolt is it? You'll most likely have to drill it out or something. Did it snap with no thread showing?

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Discussion Starter #3


It must be reverse thread on the other end right?

Oh it is the #1 one when you go right to left. Just behind the oil collector


[This message has been edited by Horus (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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thats the same one that broke on mine!!!!
****, yours snapped off right at the threads!! Actually the threads are not reverse. it goes in the same way as if you were just screwing it in. righty tighty. Mine broke off in the middle of the threads.
You might have to wait till Monday to order it from Nissan. Then you gotta drill it out or something. Or you can just say **** it and put alot of gasket sealant around that part of the header. ( ghetto style fix ).
 

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You can try heating up the metal around the snaped studd lightly and take a punch with a narow point and tap it with a hammer to try to turn it out or you could try an easyout but i dont know if they make them that small ?

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92 NX2000, kyb agx, intrax springs, jwt pop,
3a Racing muffler with bonzi tip,
17 " mille miglia mm 112, Yokohama avid h4
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JUST BUY SOME COPPER SEALANT FOR NOW AND HOOK IT UP.



[This message has been edited by SmoothDaddyFig (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How did you move your EGR valve?

I can't seem to get to those 12mm bolts on the back to loosen it up.

BIG hands don't help


[This message has been edited by Horus (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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If your talking about loosening the AIV tube I just loosened up the actual connector thats attached to it. I didnt loosen or move the EGR valve. Is it the AIV tube that you're talking about?
Why are you moving the EGR?
---------wait a minute-------
or are you talking about moving the black box?

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DO NOT TRY HEATING AROUND THE STUD !!!!!!
the head is made of aluminum and will melt.
two ways to get the stud out (niether is easy)
drill the center with an 1/8 drill bit and try an easy out.
the other way is to use a mig welder and weld a nut to the bolt(this wont melt the aluminum) you may have to build the weld out to get enough surface area to weld the nut on.
worst case scenerio is to drill it out and install a heli coil.
If you don't understand this, take it to your Nissan dealer, they have lots of experience removing studs from VG30E engines
 

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Discussion Starter #11


This thing...



It attaches way back here.
 

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can you wait till Monday?


-----UPDATE AFTER SEEING PIC--------
Yeah thats what Im talking about!!
What year is your sentra? Mine is a 94 and I could reach the end of the tube after I took off my intake from the TB and after the BPT was off.
YOU CAN DO IT!! YOu just need to follow that tube back there and loosen up the connector.
No need to loosen the EGR.

[This message has been edited by SmoothDaddyFig (edited 09-08-2001).]

[This message has been edited by SmoothDaddyFig (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea I think I'm going to have to. I'll have to make other arrangements for most of this week's commute. Maybe I'll take a couple of days off.

(I don't feel so good)

LOL but I would like to have as much done as I can ready to go. I'm going to try to drill the broken out after I completely get the manifold off. I need 2 studs anyway. #8 backed out stud and all so I got lucky on that one. The rest were almost too easy and look nice and clean except for the ends.

Yea thought so! Mine is the same as yours. But you have an AIV?? I needed the pulg that was missing from HS. I got a 4th nut instead.

Thanks Chris for that part #!!

[This message has been edited by Horus (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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yea you can move the egr tube that way or you can use the Flat Rate Way (mechanics lingo). loosen the fitting at the manifold and back the threaded portion as far out as possible (use lots of wd40, and don't forget to clean it off afterwards). then loosen the rest of the manifold off the head. use a small pry bar to back the egr tube and manifold off the studs ( the tube will bend a SMALL amount.on reassembly attach the tube first and then manuever the header over the studs. Remember Patience is a virtue here. It may not go the first time. It also helps to have a second pair of hands. I've done numerous exhaust manifolds this way on lots of Nissans.
 

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OOPS, I keep getting the AIV mixed up with the EGR tube thing. DOH!!! Pacesetter didnt give me anything to plug that hole up with, so I just bought a little bolt and nut and plugged the AIV hole up. What header did you get?


[This message has been edited by SmoothDaddyFig (edited 09-08-2001).]
 

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No problem. Good luck.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Horus:
Thanks Chris for that part #!!</font>
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1993 Nissan Sentra SE-R (5-Speed Manual)
STILLEN Hi-Flow Intake
STILLEN Performance Exhaust
Hotshot Racing Header
Kosei K1 Silver Racing Wheels
Dunlop SP Sport 5000 Tires
 

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(flash back, flash backs go away.)
DAMN! Looks almost like what mine did.
Except on mine some studs screwed off and some didnt. But that right one was busted for sure.

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Pacesetter Foe Life!
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you're lucky.
usually its the one on number 1 cylinder, (by the alternator). Well you're going to have to drill it. Start small. like 1/8"
try to center it as much as possible, use a center punch. Drilling can be tricky. There's a coolant passage right behind the stud!!!!!!! You've probably got about 3/4" of stud left in the hole. this goes more by feel than anything else. best thing to do is get the new stud on Mon. and compare it to the broken one. then you will know how far you can drill
 

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I had the same problem when I installed my first header a few years ago. I also believe it was broken at the factory... the manifold had never before been off the car and there were definite signs of a leak since there was carbon all around that part of the manifold on the gasket.

Anyhow, we ended up having to use an angle drill to start a hole in the stud since clearances were tight. First, I would make sure you soak the area around the stud with a couple of treatments of liquid wrench or the like (PB Blaster is great if you can find it) and tap it very lightly with a rubber hammer to try and break the rusty seal.

Then center punch the stud as close to the middle of the stud as possible. Try using a left-handed drill bit first. Once the drill bit catches on the stud it will catch and try to turn the stud out. If this doesn't work try the ez-outs. Go slowly and have lots of patience.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #20
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by dgerryts:
Remember Patience is a virtue here. It may not go the first time.B]</font>
Thank you! I sure know that now. I can get to the
bolts in the back with a box wrench if you go at then towards the firewall and fish your hand in. But it is awful nice to hear from a guy who dose it for a living!

How long are those bolts?? I DO NOT want to back them out tooo much! That would realy make my day!!

It is a Hotshot header gen4.


Homer- "OOOOOo Shiny!"


[This message has been edited by Horus (edited 09-08-2001).]
 
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