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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Calum basic tune ECU and a internally stock VE with intake, header, light weight flywheel, and high flow cat. I worked my timing up from 5* untill I got to 10* and that is where it is now. I searched and I read about people still using 15* timing on a VE but they had a JWT ECU or cams or both.

Friday night drags are coming up and I would like to know if it will be safe to advance the timing more than what it is now with my set up. I do not want detonation! I also do not want the knock sensor to pull timing.

Any help would be great. thanks.
 

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CAR SLÜT
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I can't speak for the Calum ECU but if you check the ECU program using Consult and match the ignition timing from the ECU to the crank pulley timing, it should be good.

I would check with Calum as to what base timing can be used.
 

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Turd Furgeson
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I emailed Calum about this when I got my ECU updated. He said its only good at 15 for 16ve cams. For stock cams its less. I think someone wrote that it was more like 12 when he dynoed his set-up with Calum ECU and stock cams. YMMV. The only way to know better is to dyno.
 

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pwnd
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yea last i remembered a stock sr20ve cams wanted less timing with the base VE tune. How much really depends on your car. But it was less than 15*, like 10-12 ish. its all what the A/F does and where the power is being made. without wideband and a dyno you are just rough butt tuning. thats basicly what calum would probably tell ya too...hes still on the road and staying at places without internet connections. He expects to be back in town late tomorrow and i think he's going to work friday so he will be able to check his email then
 

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CAR SLÜT
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Based on the above info, then when the ECU ign timing is reading 15 [email protected], then the crank pulley should be at 12 degrees?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Based on the above info, then when the ECU ign timing is reading 15 [email protected], then the crank pulley should be at 12 degrees?
I believe the way it works is the ECU expects to have the correct timing all the time, but we can change the timing. When we change the timing it will effect the ECU's timing throughout the entire rpm range. So if you advance or retard timing 2* it will add or subtract that 2* through out the rpm range.

Any ways I may be able to use the quarter mile times and the butt dyno for now utill I can afford an adjustable FPR and a real dyno run.

Thanks guys I will let you know what happens, and I'll be posting up 1/4 mile times saturday.
 

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CAR SLÜT
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Yes, that is the way it works. It also means, that the ign table could be modified to have 3 degrees taken off most of the ign table on the Calum ECU map, with idle set at 15 degrees and the crank pulley set at 15 degrees to improve low rpm torque and the base idle...

Either way, 12 degrees should provide a good tune on your car.
 

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AKA-- JJKAMIKAZE
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no matter what i set the crank to my calum ecu always reads 16-18 for the timing. so i just set the crank to about 16 and it runs pretty strong. any less and it runs like a turd.
 

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Luke Pighetti
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no matter what i set the crank to my calum ecu always reads 16-18 for the timing. so i just set the crank to about 16 and it runs pretty strong. any less and it runs like a turd.
The ECU doesn't read what the timing is when you are in timing mode. it just ASSUMES you will set it to 15*. If you set it to 17* it's like adding +2* ignition timing to all your ignition maps. The computer thinks it's set to 15* but you have it advanced 2*.
 

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CAR SLÜT
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The ECU doesn't read what the timing is when you are in timing mode. it just ASSUMES you will set it to 15*. If you set it to 17* it's like adding +2* ignition timing to all your ignition maps. The computer thinks it's set to 15* but you have it advanced 2*.
Depends on what the base ignition timing value mapping is when the TPS is reading 5V... Hence why I usually connect a Consult output up and reference the ECU ign timing figure to the crank pulley.

For example, if you set a DE up on 15 degrees crank pulley with 15 degrees of ECU timing, then remove the DE ECU and plug in a GTiR ECU, the ECU will read 20 degrees and the crank pulley will have 20 degrees.

I set most of my VE ECU maps to 18 degrees base timing, with the crank pulley set to 18 as well.
 

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from what i understand, the timing shown with consult is based on the assumption the car is running stock static timing.

eg a car with static timing = 15, when the ecu shows 15, this means the ecu is not changing timing from what the static timing is set to.

if you were to change static timing to 18 degrees (while ecu is locked at 15 in timing mode), and then after, change the ecu's timing across the range by 3 degrees, you've just increased total timing by 6 degrees - 3 via static, 3 via ecu's offsets (against the static 15 degrees).

generally if u have a tunable ecu, it's better to leave static as is, and change ecu timing, then to change both (as you'll just end up confusing yourself as to the actual timing).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We only have 91 here in A.Z. and yeah it does seem to run better/faster. Unfortunately I just ran some realy bad times.

1st run

Tire pressure was at 25 psi with falken Ziex's.

RT: .410 ( I know, realy bad)
60' 2.3
330' 6.768
1/8mi: 10.150
MPH: 73.45
1000' 13.005
1/4mi: 15.440
MPH: 92.67

2nd and final run because the place was packed and the line was impossibly long.

Tire pressure at 19 psi.

RT: .135 ( Better, but I've done .016 once before)
60' 2.570
330' 6.705
1/8mi: 10.038
MPH: 74.32
1000' 12.869
1/4mi: 15.289
MPH: 93.26

The first run I had a lot of wheel hop and I so I shifted first gear at 6k rpm's. The last run I did'nt have any wheel hop but I messed up the launch because I was only at 2k rpm's and the first was 3k. I need to get rid of the 2 1/4" exhaust and go for some three inch out the side lol. I also need to find a way to check the AFR. and better tires and wheels.
 

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SR20 POWA
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132 Posts
not to steal your thread but heres wat i ran last nite with my VE b13.
sr16ve cams, ssac header, de ecu, de maf, de injectors, 2 1/4 cat back, NFPR, street tires at 15 psi...i thought i would do better than dis..even my jdm motor hit 14.9..had a total 3 runs..1 run the okay other 2 sucked cuz i couldnt get no traction...maybe i just need some major tuning since my calum ecu not working properly..

RT: .466
60' 2.308
330' 6.347
1/8mi: 9.630
MPH: 74.68
1000' 12.448
1/4mi: 14.839
MPH: 93.66

i know i know...im using the DE ecu and INJ but i know it cant make my times that bad right...

i would of used my calum ecu/VE maf but i tink the ecu is messed up..its runs fine and everything but its just keeps blowing a fuse everytme i go for a drive...itll blow the fuse out for the all the guages..so then theres no rpm signal cuz the fuse went out and no VVL too..when i put a new fuse its works again ..it'll only work when the car is idle the go for a drive it blow...anyoone ever encounter this problem w/calum ecu..
 

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the proof wizard
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3,573 Posts
the stock base timming on the ve ecu is 10 degrees, calum uses a sr16ve timming map which means you should set the timming to 10 degrees. unless you go to the dyno and play with it until you reach your best curve.... with sr16 cams i dynoed the best with 12 degrees...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am going to be making a custom 3" side exit exhaust and then get an adjustable FPR and maybe some light weight wheels and some good tires and then a dyno run to get the FPR adjusted and also the timing! I know this engine has a lot more power than my old DE has because traction has become an issue, but with a little more work to the DE and I could have run numbers like this easy! Although the VE still has a lot more potential, I just need to unleash it!

Duntmessda_s, No I have'nt had that issue with my Calum ECU maybe you have the wrong amperage fuse in there? Thats not to bad a run with a stock DE ECU and DE injectors.

Thanks for the tips coryb13ser I am about to go out there and play with the timing. So, untill dyno day!
 

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the proof wizard
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3,573 Posts
when u get dyno, just make a pass at 10degrees, then advance move a bit, try another run, and if you made more power keep going untill you stop making power go back to where it was the best and mark it.. good luck
 

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SR20 POWA
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132 Posts
the fuse is a 10 amp..maybe i should try a 15 amp...anyways i've hit 15.3 with the 2.2 @ 60 ft and missed 2nd gear real bad too..so i know i could of hit at leats 14.7 or lower..that run i smoke a GT0...i guess he could drive...haha
 
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