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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I installed some JWT cam gears that have 2.5 increments. I advanced the intake by one setting ( +2.5*), and retareded the exhaust one setting ( -2.5*). I had one hell of a time doing the cam gears, and of course the chain came loose and I was worried that the chain was off of the crank. So I went to set the cams for the new settings, and lined everything up, making sure the crank was at TDC (Second notch from the far left of the pulley). Checked to ensure that there's 20 pins between the teeth and that the notches are at 10 and 12.

Put everything back together and cranked her up, and no start. Heard a lound sound from under the hood that sounded like the chain slipped or something. Immediately feared the worst, and pulled he valve cover and cranked by hand to put motor at TDC. Well, the links were STILL lined up, like everything was okay.

I haven't put the cams back to stock settings yet, because I honestly don't think it's going to make a difference. Anyone have any ideas? Smells really rich with fuel too when it's cranking, pulling the plugs doesn't show any signs otherwise.

I may still put the cam gears back to stock settings, just because I need the car to run to get me to work on Tuesday. Either that or the wifey will just have to stay home.

Is there a possibility that the chain tensioner isn't tightening the chain anymore? I noticed on the exhaust side that the chain is a little loose, to the crank, while the tension is tight between the cams, and between the crank and the intake cam.

Thanks in advance!
 

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AWD owns me
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Advance the chain so there is no slack on the exhaust side. How much slack is on the tensioner side? I usually pop the plunger thingy right before I throw the vc cover on.
 

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HATER
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crank it by hand, you probably should do this every time you tuch the tensioner. i found that out the hard way.

if the engine isn't already cranking and all you hear is the starter kinda whining but not going anywhere, you couldof bent some vavles brah.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, as I was falling asleep last night, that **** popped into my head about the exhaust side needing to be tight, and the intake side having the slack, thus having the tensioner on the intake side. The motor never refused to crank, thankfully, so I'm thinking no valves were harmed, HOPEFULLY.

Well I'm off to correct this problem, hopefully she'll be running by lunch. I really wanna see if these cam gears gave me back some low end. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Damnit Erich, leave me be. :tongue: I just wasn't really thinking about it, and had a small audience that kept bothering me all damn day in the garage. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Small audience??

Did it consist of a pretty wife dancing in thigh highs?? :running:

Cheers-
Erich
Pretty much :rofl:

Time to go back to working on the car :ugh:
 

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pwnd
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LOL

Tho yea, you should always spin the motor a few times by hand after reinserting the tensioner. Make sure it pops before you put the VC back on. And make sure you are at number 1 cylinder TDC....not just the marker. Do the old school method, take spark plug out, put a loooong screw driver in there, move it till screw driver goes up then just starts to come down. and pull it back a tad. It should be on the crank pulley right but i just double check myself with this.

always always always turn motor a few times by hand after an install, go though all 4 cylinders though all 4 of their strokes. that way if something gets in a bind, you feel it.
 

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LOL

Tho yea, you should always spin the motor a few times by hand after reinserting the tensioner. Make sure it pops before you put the VC back on. And make sure you are at number 1 cylinder TDC....not just the marker. Do the old school method, take spark plug out, put a loooong screw driver in there, move it till screw driver goes up then just starts to come down. and pull it back a tad. It should be on the crank pulley right but i just double check myself with this.

always always always turn motor a few times by hand after an install, go though all 4 cylinders though all 4 of their strokes. that way if something gets in a bind, you feel it.
Extremely good advice here. Bent valves are not worth saving a couple minutes of extra work!

_SHig
 

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Im Not A Chick
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Small audience??

Did it consist of a pretty wife dancing in thigh highs?? :running:

Cheers-
Erich
lmao!! so did you ever figure this out or what>
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, question. Checked and double checked chain tension now, everything seems right. However, I'm worried about something...

When I rotate the crank by hand a few rotations, on the easiest part of the rotation, (not sure if it's the downstroke, or upstroke, but I assume downstroke), I get a series of a couple of "clicks". They're about an 1/8th turn of the crank apart from eachother, and are just like a tick noise, not too loud or anything. I would have thought to hear something like this if the motor were binding somehow, not while I'm on the less resistant part of the turn of the crank...

Any ideas? Please tell me it's not a valve problem, I really don't need to deal with that issue right now, as I don't have a spare set just laying around. Nor do I have a car to drive to work, ATM.
 

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That's the sound of slack between the cam sprockets. The cams have "happy spots" where they'll snap to, and when the intake cams snaps forward to it's happy spot, it slacks the chain between the sprockets. Similarly, the exhaust cam may snap forward to its happy spot, pulling the intake along, especially if you don't have the tensioner installed yet.

As you turn the crank, use your hand to tension between the sprockets and see if that makes any difference.

_SHig
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, so what you're saying has me thinking that the tensioner could be shot? It does take some force to push in, as in not compressable easily by hand, but when compressing against concrete, doesn't take a whole heck of a lot. Not sure how much tension it SHOULD have...
 

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Nah, the tensioner's not necessarily shot. Oil pressure does the work, the spring is just for engine-off conditions. It is unlatched though, right?

_SHig
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, it's unlatched. I guess I'll just rotate by hand some more until I get back to TDC, and stick the screwdriver back in cylinder #1 to verify I'm at TDC with the cam gears at 10 and 12 respectively. I never thought just changing my damn cam gears would have caused me such a headache. :ugh:

Thanks SHig. :) I'm not SO worried now, just need to make sure this damn car runs. IDK what to do, if it doesn't start up this time. May just yank the damn cam gears out and put the stockers back in. Don't know why that would cause it to fix itself, though...
 

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pwnd
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make sure its unlachted thats the big thing. and you should have your twenty rollers between the dots when #1 is at TDC. If you dont want to have to turn sooooo hard, take out all 4 spark plugs. then put car in neutral. Motor should turn without so much effort and should be no hard spots. It should just spin and spin. Noises.... chain is noisy thing. But tensioner should be out. back side of chain should be taught. its not like a belt where its super tight. front side of chain should have some play, all around things should be taught
 

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Discussion Starter #18
make sure its unlachted thats the big thing. and you should have your twenty rollers between the dots when #1 is at TDC. If you dont want to have to turn sooooo hard, take out all 4 spark plugs. then put car in neutral. Motor should turn without so much effort and should be no hard spots. It should just spin and spin. Noises.... chain is noisy thing. But tensioner should be out. back side of chain should be taught. its not like a belt where its super tight. front side of chain should have some play, all around things should be taught
Funny you mention the difficulty of rotating the block... I've always felt it difficult to rotate the block on certain strokes, even with all spark plugs out. There has always been 20 rollers between the marks on the cam gears. Tensioner is unlatched.

Anyhow, about to go attempt to fire it up again, since I've just finished putting it back together. If it doesn't fire up this time, I'm going to throw the stock cam gears back on, just for shits and grins. This thing has been a pain in my ass, thus far...
 

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pwnd
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well it will be a little harder on compression strokes but with the plugs out, it should be fairly easy...or im just superman :D

you post too much. your keyboard must be oily as crap....work on car....not forum :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well it will be a little harder on compression strokes but with the plugs out, it should be fairly easy...or im just superman :D

you post too much. your keyboard must be oily as crap....work on car....not forum :D
:rofl: I work on the car while on the notebook. It's a toughbook that work gave me, so I'm not worried about it getting dirty. And I do post too much, I AM a post whore. :biggthump
 
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