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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Bullshit. Doesn't start, still. Smells like fuel really bad under the hood. Going to put the ****ing cam gears back at stock positions, and see if I can get it to start. This **** is retarded. :mad:
 

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Does the engine chug chug chug normally while cranking? Or does it sound like you didn't reinstall one or more sparkplugs? I can't imagine that 2.5* of adjustment would prevent starting.

Doesn't sound good...

_SHig
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Does the engine chug chug chug normally while cranking? Or does it sound like you didn't reinstall one or more sparkplugs? I can't imagine that 2.5* of adjustment would prevent starting.

Doesn't sound good...

_SHig
Chug chug chug, but not free spirited chug as it used to. Another thing, is the raw fuel in the combustion chambers. Plugs are soaked when I pull them out.


I hope it's nothing serious, or I'll be HIGHLY pissed.
 

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pwnd
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give the engine a once over. Make sure you didnt pull loose a fuel line or the such while working on it. Like removing the VC and you pull the vac hoses off...you could have snaged something and not noticed it. Just take a good look at it. Pull on everything, tug on wires, tug on hoses, tug on yourself....look for stuff that might be out of place. start from one side and go to the other. did you pull anything off the distributor by accident?

what noises does it make? if you can try a different set of plug wires. We had a set go bad at Ben Davis's once. Literally pulled them off the car, sat aside, came back to them 3 days later to put them on, and they were dead. A spare set of stockers fired the car right up.

Doesnt moving the exhaust 2.5* also move the distributer? Doesnt that affect timing? Could be out of time now.... Just brain storming. Ive actualy never put on a set of adjustable cam gears, just stockers
 

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pull plugs let them dry and let the engine dry. Throw the battery on a charger if you have one as it may be going south quick...try a different battery as well. If you are not getting it started all that turning will drain it fast.

retard the timing on the distributer a bit. leave it loose and move it while you try to start see if it makes a difference. Also try new plug wires if possible.

Check all your electrical connections, as sounds like you are getting fuel...duh. you could try the "clear flood" mode, hold accelerator to floor while cranking.

but i say this...pull all plugs let them dry. Find spare set of plug wires. Put battery on charger. Go eat lunch..... come back with a clear mind in about 30min to an hour. Go over engine with fine tooth comb. Its electrical at this point. Engine is spinning and not making clanking noises so its not mechancial. You are getting fuel...so its not that. Assume air is there and maf is ok.....assumptions. So its electrical of some form
 

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Chug chug chug, but not free spirited chug as it used to. Another thing, is the raw fuel in the combustion chambers. Plugs are soaked when I pull them out.


I hope it's nothing serious, or I'll be HIGHLY pissed.
Not free spirited: Probably draining your battery. As long as you have four even pulses with some rrRAR-rrRAR-rrRAR-rrRAR sound, you probably didn't bend any valves. Wet plugs - did you install the coil wire? Distributor plug?


give the engine a once over. Make sure you didnt pull loose a fuel line or the such while working on it. Like removing the VC and you pull the vac hoses off...you could have snaged something and not noticed it. Just take a good look at it. Pull on everything, tug on wires, tug on hoses, tug on yourself....look for stuff that might be out of place. start from one side and go to the other. did you pull anything off the distributor by accident?

what noises does it make? if you can try a different set of plug wires. We had a set go bad at Ben Davis's once. Literally pulled them off the car, sat aside, came back to them 3 days later to put them on, and they were dead. A spare set of stockers fired the car right up.

Doesnt moving the exhaust 2.5* also move the distributer? Doesnt that affect timing? Could be out of time now.... Just brain storming. Ive actualy never put on a set of adjustable cam gears, just stockers
Yes, the dizzy does move to match the same timing, but it's minor. You'll end up with the dizzy leaned back a 1.75* towards the firewall if you did a 2.5* exhaust retard. Still, shouldn't prevent you from starting the thing.

Don't pull the sprockets yet. I don't think it's the issue.

_SHig
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Okay, pulled the VC yet again, set the motor to TDC. Going to take an assload of pictures for you guys to look at. Then I need to get it put back together and running, whether new cam gears or old. Just need it to get me to work and I'll continue with this **** next weekend. Pics to follow shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Cliff-

To answer your question earlier... The dowel pins at 10 and 12 respectively... It will take forever to get the color links... You can also guesstimate the first cylinder's cam lobes...

Cheers-
Erich

We colored the links, so that when the crank is at TDC, that they matched up with the cam gears (when the gears were stock.). The colored links show lining up to the dots.

Pics to follow.
 

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I agree with them man. Doesnt sound like it's mechanical since your getting fuel and the motor is turning over. Sounds like your not getting spark for some reason. Have you checked to insure your getting spark? I'd do that first. You got all that fuel in your cylinders not getting burned up. So you cant be getting spark for some reason. Some freak accident proberly happened. You did cam gears and a fuse might of blew out or something. It happens, just to piss us off.


P.S- Nice clean motor you got there. She's looking healthy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
If I'm counting right... It looks like 22 dowel pins?

Cheers-
Erich
Erich, Isn't it 20 dowel pins BETWEEN the teeth? IE: The colored link, has two dowel pins. One outside the dot, and one on the inside of the dot, on the chain. Therefore, there are 20 total pins between the dots. These cam gears also have the marks on the center of the cam gears, to indicate the location of where the dowel pin would have been, for 10 and 12 o' clock positions.

I agree with them man. Doesnt sound like it's mechanical since your getting fuel and the motor is turning over. Sounds like your not getting spark for some reason. Have you checked to insure your getting spark? I'd do that first. You got all that fuel in your cylinders not getting burned up. So you cant be getting spark for some reason. Some freak accident proberly happened. You did cam gears and a fuse might of blew out or something. It happens, just to piss us off.


P.S- Nice clean motor you got there. She's looking healthy.
Thanks for the clean comment. As far as electonics goes, I'm not sure what it is. I'm starting to wonder if I should pull the dizzy out towards the radiator, if that would get it to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Bump. Don't wanna be a PITA, but I would like to have it running by tomorrow. I may just put it back to stock if there aren't any suggestions.
 

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pwnd
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Once again, I think mechanically the install is sound. But I think you have an electrical problem now. Was the very first step....after pick up wrench.....to disconnect the battery? Did you do that absolutely first? I do wonder if you might have arc'd somewhere. But...beyond that. I think you may have bad leads or the such. Have you went over every electrical connection at the distributer and maf area? I mean pull and tug on each connector, heck i go so far as disconnecting and reconnecting things over there. Thats what I do when we start trouble shooting engines. Pull out the timing light. Hook it to number 1, power it, and have someone crank the engine. you should get flashes. Go to each spark plug and do that. You should get a flash. Then your wires are likely...likely good.

I swear its likely to be one of those forehead smacking moments. You are going to see something and go "duh crap I missed that". Like when Eric was doing cams on a qr25. There was a tiny vac hose on the back of the manifold that got missed. Car wouldnt idle for crap and die after 10 seconds. Its going to be one of those things i tell ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well for shits and grins, I set the cam gears back to stock positions (1 on the JWT's), and the whole motor seems to turn easier, or maybe it's just me...

Going to button it up right now and TRY to fire it up to see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
It was mechanical timing. Set both cams back to 1, and fired it up. It runs, but is weak, and that's because I believe that it's still off a tooth on either one of the cams, or it's off on the crank.

I'll take a look at it after dinner tonight, but my timing gun isn't working for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Question.

With cams at precisely 10 and 12 o'clock, the crank pulley is on the very last mark, which would be 20*. Any clue how many teeth I am off on the cams? Mind you that they are both still lining up with 20 links in between teeth. My timing is off, but not horribly so. Need this resolved, thanks.
 
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