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NX Cruiser
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We are all noob on something!!! Ive done many things with my egg but always fixing something new that Ive never done... For that new fix, Im a noob.. I would rather be the noob than paying someone to make the same noob mistakes!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
You're both absolutely right on all accounts (even the Erich FW-undoubtable-W :rofl: )

Now, I do know a bit more, regardless of how small it may be. As a matter of fact, I know now, that our motors are extremely tolerable to noob mistakes, and after the Nissan bites you a few times, she'll let you under her hood, and everything starts to make sense.

Wouldn't have been able to do it, though, without the help of some of you on these forums. You know who you are :grouphug:
 

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after the Nissan bites you a few times, she'll let you under her hood, and everything starts to make sense.
Some of the truest words that can be said about our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
She pulls great, now.

Before, with just a drop in install, it felt almost as if the car had VTEC, in that around 4500 it really opened up and pulled you. Now, it feels like I've gained my low end back, and it still pulls to redline. Feels really good!

Just can't wait to get the damn turbo install started. IDK why, but I keep finding ways to put it off. Maybe I'm just nervous that I'm going to fuq something else up. It's been my luck lately, with this car. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
get her done....if i have to go thru rebuilding my det then you have to do the turbo setup!
:rofl: Sorry, I shouldn't laugh, becuase it sucks that you have to rebuild your DET :( I guess I'm just a procrastinator. Really it's not going to be difficult, but the piping/FMIC and the exhaust is what I'm more worried about. I don't have easy access to a lift, so it's going to be a little tricky getting it done.
 

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713 ways to be a dick!
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4,652 Posts
The whole chain falling off the crank is something I feared when I first re-assembeled an SR for a friend of mine. The reality is that there is a guide cast in to the oil pump housing to keep the chain from falling off. It would take some serious ****ing around witht he chain completely slacked and falling in to the cover to get it to come off the bottom, at least that was what I found when I assembeled that SR. I marked the chain link with the motor at TDC compression on cyl 1 and could not get it to skip.

I know the car is fixed but I figured I'd post this as an FYI.

Nice work on helping him out guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
She pulls great, now.

Before, with just a drop in install, it felt almost as if the car had VTEC, in that around 4500 it really opened up and pulled you. Now, it feels like I've gained my low end back, and it still pulls to redline. Feels really good!
Well, after doing a few pulls down the street from the house on an abandoned road project, I now know why it doesn't pull hard around 4K~5K. It's leaning out REALLY bad. I'm guessing that with the overlap, now, that it's not getting enough fuel in that area, whereas it was perfect at about 14.2 on the AFR before.

Going to hook up the notebook to the ECU today and add more fuel between 4K~4600rpm and see how it pulls, and if it still leans out really bad. Maybe I just need to take away some timing, too.
 

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713 ways to be a dick!
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Well, after doing a few pulls down the street from the house on an abandoned road project, I now know why it doesn't pull hard around 4K~5K. It's leaning out REALLY bad. I'm guessing that with the overlap, now, that it's not getting enough fuel in that area, whereas it was perfect at about 14.2 on the AFR before.

Going to hook up the notebook to the ECU today and add more fuel between 4K~4600rpm and see how it pulls, and if it still leans out really bad. Maybe I just need to take away some timing, too.
14.2 AFR under full throttle in that area? That is super lean bro, even on an NA car. O are you simply data logging while cruising under partial throttle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
14.2 AFR under full throttle in that area? That is super lean bro, even on an NA car. O are you simply data logging while cruising under partial throttle?
These were partial throttle "pulls". Under WOT, it used to be in the 12.5~13 range. This program is un-tuned, to say the least. I'm not worried about everything dyno tuned until I mount the snail.

Everywhere in the power range, other than 4K to about 5K, right now, under WOT, is in the 11's and 12's. Leans out REALLY bad into 16's and 17's under WOT in this area.

Don't have datalogging capability on the EUGO right now, either :( Just watching the AFR on the wideband around 4K.
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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My timing chain was rattling, so I removed the tensioner to switch it out, but I forgot to set the crank pulley to Top Dead Center. I also rotated the crank pulley in order to get it to TDC without the tensioner in place, which caused the timing chain to skip at least one cam-sprocket tooth. Eventually the motor came to a point where it was binding and I was no longer able to rotate the crank manually.
When I continued to rotate the crank manually to bring it to TDC, I could hear the pistons make contact with valves. Eventually, the motor was binding ( I have been told), so I cranked counterclockwise to find TDC.
I looked at the cam sprocket keys (dowels), and they were slightly off to the left, but evenly so. The FSM says they should be pointing to "ABOUT 10 and 12 o'clock", so despite being a touch off to the left,it did not seem wrong.
The cam lobes for cylinder 1 were pointing away from each other, Intake to 10, Exhaust to 2. I found this a little odd, given almost every comment I have seen says the lobes will point away 180 degrees away from each other symetrically. Mine were facing away from each other symetrically, but not 180 degrees opposite each other.
I also realized there were only 18 chain link PINS between the two marks on the cam sprockets, which with the binding convinced me the chain had skipped at least one sprocket tooth. But which sprocket? I had rotated the crank both clockwise and counter-clockwise.
To correct this binding, I set my crank pulley to TDC and pulled of the intake cam sprocket and positioned the chain so that there would be 20 pins instead of 18 between the two sprocket marks. I did not remove or turn the cam from it's "bed" of cam caps.
I then re-fastened the cam sprocket bolt and torqued it to spec.
Now there are 20 pins between the two sprocket marks, the sprocket keys are slightly oriented towards the left of exactly 10 and 12 o'clock, BUT the Intake cam lobe points to 9.5 and the Exhaust cam lobe points to 2 (imagine the numbers on a clock).

Is this difference in cam lobe position normal? If not, how should the cam lobes on cylinder 1 be facing? Please use the numbers on the face of a clock to describe their orientation.
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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Could you please let me know something? I have been looking and looking and can not find the answer to this question. Because the timing chain is not a "serviceable" part, I am unable to find this answer in the FSM. Here is my question: When the timing chain tensioner is extended and putting tension on the slack side guide, should there be any slack in the chain, in the section between the two cam sprockets? I have not run the engine yet. I had to reset the chain, as it had skipped a tooth when I was installing the new tensioner. Will oil pressure affect the amount of pressure that the tensioner exerts on the chain guide? (It is a mechanical, ratcheting-type of tensioner, so I have been under the impression that the oil pressure doesn't affect the force exerted by the tensioner.)
 
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