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Yes, the car was in timing mode (in other words, the TPS is unplugged).

With the TPS plugged in, the ECU takes over and makes the idle better, but still not good.

With the TPS un-plugged (timing mode), it will only idle if I advance the timing (distributor turned clockwise) almost to its limit and back the idle screw out almost all the way - even then it is a rough idle and it wonders between 700 and 1100 rpm.

I haven't tried disconnecting the battery or pulling the EFI fuse, but it doesn't seem like that could be it...with the TPS unplugged the ECU does not control the idle.
 

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JWT said the cam timing looks good and asked me to do a compression test. I'm going to be pissed if I have bent valves...this job is turning into a nightmare. The instructions didn't say to do anything special before starting it to make sure the valves wouldn't crash into the pistons.
 

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No compression on #3...I don't know what happened, but I guess the head is coming off now. What do I do differently next time? I followed the instructions and I had the cam timing right all along.
 

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JWT said I may have a bad lash adjuster...so maybe I don't have a bent valve afterall. Next step is a leakdown test...I don't have a tester, so I'll probably take it somewhere. I'll post the results.
 

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not to bring back this thread, but just wanted to say this is an awesome thread. it gave me the balls to finally sh*t with my car. last summer i had to remove a ported head that was poop and replace it with the other head i had. well lemme just say, the cams werent installed correctly and were actully off a link and a half. i dont really drive the car much, so i wasnt exactly in a hurry to fix it. but yeah, this thread helped me fix it myself with no problems what so ever. on a side note, took some pix, and wanted to show you all the inside of my 8k mile motors head.




and heres what it sound like with 17 links in between the timing marks





just want to thank the people who posted such good info in this thread. these directions make it so simple anybody should be able to do it.
 

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Great thread . Everything I needed to start my first cam R&R. Thanks to all of you in the forum that contributed to this. STICKY. lol
 

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Ricer_X_01 said:
not to bring back this thread, but just wanted to say this is an awesome thread. it gave me the balls to finally sh*t with my car. last summer i had to remove a ported head that was poop and replace it with the other head i had. well lemme just say, the cams werent installed correctly and were actully off a link and a half. i dont really drive the car much, so i wasnt exactly in a hurry to fix it. but yeah, this thread helped me fix it myself with no problems what so ever. on a side note, took some pix, and wanted to show you all the inside of my 8k mile motors head.




and heres what it sound like with 17 links in between the timing marks





just want to thank the people who posted such good info in this thread. these directions make it so simple anybody should be able to do it.
Hey those roller rockers are DIFFERENT than mine? Oh.... their just clean :laugh:
That thing sounds like a bike! Can I use your pictures for an info thread?
 

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15642uner
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yeah i dont mind :)
 

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Ricer_X_01 said:
not to bring back this thread, but just wanted to say this is an awesome thread. it gave me the balls to finally sh*t with my car. last summer i had to remove a ported head that was poop and replace it with the other head i had. well lemme just say, the cams werent installed correctly and were actully off a link and a half. i dont really drive the car much, so i wasnt exactly in a hurry to fix it. but yeah, this thread helped me fix it myself with no problems what so ever. on a side note, took some pix, and wanted to show you all the inside of my 8k mile motors head.




and heres what it sound like with 17 links in between the timing marks





just want to thank the people who posted such good info in this thread. these directions make it so simple anybody should be able to do it.
Sounds hot :D I love it. It's like a cross between a muscle car and a bike :D I could only imagine pulling up to a chevelle with a car sounding like that. I'd bet the driver would look at my car like WTF?!
 

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hahahaaa :D s3r's with the cam timing off a couple teeth . . . ran like ****, but people would look at it like wtf, then be like thats cool as hell! ill have to record what it sounds like now, not as crazy, but still lopes really nice.
 

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I just want to say thank you to those that contributed to this thread since it's just saved my ass. My RWD SR jumped a couple tooth due to me being careless during a cam install, and I fixed it in a couple of hours thanks to this thread.

Edit: Running like a champ now.
 

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lol. I belong to a lot forums and over time I have become a bit jaded with it all. But in all honestly, this is one the best threads I have ever read. You guys are THE MOST patient and friendly people I have ever run across. Any other forum would have abandoned iMagnusX after page 2. And huge props to iMagnusX for not only thanking the people who helped him (instead of leaving everyone hanging), but also showing true grit by sticking out the problem until it was resolved.
Good stuff guys!
 

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This diagram showing top dead center was passed along to me by sss4me on sr20forum.com .

Look at where the sprocket teeth line up with respect to the mating surface of the head.

1966
 

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I think I'd being doing the same thing as in eric's instructions, since the cams are seemingly in the right spot with the motor at TDC (BDC? they can be put on safely is what I know) but the timing in the chain is unaccounted for.
 
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