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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was installing my new Bolt-On Bars B14 Rear Strut Bar and came across something disturbing. I've noticed the center hole on the passenger side Motivational Mounts expanded across the mount. No wonder I hear the so-called rear suspension noise associated with these mounts. The strut nut is on tightly and securely on the AGX shocks. The shock itself has plenty of play and can't be tighten any more. I've already contact Motivational Engineering and aware them of this problem and hopefully something can be done.

So if anyone else is running these mounts, just do an inspection and see if you have the same problem I'm having.

Here's a pic of the expanding center hole. You can't really see how much it expaned but the center hole is an indication it's not sitting properly.

 

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713 ways to be a dick!
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That is indiciative of improper installation, at least in the the cases I have seen that has been the case. I have the same mounts and installed them per the Moti. instructions using the proper rubber spacers and have no issues.

It is natural for aluminum to do that when the object it is coming in contact with is a much harder material (the strut shaft).

I think Mike was working with a few others on this issue so be sure and search this topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mike emailed me back and said the same thing. He told me the wrong rubber bushings were used, I bought this setup(AGX/GC coils) off a forum member last year. It kind of sucks that ME doesn't make the mounts anymore as Mike mentioned to me. Guessing it's harder to source the mounts, may have to go back to stock mounts for now in the rear.
 

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sr20jet said:
Mike emailed me back and said the same thing. He told me the wrong rubber bushings were used, I bought this setup(AGX/GC coils) off a forum member last year. It kind of sucks that ME doesn't make the mounts anymore as Mike mentioned to me. Guessing it's harder to source the mounts, may have to go back to stock mounts for now in the rear.
Actually you can still use those mounts with the right rubber spacers. It shouldn't be an issue....
 

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The Motivational rear mounting plate comes with its own washing and polyurethane bushings that you will need for the install. We decided, however, to forgo the polyurethane bushings and the metal washer and simply reuse the stock bushings and stock metal bumper cover. We believe that the stock bushings are better noise isolators than the polyurethane one and they provide better fit than the polyurethane bushings.
That quote is from NPM's hyperco/agx/moti rear mount write-up. Is this what caused sr20jet's problem above?

I just rec'd my shock mounts and hyperco's. I am awaiting agx's to install. I don't want to run into the same situation down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
wes said:
Actually you can still use those mounts with the right rubber spacers. It shouldn't be an issue....

Mike S emailed me back and told me that it wasn't safe to keeping using the mounts in that condition even with a changed bushing.

Then I had emailed Mike back and if I were to MIG weld the expanded area shut, would it be a safe viable option and he said yes. Since these mounts are no longer produced and getting harder to find, I'm gonna get the mount repaired and use new bumpstops that Mike recommended.

Swiss: You'll need Energy Suspension universal bumpstops part #9.8126 so you don't run into the same problem as I did.
 

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sr20jet said:
Mike S emailed me back and told me that it wasn't safe to keeping using the mounts in that condition even with a changed bushing.
Then I had emailed Mike back and if I were to MIG weld the expanded area shut, would it be a safe viable option and he said yes. Since these mounts are no longer produced and getting harder to find, I'm gonna get the mount repaired and use new bumpstops that Mike recommended.
Swiss: You'll need Energy Suspension universal bumpstops part #9.8126 so you don't run into the same problem as I did.
I got koni bumpstops with the mounts, but I didn't think this problem had anything to do with the bumpstops. Were you not using bumpstops? I don't understand. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
swiss said:
I got koni bumpstops with the mounts, but I didn't think this problem had anything to do with the bumpstops. Were you not using bumpstops? I don't understand. :confused:
Swiss, I was told by Mike that my setup was using the factory rubber bushings as shown in the pic. The new shock tower bumpstop Mike recommended fits on top of the 5/8 center hole on the mount.
The Koni ones you have are to be used on the shock shaft between the coilover plate(under the GC mount) and top sleeve of the coilover housing. As shown here:
 

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OK I understand now, the red urethane bushings. I already have those too. You called them "bumpstops" in one of the posts above and I got all confused ;) .

So one last time to clarify: According to Motivational, the red urethane bushings must be used. NPM's use of stock hardware in place of the red bushings is not advised.

Does that sound about right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
swiss said:
OK I understand now, the red urethane bushings. I already have those too. You called them "bumpstops" in one of the posts above and I got all confused ;) .
So one last time to clarify: According to Motivational, the red urethane bushings must be used. NPM's use of stock hardware in place of the red bushings is not advised.
Does that sound about right?
Sorry for the confusion Swiss. I was confused myself when Mike from Motivational said bumpstops too. So I had to look for the part number on the Energy Suspension site and was also mentioned as a shock tower bumpstop. Where you see the rubber bushing in my picture is where the new ES shock tower bumpstop will be used in place.

I could of probably fabbed a half hockey puck as a mount like what I used to do with my VW's.
 

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I had the same issue you're having. I ended up placing a bunch of washers on top of the large stock washer, which sits on top of the stock rubber bushing. I wrenched the top nut down until the rubber one was compressed down pretty far. I know it's not ideal by any means, but it was very solid, and all the clunking was gone. Cheaper, but not best in the long run.
 
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