SR20 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Turbo Grocery Getter
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Have any of you with experience with the sr16ve determined whether the valvetrain differs from the sr20ve head? The reason i ask, with the price of sr16ve motors being so cheap, it almost makes sense to just swap the head from a sr16 rather than install the sr16 cams. Particularly if the valvetrain is better for the higher revving sr16. Plus, afterwards, you could put the sr20 head on the sr16 block and maybe have a decent little motor to install in a turbo beater experiment or something to see how the thing handles boost. I know this was discussed somewhat a while back but i dont remember a definitive answer and i couldnt find the thread. thanks

nathan
 

·
VE junkie
Joined
·
907 Posts
no there was never a definite answer. but sr16ve motors arent cheap. i dont know where you saw that. plus you would really want n1 cams or 20V cams. those seem lke the best swaps for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
211 Posts
heads are the same 20/ve an 16/ve ,,,springs look the same but may have diffrenet open an close pressure. only checked the 16 ve springs( 65lbs closed 160lbs open) sr16ve rods are weak, low boost maybe? i have seen sr16ve cams for sale for $400.00 or 20v have a stronger power in the middle rpm`s
 

·
Turbo Grocery Getter
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Here's the thing,

I can get sr16 cams for $450 or i can get a full motor for $900 (allegedly) from my friend that has an importing shop here in hawaii. That is why i was asking.

As far as the other cams go, from what i understand the 20V cams require a bit more modification than the sr16 which are just drop in. Plus, from the dyno charts i have seen the sr16 cams seem to stack up pretty well with the 20V. As far as N1 cams go, I imagine they are very hard to find and expensive. My friend cant even find an N1 motor let alone cams. I should look at the 20V dyno agian. maybe i missed something. Thanks for the info guys. anyone else have thoughts?

nathan
 

·
VE junkie
Joined
·
907 Posts
thats odd about the 900 dollar VE i dont know if id trust that. considering i was quoted 1100 for sr16 cams and springs/ratainers by a respectable tuner. i mean thats...more than a whole motor.
 

·
seen the light
Joined
·
374 Posts
BORNGEARHEAD said:
Why can't we find someone with a hookup at a foreign Nissan dealer and purchase the N1 cams brand new?
Want me to ask a friend who works for Nissan here in New Zealand?I hadn't thought of it until you asked!
 

·
WASHED UP
Joined
·
2,440 Posts
92nx2k said:
thats odd about the 900 dollar VE i dont know if id trust that. considering i was quoted 1100 for sr16 cams and springs/ratainers by a respectable tuner. i mean thats...more than a whole motor.
Sr16ve go for 800 buy it nothing is wrong with the motor for that price .Just people sells the cams for 4-5 bills and mad a killing. i got my 2.0 ve for 1300.As for 20v cams.It bolts right in i installed them and running them in my car now NO mods needed so whoevertold you they need mods thats false..Its bolt on .20ve will have more power overall than sr16ve cams FYIF.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,405 Posts
92nx2k said:
thats odd about the 900 dollar VE i dont know if id trust that. considering i was quoted 1100 for sr16 cams and springs/ratainers by a respectable tuner. i mean thats...more than a whole motor.
That must have been for the N1 cams. Normal sr16ve cams don't need new valve springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
back to the original question...the 20ve and 16ve have the exact same head and valve springs. the 20v has a different head design. maybe you guys dont understand what it takes and who you have to know o get the N1 cams. when you bought an N1 you got a plaque that said you are N1 owner number: 152. for some parts like the cams you dont have proof of owning the actual car the dont like to sell it to you. and the japs are not like us here they have too much integrity so its hard to find some guy who will just put it through for an extra 50 bucks cash we can here.
 

·
Just LTrain Again..
Joined
·
1,147 Posts
I don't know how it actually works in Japan for parts. I did hear that you have to have some sort of proof of ownership to get model specific OEM parts in Japan. Whether it be a VIN or serial number or whatever. But what I can def attest to is that the average Japanese mindset is not into being shady. They are very straight shooters for the most part and follow rules and the status quo to the tee. So once you are lucky enough to find the part numbers and credentials you still gotta smooth talk somebody in Japan into doing something that they think is shady.

-Linus

bigtom said:
back to the original question...the 20ve and 16ve have the exact same head and valve springs. the 20v has a different head design. maybe you guys dont understand what it takes and who you have to know o get the N1 cams. when you bought an N1 you got a plaque that said you are N1 owner number: 152. for some parts like the cams you dont have proof of owning the actual car the dont like to sell it to you. and the japs are not like us here they have too much integrity so its hard to find some guy who will just put it through for an extra 50 bucks cash we can here.
 

·
Jah Rastafari
Joined
·
7,677 Posts
92nx2k said:
thats odd about the 900 dollar VE i dont know if id trust that. considering i was quoted 1100 for sr16 cams and springs/ratainers by a respectable tuner. i mean thats...more than a whole motor.
SR16VE 200 HP N1 cams with springs and retainers are $1100-$1200

SR16VE 175 HP cams are $450

Please do not confuse them.

I can get a SR16VE 175 HP Blue Valve cover motor shipped for about $1100-$1200

SR16VE 200 HP N1 Red Valve Cover motor is imposible to get and pricing would be in the $2500-$3000 range.
 

·
seen the light
Joined
·
374 Posts
I can get both N1 cams and 20V cams(minus springs & retainers) for $1322.26NZD
Thats about $850.00USD + springs&retainers and shipping...
Brand spanking new :D
 

·
Turbo Grocery Getter
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
good news

Thanks bigtom,

So there is no real advantage to swapping the head over just a cam swap due to valvetrain differences. SO I would assume that means that the sr20ve should have no trouble revving to 8K once i get my VE computer (eventually) since the sr16 is designed to make peak power at 7800 and has an identical head design. Good news then.

nathan

PS Madandy, if that is true then i will be in touch. Shipping to hawaii shouldnt be to bad from NZ right?
 

·
Jah Rastafari
Joined
·
7,677 Posts
sr20sleeper said:
Thanks bigtom,

So there is no real advantage to swapping the head over just a cam swap due to valvetrain differences. SO I would assume that means that the sr20ve should have no trouble revving to 8K once i get my VE computer (eventually) since the sr16 is designed to make peak power at 7800 and has an identical head design. Good news then.

nathan

PS Madandy, if that is true then i will be in touch. Shipping to hawaii shouldnt be to bad from NZ right?
Stock 190 hp SR20VE cams will float the valves before 175 hp SR16VE cams.

Also 204 hp 20V cams are harder on the valve train than the N1 200 HP SR16VE cams.

The reasons for this, is that the both SR16VE cams have more duration in relation to lift and they open and close the valves more smothly. I would run better than stock valve springs on any 190 HP SR20VE with N1 or 20V cams.
 

·
Turbo Grocery Getter
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
cams

Thanks andreas,

so... duration = length of time the valve is open?
lift = degree to which the valve is open?
And a large lift will cause the valve to float because of the impulse upward where long duration simply holds it open longer at a safe degree of lift. Is that correct?

So maybe for now I will just look at sr16 cams. They are relatively cheap and I like the power curve and the fact that i dont have to change that much internally. I have driven steves car a few times and thought it was very smooth with those cams. thanks again,

nathan
 

·
VE junkie
Joined
·
907 Posts
so whats the overall better swap for power, assuming you have to replace springs and retainers. the N1 or the 20V??
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top