[kris]

I would say first of all, since you bought a new battery, pull the alternator and have it tested at a prarts store, that might be the problem.

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Kris94G20

 

[dart64]

Yeah, I was thinking it may be the alternator, but if that was it, wouldn't the car shut off after driving for awhile?
If it is the alternator, do you know how much it will cost to fix, including labor? I don't know how to fix much on my car.

 

[dart64]

Can anyone please give me some advise?
About 3 weeks ago I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. The clock wasn't on and no lights worked, so Ifigured it was the battery since the battery looked pretty old and I bought the car used, and well, I don't really know the history of the car, so how could a new battery hurt?
So, I bought a new battery and it worked fine; started no problem. I thought the problem was fixed.
Well, yesterday I went to start the car and it didn't start. Again, the clock didn't work and no lights went on, so my battery is dead. I know I didn't leave any lights on, so I didn't drain the battery myself. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I need to drive to NJ in 3 days, so I need to fix this quickly.
I should also note that I leave my car parked without starting it, somettimes two weeks at a time. However, my older Sentra always started, even if I didn't start in for 3 weeks in New Engalnd weather.
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
Daniel

 

[kris]

Yeah, I think it would shut down after driving it a bit. As far as labor goes. I would just go get like a chiltons guide and do it yourself. It would save you lots of $$. Its not all that hard. A parts store might even be able to test it in your car.

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Kris94G20

 

[brian]

there is a tool that you hook up to your electrical system (through your battery) and you can manually put a load (no smart ass remarks please

) onto your electrical system, more than a radio, a/c, heater, whatever could do, and you can find out that way. a shop can do it for you and probably only charge you like 1/2 hour in labor or so. probably 25-30 bux and 15-20 min.

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98 se-r w/ p/r cai, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning

 

[Guest]

Given the inaccessible location of the alternator, I would test the alternator in place. Charge the battery, start the engine andn switch on everything (lights, heater, heated rear window, wipers, etc.). This will put a "load" on the system. Now put a multimeter across the battery terminals. If you get a reading of around 13 volts, then the alternator is charging OK.

If the alternator is charging OK, this is where the fun begins. It could be something as simple as a trunk light that doesn't go off with the lid closed, draining the battery over the course of 2 weeks inactivity. Good luck!

 

[redman007]

ya test alt. then if it's ok go to an automotive electrical guy.someone that checks for shorts. .I had several shorts about 3 or 4. he found them fixed them and now I can turn the car on after several days no prob. then 3 months later the alt. went so I fixed it with a rebuilt joint.

 

[dart64]

Ok, time for an update.
I jumped the car yesterady, which took a long time because the battery was really drained.
After the car started, I let it sit and run for 20 minutes because I read somewhere in the post that this is how to charge the battery/alternator.
After charging, I drove the car around for about 15 minutes and then brought it to Autozone. The guy checked my battery and said it had had about 12 volts, which is a little low but since it was cold outside, it's normal. He then checked my alternator by disconecting the battery terminals while the car was running, and thankfully, the car still ran, so it's not my alternator.
I think this is what happened. When I bought the new battery 3 weeks ago, I probably didn't charge the alternator long enough, causing the car to die out agin. I think I read this somewhere else in the posts where someone was jumped but then the car died fifteen minutes down the road because he didn't charge the alternator long enough. Does this sound correct?
I'm going to start the car again today just to make sure it starts again.
Thanks everyone,
Daniel

 

[Mike]

Your battery charges while you drive. So you theroy is not what the problem is. I'm thinking you have a short somewhere like Red said.

Mike

 

[dart64]

ARRGGG!
Ok, I just went to start the car and it was dead again!!!
This is pissing me off. I called my unlce and he asked me if I had a regualtor in the car. What the hell is a regulator?
He said it could be this regualtor or I could have a short, like mentioned in the previous post.
So, I guees my next question is, how hard is it to find a short, and once it is found, how expensive to fix?
Will Autozone be able to find the short with their little machines they roll out to the car? Or do I have to spend money and bring it to a shop to find the short?

Oh, and to top it all off, it's pouring in Boston and my car is sitting in water that comes up to the middle of the rims.
What a sh**ty day.

 

[dart64]

One more thing.
If I do have a short, will I be able to drive the car from Boston to NJ without fixing the short?
I do not have a lot of money now, and since my car will not be in use for about a month when I get to NJ, I would rather fix it later.
Poor and unhappy,
Daniel

 

[Guest]

umm..wear warm clothes.

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1993 NX2000
with stuff.

 

[dart64]

So I took the car to cambridge Nissan today and did a diagnostic check.
They found that I have a short in my dome light circuit. He doesn't know if it's a wire or what (said they needed more time to figure out), but he said I could just take the dome light fuse out and then my battery wouldn't drain. So, now I don't have a dome light or clock, but that's ok, I can live without either.