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Go Go Speedricer GO
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well about 3 days ago i was driving around for about 3 or 4 hours stright with a friend and about by the end of the day b4 we stopped my check engine light came on. I figured it might just got off (becuz i remember one day i drove to another state and back, and it came on, but after i let the car rest it went off). But it's been about 3 days and it still hasnt gone off......anyone got suggestions on what it could be?
 

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Coropate greed hater
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There can be thousands of reasons. The best thing for your to do is go to Autozone and have them check the codes stored in the ECU and clear it after seeing what those codes are. What car do you have?
 

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Go Go Speedricer GO
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776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my fault i got a b14, 98 200sx se to be exact, i mean it usually just goes off, (like it did b4, drove 68 miles out to ohio then 68 back, light went on, turned car off to let it rest and the light never came back on) i figured it would do that again but it has been 3 days and is still on
 

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Coropate greed hater
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4,044 Posts
Its best for you to go to Autozone, like I said before, and see what codes show up on the ECU. Come back with whatever information you get and we'll try to help you as much as we can.
 

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Coropate greed hater
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Its free. Tell them you have your check engine light on and would like to see why it came on.
 

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Coropate greed hater
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Someone's playing like a record.
 

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Go Go Speedricer GO
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776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea that was my fault, i didnt know it posted, but i edited the post.....think just takin off the negitive on the battery would do the trick? I mean since it is free, i'll just ask autozone whats up.....no problem
 

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check up on the most common problems found with the 200sx... i get the same problem and for my year i read up that its due to the o2 sensor *95ser* so go search around and you will find some site probly telling about the most common found problems with each year of the se-r
 

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Go Go Speedricer GO
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776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
might be the o2 sensor considering i put on a cone filter, if it is, how do you got about fixing it and it isnt anything to worry about is it? (considering everything is workin as it should)

oh also i have an exhaust question. My exhaust right now is stock, i was lookin to get a nice loud (but not honda nasty) sound, i was gunna use stock cat, stock resignator, and get 2.5 piping all the way back to an APC (for now) muffler....i was gunna get that ss 2.5 piping from that group buy thats going on, would that be all i would really need? just the piping? Cuz it is a 1.6L so i'm in no need for a new cat and resignator cuz it isnt really for performance (yet cuz i'll evenually do the SR20DET swap) but i just want nice sound for right now, so would the piping be fine and everything else stock?

OH ALSO, anyone got a tut or something that shows how to put coilovers on a b14, i wana make sure i do it exactly correct
 

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Go Go Speedricer GO
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776 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yo, tryin to get someones opinon on what i should do with exhaust, would gettin 2.5 stainless steel piping be good enough for now for good song (would also have like an APC muffler), i shouldnt need a new cat or resignator right? I was just tryin to get an opinon b4 March 15th cuz thats when that group buy 4 that piping is over...
 

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OK since you are looking for an opinion i will tell you my opinion
...

2.5" piping is too big for the stock N/A GA16DE engine. N/A means
Naturally Aspirated, which means the engine has no forced induction. In
other words no turbo or supercharger. You should also realize that if
you really plan on replacing the GA16DE engine with an SR20DET engine
than you will be wasting money by purchasing any exhaust components
right now. But if you want to modify the exhaust now at least do it
right...

For the stock to moderately-modified GA16DE engine don't go any higher
than 2" exhaust piping, keep the cat-converter, make sure a resonator
is installed, and don't buy an APC muffler. The amount of exhast gas flow that is
restricted on this size engine is so small that there is virtually no
power loss with a cat-converter. Removing cat-converters is really
only necessary on muscle cars (large displacement sports cars). And a resonator
is necessary to keep the noise level down and to keep your car from sounding like
****. Scalloped or baffled resonators create some backpressure, so get one
that is fiberglass-packed. And please don't buy an APC muffler. APC is
**** - enough said. In summary, get a stainless cat-back system with 2"
piping.

And oh yeah - save yourself the embarrasment and don't get a coffee can
size exhaust tip. Hope this helps.
 
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