[Guest]

Well, I made some homemade motor mounts by pouring liquid polyurethane into my motor mounts. I did the front, back and right motor mounts, but not the left one.

The mounts allow for a little bit more vibration at idle and really hold the engine in place. the car doesn't jerk around like it used too.

Now for the problems:

The car doesn't shift smoothly anymore. After about 15 minuets of agressive driving, the shifter got really sticky and I kept missing shifts. Going back into my garage, I could barely get the car into reverse. It made a lot of ugly sounds doing so.

Also, there is a really really loud resonance from about 4k-6k. From 1-3k and 6-7.5, it is normal. But that booming sound from 4-6 is driving me insane. I don't mind the vibrations and noise at idle, but is this loud resonance normal?


So, any ideas what I did wrong? Do you think only doing 3 out of 4 mounts did something?

 

[91SE-R]

you should have only did the torqe positions aka front and rear mount doing the side is allowing more vibration to transfer through the frame of the car

 

[Guest]

Really? I didn't realize that. I had read the rear mount causes the most vibration.

Do you think that is the cause of the resonance from 4-6k? That is really driving me crazy.

Anyone have any ideas about the shifting? Do you think the tranny didn't get lined up properly somehow?

 

[Chris Bryant]

The booming is a characteristic of 4 cylinder engines - it is a resonance brought on by the harmonics of the engine in the rpm band you describe. The OE motor mounts keep the unpleasantness in your engine - stiffer mounts allow your entire chassis to resonate along with the motor.

SCC also recommends the "Torque mount" set, which is what I plan to install. They tried the full set, and couldn't stand the resonance either.

CB

 

[jacen99SE]

You can get some booming with the inserts in the rear insulator. Just doing the inserts in the dogbone is pretty quite, but allows to much movement for my taste.
I plan on reducing the thickness of the rear inserts (belt sander) to make them less noisy. There will be a trade off with noise and motion control, but I think I can get a good balance of both.

 

[jayac]

I just bought all four mounts for my car from Courtesy. While I was on the phone, I asked the guy about the so called "torque" set, but none actually exists. You have to buy both sets (two mounts per set), and just use the ones you plan on using.

 

[brian]

you don't have to order both sets. who did you talk to? the torque mounts are the 7-1105G and the transmission and the front mount is the 7-1106G

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98 se-r w/ p/r cai,jwt s3 cams, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, ur pullies, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning

 

[Guest]

Well, things feel a little better today. It is shifting smoothly now, I don't know why.

I love the performance aspect of the mounts though. The car feels awesome. If I keep the car betweeb 5-7.5k I don't have the noise problems

I'm thinking I will attempt to return the right side mount to stock. Should have gotten the inserts, I don't see how I will get the polyurethane out. At least that is the cheapest mount to purchase.

 

[jayac]

>>you don't have to order both sets. who did you talk to?<<

I see what your saying. I think it was Larry I talked to. Im not going to point a finger at him, I think there was just a miss-under standing. Anyways, I'll just return it and get the stock mounts for the left and right side.