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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the whole motor stripped down. I want to degreese it, should I punch out all the freeze plugs (core plugs) or can I leave them in and still expect a good cleaning result? I tried removing the oil plug at the water pump end of the motor but it was so tight that I had to drill it out completely. Seeing that I am not gong to take out the other oil plug at the tranny side of the motor.

Its a Bluebird block...
 

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The Boost Bear..Rawr!
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Take it to a local machine shop (if there is one local) and have them "vatt" it. It's like a acid steam mixture, and cleans up great. They may charge a few bucks, but cheaper than a bottle or two of Simple Green or Engine Degreaser I would imagine.

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
would "vatt" entail removing the core plugs as well?
 

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The Boost Bear..Rawr!
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You could remove the "freeze" plugs if you wanted to. You don't have to, but if you'd like. But if you're going to get it bored or honed or anything, they will "vatt" it before and after ANY machine work they do.

Corey
 

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Vatting the engine will clean it, but will not get the corrosion off. Before you take it to the machine shop, you should take some steel wool and go at it. This will get all the corrosion off and make the block look new again.
 

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Dead thread revival time,
I have an eGT engine that I will be doing some work on shortly, so my questions are:
How many freeze plugs are there in the head and block?
How easy are spares to source??
Are the spares cheap?

Mike
 

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oh so LAZY
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UK-SRi said:
Dead thread revival time,
I have an eGT engine that I will be doing some work on shortly, so my questions are:
How many freeze plugs are there in the head and block?
How easy are spares to source??
Are the spares cheap?

Mike
I feel like I missed something, WTF is a freeze plug anyway?
 

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Well in order to hold the greensand cores in place for the hollow bits of a casting they have to bridge the aluminium part, this later gets small inserts to close them off.

Mike
 

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price of the freeze plugs are less than a dollar each here in the states.
 

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Will said:
I feel like I missed something, WTF is a freeze plug anyway?

Those bad boys you see usually under the intake and exhaust ports and as well as other locations. I beleive there are a few on certain types of sr20s on the head above the pulleys.
 

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ive never had to remove the freeze plugs when sending the block out to get any machine work done, nor to get it cleaned either. If they dont need to be pulled, why pull them? Its not like this is an iron block that can rust.
 

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oh so LAZY
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UK-SRi said:
Well in order to hold the greensand cores in place for the hollow bits of a casting they have to bridge the aluminium part, this later gets small inserts to close them off.

Mike
La_Noche said:

Those bad boys you see usually under the intake and exhaust ports and as well as other locations. I beleive there are a few on certain types of sr20s on the head above the pulleys.

Thanks guys, I always wondered what the purpose of those little bastards was, figured it was casting.
 

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revival time...

Does anyone have the sizes required to replace the core/freeze plugs?? I think I have found a place in the UK near me where I can buy some, if they charge too much I will have to buy a set from the states.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If they aint leaking dont touch them
 

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easy 400WHP
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I pulled them and replaced them on the motor that I fully built. And I pull and replace them on blocks that are very old/corroded.
They are very cheap at the parts store. Funny someone said that this isnt an Iron block and things wont rust, but Aluminum does corrode. The plugs the factory uses are steel and cadmium plated, so there alone you have 3 dissimilar metals. The plugs do corrode. Especially on the inside. If you are fully dissasembling the engine and cleaning it, I say you replace them. Theyre kinda tricky to take out, but not anything impossible. Punch them in w/ a socket of equivalent size, spin them 90* and pull on them w/ pliers (not like youll be reusing them). Install is very easy. Put some gasket sealer around the edges and punch in w/ the smae socket until surfaces are flush and youre done. I think the plug size is 13/16" or 7/8" or some ****-don't quote me. I have a box at home...

Same with the oil galley plugs. They normally need to be drilled out cause theyre installed w/ RTV on the threads. I pull those and replace them and flush out the oil galleys, Especially (ITS A MUST) after ANY machine work is done or if its an old engine...think about it- theres years and years of oil sludge in there. Leaving those plugs on during the cleaning process will not give you the best results possible. Theyre cheap as well. Just a PITA but a torch and or a LH drill bit is your friend!
 

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Canyon_Boogie
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I started a thread similar to this. Made my block into a coffee table so I needed it squeeky clean. Its here somewhere HINT HINT
 

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easy 400WHP
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why dont you look it up and link it here for us...asshole :D

Howd that coffee table turn out? I thought of doing that with a block I have that has a MASSIVE hole blown out of # 3. Itd be a good conversation piece...
 

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Drivin the "Egg Crate"
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The primary purpose of the freeze plug is to protect the block in the event of sub-zero temperatures combined with insufficient anti-freeze in the coolant mix. Water expands as it freezes, and the expanding water/ice needs somewhere to go, so the theory is the freeze plugs burst before the block is cracked open.

It appears the SR20 is fitted with a combination of freeze plugs (for burst protection) and casting, or core plugs, which held the sand castings for internal parts of the block when it was originally formed.

Having the freeze plugs removed will certainly allow for removal of casting imperfections, as well as checking for core shift; up to you in terms of judging if there may have been enough corrosion to warrant removal and replacement.

Cheers!

Darrin
 
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