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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I finally got my det running but it doesn't want to idle and runs kinda rough. I found a vacuum leak and that helped it somewhat. It seems to run alright when I give it throttle but not when I back off. Also, the cooling fans didn't some on although it ran for about 10 minutes straight. The hoses became pretty hot and the temp gauge indicated about a little less then half (basicly like normal position).

The only two things that I know of that may be a part of this is I don't have the bov hooked back into the intake yet and it was leaking at idle, and I was using the de ecu.

Are there any other common reasons that would cause similar symptoms?

Thanks,
Matt Ostlund,
93NX
91SE-R DET finally running
 

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The BOV is more than likely the problem....
also, make sure you're running a DE temperature sensor and sender, to test the fans either turn the A/C on or just pull the sensor (red plug). The fans come on around 180 deg or so so it will get pretty hot before they turn on. BTW, if you havent changed the temp sender (single prong) then the temp guage won't read correctly. Hope that helps....

Andy

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93 NX2K
some stuff and a DET
"project street mod?"
1988 BMW M3 w/ a few toys
 

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Not on fire... yet
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I just noticed you said you were running the DE ecu... do you have a JWT ecu on its way or are you gonna use an AFC or something?? the DET injectors are bigger (370 vs. 260) since the ECu has no clue it will be running really rich and it might cause some other issues I only ran my DET on the DE ecu to move the car around and get it running....
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I have a JWT ecu, I just didn't put it in yet. I was excited to start the car
I changed the temp gauge sender to the DE one. I can't remember if I switched the sensor or not. Are they different between the de and det? I tried the AC trick to start the fans but it didn't work. Could it be because I removed the AC system?

Did you notice a difference between the JWT and DE ecu when idleing and low rpm (I havnt given it much throttle)?

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Hey Matt get that thing running right and bring it on over here for the 3rd!

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MarC
93 NX2000
JWT POP charger
15.5 1/4 mile
 

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Scary monkey windmill
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I have a JWT ecu, I just didn't put it in yet.</font>
Well wouldn't that be a big part of your problem? Your ECU has no idea you're running bigger injectors! You're probably running rich as hell. Swap your ECU out with the JWT one pronto!

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I changed the temp gauge sender to the DE one. I can't remember if I switched the sensor or not. Are they different between the de and det?</font>
I know the sender is, I don't know about the sensor. If your gauge was about where it was supposed to be, I suspenct it's working right. We found out on my NX that the senders were different becuase with the stock DET sender my temp gauge always read very hot, almost in the red all the time, even though the engine temp was actually fine, verified by a Consult.
 

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El Chingon
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Fans come on at 212 degrees.

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David De Anda
Turbo Sentra SE
HTA Drag Squad
 

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Ironman
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Zak91SER:
I know the sender is, I don't know about the sensor. </font>
Sensor, sender, sending unit.... all the same thing.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Zak91SER:
If your gauge was about where it was supposed to be, I suspenct it's working right.</font>
Nope. I tested this pretty extensively. I swapped my ECU sending unit (same between DET and DE) and didn't swap the gauge sending unit (duh). The sweet spot of the DET sending unit's range appears to be the same as the sweet spot of the DE sending unit. I would run at "normal" temp most of the time, but it would creep up. I swapped in a larger radiator and now on the freeway it shows cold, sometimes pegged at the bottom of the gauge. It appears to me (not totally scientific) that the DET sending unit sends a broader range of signal, so off the sweet spot it seems to go way hot or way cold very easily.
 

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I switched the ECU's and it didn't run any differently. I found a bag of parts that the guy included when I bought the engine from him and a red temp sensor was in there. I decided to let the car run for a while and the fans did kick on so I know thats good. I pulled the codes from the ecu and it spit out 12 which is MAF. I tested the maf and didn't find any problems. When I was switching the maf for the one on the NX I noticed the reground and I realized I hadn't done that yet. Bingo! runs much better. Then I covered up the bov so it wasn't dumping into the air and it runs perfect!

But:

I went to take it for a test drive and couldn't get it into gear :( I figure I'd adjust the clutch and go. Well I adjusted it to no avail and then I used a 1/4" socket to shim it and even that wasn't enough. I guess there is a problem inside thats causing the clutch to not disengage. This is a new clutch setup, not from the old engine. Its an act xtreme pp, street disc, fidanza flywheel, and new t/o bearing. Is there any opinion as to why this is happening? I don't remember anything being out of the ordinary when I installed the stuff, but.

My guesses:

overtightened pp bolts
t/o bearing on backwards
defective pp

Thanks for the help,
Matt Ostlund
93NX
91SE-R DET
 
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