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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a t3t4 sr20de with weisco/eagle, JWT ECU, 50lb-3bar, JWT fuel rail, 300zxMAF and fuel pump. Finally broke my engine in and was playing with the boost (I normally run with the EBC turned off, so about 7psi), and I noticed that around 10-12 psi I can hear what I think is detonation. The car pulls strong at 10psi, with no hesitation or hickups, but I hear like marbles in a tin can, or somesort of rattling sound. I run 93 octane and I checked my FPR, which is at 44psi with the vacuum tube conected at idle. Maybe I'm asking too much from the car? I plan on dynoing this weekend, so I hope to get some answers there, but I thought I'd post here to see what anyone thought?
 

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sleeper
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marbles in a tin can is exactly what detonation sounds like on our motors. leave the boost turned down. The fuel pressure should be set with the vacuum line DISCONNECTED. That fuel setup should be able to handle that boost with absolutely no probs. Where do you have your timing set? Might want to try reseting the ecu and tps memory. Good luck!

Oh yeah, get the A/F while you dyno. Should be around roughly 11.5-12.0
 

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Hey.. Glad to see you got your car running.. What FPR are you running?
Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ya, the car is finally running, and it runs great at 7psi. Good idle, good gas millage and a hell of a push after 4k rpms.

I'm running the Aeromotive FPR, and I did set it with the vacuum line disconected (read the procedure here or maybe on se-r.net). Currently hooked up - it reads 36psi at idle and about 42-44 when i give it a little gas.

I'll try to reset the TPS (it's at .48-4.12) and ECU. Thanks for reminding me about the timing, a listmemeber and I set it at 15, but it was late at night and I don't think we got it to go into timing mode, since it was jumping around a bit when we were trying to set it. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try em out and see if they work.
 

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if its jumping, then it wasnt in timing lock, and you have will no idea what your timing is actually set at.
 

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SHIFT_psssssssttttt
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i guess you put new piston and rods? what is your compression ratio at?
 

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webninja said:
Ya, the car is finally running, and it runs great at 7psi. Good idle, good gas millage and a hell of a push after 4k rpms.

I'm running the Aeromotive FPR, and I did set it with the vacuum line disconected (read the procedure here or maybe on se-r.net). Currently hooked up - it reads 36psi at idle and about 42-44 when i give it a little gas.

I'll try to reset the TPS (it's at .48-4.12) and ECU. Thanks for reminding me about the timing, a listmemeber and I set it at 15, but it was late at night and I don't think we got it to go into timing mode, since it was jumping around a bit when we were trying to set it. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try em out and see if they work.
I've seen people have crazy problems with the Aeromotive regulators. Try this.. Get an air compressor.. and set the regulator down to like 10-15psi. Start the car and let it idle. Take the vacuum line off of the source on the manifold. Put the end of the line on your air-chuck. Squeeze the trigger and watch the guage. Make sure it goes up in pressure when you apply air pressure. It will probably make the car stall.. but at least you know that the regulator is working correctly. I've had 2 Aeromotive units go bad on me..
Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok I checked the FPR per travis' instructions and it works. I checked the timing (after getting it into timing mode per se-r.net instructions). Here's my issue - I bought the car with the UR pulleys on the car so I have no idea what generation the pulleys are. I've read that the timing marks on all the UR pulley are

-5 0 5 10 15 20

except for the very first UR pulleys start at 0. So is it safe to say that the first UR pulleys only have 5 timing marks?

0 5 10 15 20

I just want to be sure when I set my timing to 15, I can just set it to the 2nd to last mark to the right correct?

thanks for all the help so far :)
 

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webninja said:
ok I checked the FPR per travis' instructions and it works. I checked the timing (after getting it into timing mode per se-r.net instructions). Here's my issue - I bought the car with the UR pulleys on the car so I have no idea what generation the pulleys are. I've read that the timing marks on all the UR pulley are

-5 0 5 10 15 20

except for the very first UR pulleys start at 0. So is it safe to say that the first UR pulleys only have 5 timing marks?

0 5 10 15 20

I just want to be sure when I set my timing to 15, I can just set it to the 2nd to last mark to the right correct?

thanks for all the help so far :)
Hmmm, there was a set of UR pulleys that went out marked wrong. The only way to tell is to take it off and put it against a stock pulley. You need to see if you got a bad one.
 

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webninja said:
ok I checked the FPR per travis' instructions and it works. I checked the timing (after getting it into timing mode per se-r.net instructions). Here's my issue - I bought the car with the UR pulleys on the car so I have no idea what generation the pulleys are. I've read that the timing marks on all the UR pulley are

-5 0 5 10 15 20

except for the very first UR pulleys start at 0. So is it safe to say that the first UR pulleys only have 5 timing marks?

0 5 10 15 20

I just want to be sure when I set my timing to 15, I can just set it to the 2nd to last mark to the right correct?

thanks for all the help so far :)
Wrong timing settings caused me a new head rebuild. I have the unorthodox also and I was using the -5 0 5 10 15 20 settings. When the work was done we did a TDC on the motor and found out the timing marks actually start at 0 5 10 15 20. So in other words since I advanced my timing to 17 degrees I was actually running 22 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well that's what I'm worried about, messing up the timing, and I have a feeling it's already messed up since I can't boost more than 9psi. My question is that since no matter what marks you have on your pully the 2nd to last one is always 15, correct? I was also wondering if I went to a nissan dealer and had my timing set via the consult would that be exact?
 

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The consult won't help set it properly. No matter where your distributor actually is, the ECU will think it's at 15°

IIRC the incorrectly marked UR pullies were the first gen ones that were solid (had no holes drilled in the crank pulley) Is yours drilled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
that's a great idea, i didn't even think to ask how to differentiate between the pullys. I'll have to go look to see if mine are drilled.

Thanks!!
 

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dang, dunno how i missed this thread. glad to see you got your car up and running again (kinda) bro. It will be nice to see that monster on the dyno :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
FastNX said:
The consult won't help set it properly. No matter where your distributor actually is, the ECU will think it's at 15°

IIRC the incorrectly marked UR pullies were the first gen ones that were solid (had no holes drilled in the crank pulley) Is yours drilled?

Thanks again for the info, I just checked and my crank pulley is drilled, so my timing marks are -5 0 5 10 15 20, now I need to head to the garage to adjust my timing. Hopefully that will solve the boost problem.
 

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webninja said:
Thanks again for the info, I just checked and my crank pulley is drilled, so my timing marks are -5 0 5 10 15 20, now I need to head to the garage to adjust my timing. Hopefully that will solve the boost problem.
Just to be sure you should also do a TDC on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know this is an older thread, but I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I was able to do the timing on my car last week and I really took it step by step. Sure enough once I got it into timing mode, the timing was near 20, redid the timing to 15 and the car now boosts easily at 10psi, 11psi, 12psi (which is as far as I'll go until I hit the dyno).
Now I need to figure out how to get rid of the new part throttle hesitation around 3k, which seems to have reappeared after I did my timing. That 3k hesitation seems to be common on the sr20 cars. I'll try switching back to the 6 series plugs (have the 7s in there now).
 

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webninja said:
I know this is an older thread, but I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I was able to do the timing on my car last week and I really took it step by step. Sure enough once I got it into timing mode, the timing was near 20, redid the timing to 15 and the car now boosts easily at 10psi, 11psi, 12psi (which is as far as I'll go until I hit the dyno).
Now I need to figure out how to get rid of the new part throttle hesitation around 3k, which seems to have reappeared after I did my timing. That 3k hesitation seems to be common on the sr20 cars. I'll try switching back to the 6 series plugs (have the 7s in there now).
I think I pioeneered the part throttle hesistation. I'm surprised it's not called the Hass curse. LOL I went through a lot of trial and error to get rid of it and never fully did.

What ignition are you running? (Coil, ign box etc)
 
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