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Rebuilding the W11:P
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You can cut out all the rubber. In the middle of the mount is a piece of metal that holds the bolt locator in place. I had this question on my 95 SE-R and just went for it. Careful though, there's a little water inside. The only piece I had to line up was in the dogbone mount.
 

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<>< Jesus is the Answer
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your creating too much work for yourself IMO...the prothanes are going to be just as soild yet it is machined so you have the peace of mind that something wont go wrong and crack, pop out, fall out, etc. can you really complain over 45 bucks?
 

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utahnissans.com
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5,051 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
se-riusb14 said:
You can cut out all the rubber. In the middle of the mount is a piece of metal that holds the bolt locator in place. I had this question on my 95 SE-R and just went for it. Careful though, there's a little water inside. The only piece I had to line up was in the dogbone mount.
So you are saying there is a bar running horizontaly (where the blue marks are) that holts the bolt hole in place right?

I only had the blue marker there in case I was to cut it all out and there was nothing holding the bolt in place I could line it back up when I poured the urethane. :D
 

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Go for it and let us know.

I used 3 passenger side solid inserts on my 3 motor mounts.
It takes a little modification but it worked.
 

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AWD owns me
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i have seen the 80 rubber stuff used in mms and it was hard enough. But it did work. Personaly I am buying all 4 prothanes for 42 bucks, just as much as the rubber epoxy.
 

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utahnissans.com
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Urethane was $20,From what I know it is the same material as the Prothanes. I wanted to try this and see how well it works.

I started this thread to get the advice/opinons on guys that have done the DIY mounts, not guys who think the Prothane mounts are a better way to go. :tongue:
 

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P10 Geek
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1,565 Posts
I used the 3M window weld on my front dog-bone last year and it is still holding up quite well. The P10 dog-bone front torque mount is quite different than the B13, but it worked very well. Since I had so much left over ($11 a tube) I filled all my stock mounts as back-ups if I ever need them. I currently am running the PLace Racing mounts.
 

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Where did you buy the urethane? how much of the stuff does 20bucks buy?

When I did my passengerside and driver-side mounts, I just cut out the rubber. Like se-riusb14 said, the bolt hole is held in place by metal. I found that out trying to drill out the rubber with a drill press. It was a bitch digging out the rubber. A torch to just burn all that stuff out might be a better idea.


-patchy
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
To anybody that has done this I was wondering if you think it would be possible to just cut out all of the inside of this motor mount and fill it in with 94A Liquid urethane. Then i would just drill out a small hole where the existing stock location was and tap in a little metal ring to hold the bolt. Is this possible?

If not, can I just cut it all out besides a little part (to hold the stock ring) in place then fill it in with the urethane and that will be strong. I have never really been able to find an good answer.

________________________________________________________________

Prothane were not an option when I did this. On my B14 SE-R I did a lot of cutting and drilling. Actually a box cutter will slice that stuff like butter if you can work it right. I kept a bit of rubber to hold the stock pin centered, taped, poured... voila.

This is what I have on my B13. I got a bit lazy:

ES insert on tranny/driver side.
Stock replacement for pass liquid
Poured solid dog-bone, with shaved stock pins.
Poured back/firewall without cutting on a new stock unit.

It's great for the 3000 miles I pur with mild bolt-ons. Now the original stock clutch is shot (go figure at only 132k) I didn't like ES. I heard bad things about that 3M windo weld, but have no personal exp. I used 94a MCM CARR both times. It's overkill, but I like it a lot.
 

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Still not my president
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5,173 Posts
i cut mine open and filled with jb weld dont know how well it works cause it keeps snaping axles at teh end of the driveway
 

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Rebuilding the W11:P
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1,114 Posts
SR20RACER said:
So you are saying there is a bar running horizontaly (where the blue marks are) that holts the bolt hole in place right?
Yes, but I don't remember where in the mount exactly.
 

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Rebuilding the W11:P
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1,114 Posts
ApacheXMD said:
Where did you buy the urethane? how much of the stuff does 20bucks buy? When I did my passengerside and driver-side mounts, I just cut out the rubber. Like se-riusb14 said, the bolt hole is held in place by metal. I found that out trying to drill out the rubber with a drill press. It was a bitch digging out the rubber. A torch to just burn all that stuff out might be a better idea.
-patchy
I found out the same way. I tried drilling and the bit wouldn't go any further than halfway. Cut the rubber out and found the metal inside. If you torch it, do it outside. Stinks like ghetto stank.(i.e. really really bad) :)
 

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I love Katamari
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I'm doing the same thing you are right now but w/ 80 duro putty. My suggestion to you is to bypass the rubber and just sawzall the steel ring most of the way then hacksaw it clean (so you don't cut the Al mount). I spent a good 2 hrs. dicking around with utility knives, saw blades and flatheads trying to cut the rubber out - don't waste your time like I did.

and congrats to you for trying something different - yeah Prothanes are easier, but not for everyone. Good luck
 

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utahnissans.com
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
FIRE FIRE FIRE!!!! 30 minutes, some gas (race gas) and a drywall saw and it was completely gutted.


I cleaned it up a little, tomorrow I will be ready to pour in the Urethane. :)
 

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Bennitto Mallito said:
To anybody that has done this I was wondering if you think it would be possible to just cut out all of the inside of this motor mount and fill it in with 94A Liquid urethane.

This has been done before. Someone had pictures posted on a web site about a year ago. They actually cut a template in a piece of wood to locate the steel rod that runs through the center of the mount.

Your method should work too, as long as you're able to line up the steel rod so that the bolt will line up when it's all bolted down. Filling the damaged mount without removing the rubber is only a temporary fix in my experience. I'm interested to read about your results.
 
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