Although I don't own a 200, my understanding is that camber is non-adjustable (although you can get some good camber by lowering the car), but toe is still adjustable.
Therefore, you'd still benefit from a 4 wheel alignment, especially because extremes of toe will quickly kill your tires (as my A509s sitting in the garage will attest - too much toe-out, 1 inch of inner tread missing, after only two oil changes worth of driving).
you can also slot the struts, or when you put your shocks and springs in, tighten down the inside bolt first (on the strut tower) and that will give you a little more + camber, but with the pro kits, I do not think that you will really need any kind of adjustment, but an alignment (after the suspention settles)
So how long/many miles until the suspension "settles?"
And since I am getting my springs at the end of this week and not getting the AGX's for 3-4 weeks, and new tires in 5 weeks, would it be so bad just to slap the Pro Kits on my stock struts (29k miles) for a few weeks without an alignment, then after getting the AGX's and letting the suspension settle, then getting the alignment? Or would it just not be worth the hassle and waste my tires/struts too much? I mean I will be getting rid of the tires and struts in several weeks anyways.
I think that doing it this way will help me understand the difference in spring rates vs. damping rates in how your suspension reacts to changes in each one as opposed to doing it all at once and seeing just one change. So there's educational value here as well.
And could someone recommend a spring compressor kit? Brand, where to buy, etc. I've used one before that just KILLED my arms and hands as I had to use a box end wrench and just move the nut up little by little. Are there easier ones to use?
Last thing for this post - when I changed the struts on my old car, I compressed them before removing the strut assemblies from the car. Ya'll think it's easier that way or just get them out of the wheel wells first?
On second thought maybe those three weeks will be annoying because possibly the alignment might be pulling to one side which will be more annoying than worth it for the "learning experience" and I will probably try to do some cornering manuevers which might be dangerous if the alignment is off and the car might react strangely.
But when I replaced the struts on my old car the time from when I bolted it all back up to when I got the alignment done, all I remember is the steering feeling a bit loose, not really pulling to one side or anything.
I dunno. Need second opinions on all this tired of revolving around my very incomplete knowledge.
Actually you don't get any camber. The rear is a straight beam that teters like a see-saw. Its more complicated than that it also move up and down but thats the basic idea. The rear hubs are connected solid to it and don't piviot like the fronts when lowered.
My car has -1.3 deg left rear and -1.2 deg rite rear. It was like that when it was stock also. Factory camber spec for the rear is -1.75 to -.25 deg.
A word of caution. Wait until you have all the suspension components before you do the install. Then do the install and drive around w/o an alignment. when you get the new tires do the alignment. All the instructions are on my page.
Naji Dahi, PhD, http://www.geocities.com/n_dahi
98 SE-R: PR CAI, HS G3 Header, JWT S3 Cams, Timing @ 18, PS Short Shifter,
Fr/Rr STBs, Pro-Kits/KYB-AGXs/ST Bars, AD22VF/Axxis Pads/SS Lines,
UR 4-Pulleys, Volk TE-37/Potenza RE-71 205/50ZR15.
Did you get prokits or sportlines?
If you get an alignment now it won't change after you get new tires. Even if your woried about it most shops give a 6 month 6k mile alignment warrenty. You can tell them to recheck it when you have the new treds put on and if its out they will change it no charge. At least thats what NTB dose around here.
I would rather not drive for two weeks w/o an alignment IMHO.
I have been having a real headache with my Check engine light for the last month. I am getting code for Cylinder 1 misfire. I have changed the spark plugs, Cap and Rotor, and spark plug wires. The car never "feels" like it misses, and seems to be running great. It is periodic, it will stay...
i just bought a set of second hand jwt s4 cams for my sr20, but i don't have the instalation sheet of the cams.
I want to degree the cams with an adjustable cam gear so i need the specs from the cams to do so.
Is there anybody who has this sheet (picture) for me?
The jwt website i can,t...
Am Converting My Sr20de to + T just wondering if anyone has any pics of location and size and measurements on the hole in the fire wall for the clutch pedal?
Also location of where i put the slave cylinder and lines etc
That would be much appreciated