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Discussion Starter #1
my front tires for my b13 is butterflying and i was looking into getting the eibach camber kit(bolts). i just want to know if eibach camber kit will work. my car is dropped about 2.0 in. in the front and 1.7 in the rear.
 

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Dreamin' of VVL
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It's probably not camber, but toe that is causing your tire wear. As for camber bolts, don't use them, as they will slip, because they are too small a diameter to get tight enough to hold. If you need more camber adjustment get camber plates, or some 7/16" grade 8 bolts and replace the factory 12mm one's.
 

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Drinking The H Juice Now
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i don't have camber bolts but used 7/16 bolts to get 2* static camber on my car with Hypercos.. problem was after an autocross the right side would slip a little and i'd have to go back and re-align.. finally took a suggestion and put two small tack welds on the strut ears and knuckle.. will find out in a week if that does the trick.. alos tried Loctite Green along with the the tack welds.. we'll see...
 

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Is an SE-R/VE a VE-R?
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So far, the camber bolts have held on my Hyperco/AGX setup, but Kojima agrees with Johnand. NOW, Johnand, do you know if the GC plates will sit on top of the AGX's okay (AND leave enough thread for the Stillen fstb)? I've heard they'll only sit on top of GC's coilovers.
 

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Dreamin' of VVL
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jerryeads said:
So far, the camber bolts have held on my Hyperco/AGX setup, but Kojima agrees with Johnand. NOW, Johnand, do you know if the GC plates will sit on top of the AGX's okay (AND leave enough thread for the Stillen fstb)? I've heard they'll only sit on top of GC's coilovers.
No, Ground Control Camber/Caster plates will only work with GC coilovers. They will not work with standard struts.

I am currently working with a shop/designer to produce some GC type camber/caster plates for use with standard struts.

Your only option for camber plates are the Stillen/Cusco camber plates. These work well for camber adjustment, but they reduce suspension travel, as they mount under the strut tower.
 

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Dreamin' of VVL
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BigB said:
i don't have camber bolts but used 7/16 bolts to get 2* static camber on my car with Hypercos.. problem was after an autocross the right side would slip a little and i'd have to go back and re-align.. finally took a suggestion and put two small tack welds on the strut ears and knuckle.. will find out in a week if that does the trick.. alos tried Loctite Green along with the the tack welds.. we'll see...
What are you torquing the bolts to? I am running the 7/16" bolts for a few months now, and they are staying put, so far. I torque them to 90 ft/lbs. Though, I haven't been to an autocross yet.

I found a source for aircraft grade 9 bolts. These can be torqued to 140ft/lbs. I may try those if the grade 8's slip.
 

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i used camber bolts on my b13 xe after i dropped it 2" with lowering springs. before the camber bolts i went through 3 pairs of front tires in like 3 months. after the bolts, the front tires would last like a year.
 

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Drinking The H Juice Now
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johnand said:
What are you torquing the bolts to? I am running the 7/16" bolts for a few months now, and they are staying put, so far. I torque them to 90 ft/lbs. Though, I haven't been to an autocross yet.

I found a source for aircraft grade 9 bolts. These can be torqued to 140ft/lbs. I may try those if the grade 8's slip.
torquing well over 150ft/lbs. it was not the bolts slipping it was the ears of the strut slipping inside the knuckle. just not enough tension in that area to hold them.. they were fine on the street but once i got out on course they would slip about a 1/2 degree throwing toe way off..
 

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I am going through the same thing...I was considering widening the hole on the knuckle and using lock washers and giving a range of adjustment, but the 7/16" bolts seem like a better idea. Do you adjust toe by the tie rod?
 

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I'm going to drill out the hole. The smaller bolt thing just doesn't seem as safe to me given how hard I drive (autocross, track day, late for class) sometimes and the size of potholes (read: craters) in the Ohio roads. I'll prolly drill it out about a quarter inch on both sides of the hole. Any suggestions as to how much I should drill it out or how large the range of adjustment will be for enlarging the hole a certain amount?
 

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Dreamin' of VVL
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gottabfast said:
I'm going to drill out the hole. The smaller bolt thing just doesn't seem as safe to me given how hard I drive (autocross, track day, late for class) sometimes and the size of potholes (read: craters) in the Ohio roads. I'll prolly drill it out about a quarter inch on both sides of the hole. Any suggestions as to how much I should drill it out or how large the range of adjustment will be for enlarging the hole a certain amount?
Don't bother drilling them out. Just use the 7/16" bolts suggested above. They are only slightly smaller then the 12mm, about .035", but they can be torqued the same as the OEM one's.
 

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The Serbaninator
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anyone care to explain this with pics? I've got nasty negative camber up front due to sprint springs and I'd like to prevent that premature tire wear....
 

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I was playing around with the stress the bolt will see. At 950 lbs, which is of course the worst case scenario, the 7/16" bolt will see 900 more psi than the 12 mm bolt. I think I'd rather just drill out the hole on the knuckle. I'll post pics later this week when I do it. It basically just enlarging the top hole on the knuckle where the strut bolts to it. By doing this you can change the angle of the knuckle which will allow the adjustment of camber. You do need to reset toe afterward though.
 

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Drive it like ya stole it
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IIRC the early 91 SE-R's used a smaller bolt which can be used in the later SE-R's for camber adjustment. I'll look up part numbers later.
 
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